Dave,
As you are one of the most proficient posters on this forum, I am amazed that you have contracted this out!
Dave
As you are one of the most proficient posters on this forum, I am amazed that you have contracted this out!
Dave
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Yes, it is cheating a bit, isn't it. The selling point was 3D printing waxes for lost wax castings as a way to make the curved reversing guides. That sort of thing is hard to make just using hand tools.
As for the crankshaft, I've made two but wasn't entirely happy with the glued assembly - having valiantly failed in an attempt to silver solder one of them.
Dave.
As for the crankshaft, I've made two but wasn't entirely happy with the glued assembly - having valiantly failed in an attempt to silver solder one of them.
Dave.
The completed (bar painting) 11B was lost in the recent outage so here it is:
Since then I have competed the chassis of a Gladiator 8F. This goes together well but clearances are five eighths of naff all particularly between the con rod and the expansion link. Bob Alderman built one and supplied the instructions for the kit. He got around this by rivetting the eccentric rod to the link, but it is possible to pin it between the forked ends. You need to ensure that the con rod is hard against the coupling rod at the driving wheel. There is also the usual issue of clearance between the front coupling rod boss and the crosshead. Threaded crankpin bushes are essential on at least the leading two axles and these are supplied with the kit.
Dave
Since then I have competed the chassis of a Gladiator 8F. This goes together well but clearances are five eighths of naff all particularly between the con rod and the expansion link. Bob Alderman built one and supplied the instructions for the kit. He got around this by rivetting the eccentric rod to the link, but it is possible to pin it between the forked ends. You need to ensure that the con rod is hard against the coupling rod at the driving wheel. There is also the usual issue of clearance between the front coupling rod boss and the crosshead. Threaded crankpin bushes are essential on at least the leading two axles and these are supplied with the kit.
Dave
A start has been made on the B1. I know that the frames on this kit - both loco and tender - are rather wide. When I built a tender for the K1 I found that I had to file the faces of the axle bushes so that the wheels would turn. For the loco the choices are to do the same, reduce the width of the frame spacers or the potential solution I am going to try: invert the axle bushes and saw/file to reduce the width. If you reduce the width of the spacers then you need to pack out the cylinders. That option is no longer possible so it will be something done with the bushes.
Here is the current state of the frames:
I think that the large spacer at the front (2 in the instructions) should possibly have had an additional fold so that the very front was vertical. That isn't present to I sawed back the overhang at the front which would otherwise interfere with the footplate. Missing at present is spacer 7, another large piece that fits between the centre and rear driver. The instructions note that it will likely interfere with any motor - gearbox fitting and will need cutting back. I have left it out until I fit the motor and we see how much space we have. There are slots in the frames for fitting, but no tabs on the spacer. There are overlays to fit but these are quite open around the axle positions and will not interfere with the bushes. Additional holes have been drilled for the pick ups.
The footplate is an exercise in origami.
This is folded from a single piece. Bending the valences down is not easy. I had scribed the fold to make it easier but found that my hold and fold is not big enough to do it and the bending bars could not hold securely. I think if I ever build one of these again I will continue to score the fold line until the valence drop off or saw the valence in two and fold in two halves, making good the joint with solder. There are overlays to add on the top of the footplate which will result in the valences being correctly offset from the edge. These overlays would also form a good base for the valences if they are removed and soldered in place.
I found that the folding and adjustment required at the front end resulted in the parts separating and had to be soldered back together. An irritation. I need to add the locating nuts and main overlays. I may also add the curved footplate parts so that the strength of teh footplate is built up.
Here is the current state of the frames:
I think that the large spacer at the front (2 in the instructions) should possibly have had an additional fold so that the very front was vertical. That isn't present to I sawed back the overhang at the front which would otherwise interfere with the footplate. Missing at present is spacer 7, another large piece that fits between the centre and rear driver. The instructions note that it will likely interfere with any motor - gearbox fitting and will need cutting back. I have left it out until I fit the motor and we see how much space we have. There are slots in the frames for fitting, but no tabs on the spacer. There are overlays to fit but these are quite open around the axle positions and will not interfere with the bushes. Additional holes have been drilled for the pick ups.
The footplate is an exercise in origami.
This is folded from a single piece. Bending the valences down is not easy. I had scribed the fold to make it easier but found that my hold and fold is not big enough to do it and the bending bars could not hold securely. I think if I ever build one of these again I will continue to score the fold line until the valence drop off or saw the valence in two and fold in two halves, making good the joint with solder. There are overlays to add on the top of the footplate which will result in the valences being correctly offset from the edge. These overlays would also form a good base for the valences if they are removed and soldered in place.
I found that the folding and adjustment required at the front end resulted in the parts separating and had to be soldered back together. An irritation. I need to add the locating nuts and main overlays. I may also add the curved footplate parts so that the strength of teh footplate is built up.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
I picked up one of these kits secondhand a while back. Seeing yours all nicely built makes me think I should get on with building mine.
