John’s workbench - a miscellany.

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
My progress blog can be read through this link, but ut appears to paste well into this format:

I've been trying to avoid having the Mill and its sidings placed parallel to the board edges. I feel that an angle gives the scene a slightly more realistic appearance.

IMG_5655.jpg
So I'm aiming at something like this, here the Mill complex is set about 10 degrees off the axis of the board. This makes the design of the off-scene tracks more complex, but to be honest I'm beginning to think that a simple fiddle-stick/cassette might suffice here.

The Finetrax point base is evident. This kit went together very well, I made one stupid error, but I think I got away with it, and we should see progress with track-laying very soon.

I'm also confident that the 08 may be running in time to allow testing of the new track shortly too.

I've also been progressing the aperture layer of the Mill and a couple of other projects.
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
It's amazing that the IBG Scammell kit arrives in a huge box, almost A4 in plan, and about an inch deep. Yet, when you commence the build, the parts fit into a small mint tin, even the chassis!

While lying these parts out I spotted a glaring issue- the counterweight frame on the end of the chassis is fitted upside down! I can only think that having had it all lined up for glue, I must have dropped it and that I inverted the chassis during the next fitting.

I have now righted this issue and the cab has been started.

I'm trying to save the smaller detail parts until as late as possible to avoid loss or damage during the remaining build. Some of the cab interior parts are very flimsy-looking etched pieces that require folding - seat frames and so on. Another stage requiring consideration is whether to hold major components back to be pre-painted, such as the engine and transmission.

I still haven't decided what the paint scheme is going to be….






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AJC

Western Thunderer
Interesting: I can't really find an excuse for a Scammell, but I do have a Bedford QL from this source (it's going to become a Lime spreader which I could find a use for, as diorama fodder for the layout). They're quite nice kits and, in the case of the QL, make for an interesting contrast to the relatively more recent Airfix tooling - not the refuelling set! I haven't got beyond the chassis cab yet: got distracted...

Adam
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
Interesting: I can't really find an excuse for a Scammell, but I do have a Bedford QL from this source (it's going to become a Lime spreader which I could find a use for, as diorama fodder for the layout). They're quite nice kits and, in the case of the QL, make for an interesting contrast to the relatively more recent Airfix tooling - not the refuelling set! I haven't got beyond the chassis cab yet: got distracted...

Adam
This IS my distraction! (until then next one!)
 
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2mm

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
Does the team think? No, stop it….

I have to reduce the extended axle on 6 off these wheels. They have to be reduced down to less than 1mm. Do you think the rather sketchy work holder will cope? I think there will be too much flex to go down to such a tiny diameter.
I’m a bit wary and don’t want to destroy perfectly good wheels….IMG_5864.jpeg
 

Bob Essex

Active Member
I take it you don't have a collet chuck and your ordinary 3-jaw is not capable of holdng work down to 1.5mm dia John? (the rear stub dia). Personally I wouldn't want to do it like this. Some drill chucks can be quite true but aren't terribly good at holding short lengths of material, they are meant for holding a shank over the entire jaw length for positive grip. The wheel could well pop out under the machining pressures and then make the job that much harder if the extended axle got chewed up in the process.

Bob
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
I take it you don't have a collet chuck and your ordinary 3-jaw is not capable of holdng work down to 1.5mm dia John? (the rear stub dia). Personally I wouldn't want to do it like this. Some drill chucks can be quite true but aren't terribly good at holding short lengths of material, they are meant for holding a shank over the entire jaw length for positive grip. The wheel could well pop out under the machining pressures and then make the job that much harder if the extended axle got chewed up in the process.

Bob
All correct Bob, I’m minded to not do it and buy the newer model wheels, save these for another application

John
 

Bob Essex

Active Member
All correct Bob, I’m minded to not do it and buy the newer model wheels, save these for another application

John
Yes, the only fly in the ointment is that you'll face the same problem whenever you use the wheels as there isn't much else you can use O/F wheels of this size for, only O/F locos really. They are a bit too big for use as carry wheels sadly. You're probably the first to try using these Mk6 wheel cranks on Mk5 wheels. Good to see you're not giving up on the 08 though, they are worth the effort when you do get there.

Bob
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
I take it you don't have a collet chuck and your ordinary 3-jaw is not capable of holdng work down to 1.5mm dia John? (the rear stub dia). Personally I wouldn't want to do it like this. Some drill chucks can be quite true but aren't terribly good at holding short lengths of material, they are meant for holding a shank over the entire jaw length for positive grip. The wheel could well pop out under the machining pressures and then make the job that much harder if the extended axle got chewed up in the process.

Bob
All correct Bob, I’m minded to not do it and by the newer model wheels
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
I have today glued down a strip of cork wide enough for

IMG_5865.jpg

the double track siding in the Mill and set at the desired angle.


The turnout is ready for the switch rails to be soldered to the tire bar pins.

So with the cork down we have a datum and can get on with laying things and making more models!
 

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
Doesn’t look like much, but the turnout is built and the wiring has been added. The next stage is to glue the assembly down, but before then I need to think hard about how to control the turnout.

The general idea is to use wire in tube, so I need to ponder the run of the tube because the fiddle yard extension cantilevers under the turnout.



IMG_5946.jpg
Anyway distractions have had the better of me this last well or so…

The Scammell is progressing well, and something else arrived too - a Lodekka.

IMG_6012.jpg

IMG_6010.jpg
 
Progress report

John57sharp

Western Thunderer