Please can you post some pics when yours is back from the paintshop?
Thanks
Mike
Thank you. Yes I will post again when painted.
Dave
Overlays for frame sides and springs added and axle bushes fitted inside out and filed down to give minimal sideplay on front and centre axles with a bit more on the rear.
Coupling rods laminated, bosses added to centre and rear. There are three sets provided plus overlays but I think that is overkill so at this stage I have just sweated the overlays to one set. If space available I may consider adding an etch each side. However, first I will need to investigate clearances behind the crosshead. The instructions say that you will need to insert the crankpin screw from the front. I have gone for 10BA screws and threaded bushes. The good news is that the coupling rods and axle centres match so I immediately had a free rolling chassis.
Next up will be motor fixing and pick ups. I may use PFS pickups as there is not much clearance between the backs of the wheels and the frames and I suspect that the plastic surround of the Slaters pick up may be a bit proud. I am hoping to take on the PFS pick ups from Geoff.
Also need to get the cylinders made up to check clearances.
Dave
Coupling rods laminated, bosses added to centre and rear. There are three sets provided plus overlays but I think that is overkill so at this stage I have just sweated the overlays to one set. If space available I may consider adding an etch each side. However, first I will need to investigate clearances behind the crosshead. The instructions say that you will need to insert the crankpin screw from the front. I have gone for 10BA screws and threaded bushes. The good news is that the coupling rods and axle centres match so I immediately had a free rolling chassis.
Next up will be motor fixing and pick ups. I may use PFS pickups as there is not much clearance between the backs of the wheels and the frames and I suspect that the plastic surround of the Slaters pick up may be a bit proud. I am hoping to take on the PFS pick ups from Geoff.
Also need to get the cylinders made up to check clearances.
Dave
After a reasonably brisk start work has slowed down considerably on the B1 build as work has got in the way. As I write this I am sitting in Heathrow getting ready to board a plane for a three day trip to Taiwan. Yawn.
I have fitted my usual yoke as a motor mount and have used PFS pick ups. I have also built the bogie, filing back the outer faces of the bushes to get the wheels to turn.
I have also constructed the cylinders which at present are just loosely attached with 8BA screws and nuts.
I then decided to move onto the tender as I want a clear run at fitting the wobbly bits on the frames. I inverted the bushes to get clearance. I also remembered from having built one of these tenders before that it would be better to fit the handrail knobs and rear steps before fitting the slides to the footplate. You need to clean up the locating pillars for the handrail knobs at the front end and this is very difficult one the tender front is on place. What I should have done is fit the front knobs then emboss the rivets but that is a job for next time. The bits go together reasonably well but you do need to shorten the water scoop to stop it interfering with the brake beam.
Just one lousy photo for now. I'll post more when I get back.
I have fitted my usual yoke as a motor mount and have used PFS pick ups. I have also built the bogie, filing back the outer faces of the bushes to get the wheels to turn.
I have also constructed the cylinders which at present are just loosely attached with 8BA screws and nuts.
I then decided to move onto the tender as I want a clear run at fitting the wobbly bits on the frames. I inverted the bushes to get clearance. I also remembered from having built one of these tenders before that it would be better to fit the handrail knobs and rear steps before fitting the slides to the footplate. You need to clean up the locating pillars for the handrail knobs at the front end and this is very difficult one the tender front is on place. What I should have done is fit the front knobs then emboss the rivets but that is a job for next time. The bits go together reasonably well but you do need to shorten the water scoop to stop it interfering with the brake beam.
Just one lousy photo for now. I'll post more when I get back.
Tender 99% done. The front brake pull rods cannot be fitted just yet, nor can the frame cross pieces which are just held in by good fortune for now. The issue is being able to get the tender bogie out for painting. Lots and lots of pieces in this kit. Awaiting clean up.
Back to the loco tomorrow.
Back to the loco tomorrow.
No photos tonight, but at long last I have a running B1 chassis! Not the easiest build by a long way with a couple of hidden bear traps for the unwary. These traps are in the valve gear. It is designed to be made up with forked joints. It is essential to form these as otherwise the parts will be too long. The problem is that there are no tell-tales on the etched parts to indicate where to make the bends, so there is a lot of guess work. The main issue centres around the expansion links. These are formed from 8 parts pinned together and are designed to accommodate the radius rod which has to be assembled from three parts with a slot to take the middle section of the expansion link. I found that I had not made the slot long enough which resulted in insufficient for and aft rocking of the link. The radius rod has a continuous rear section that should remain flat with the loop for the expansion link formed from the front laminates.
The advantage of this is that you can set the valve gear in any position. It's just a pain to set up.
I'll try and add photos tomorrow which hopefully will make it clearer.
The advantage of this is that you can set the valve gear in any position. It's just a pain to set up.
I'll try and add photos tomorrow which hopefully will make it clearer.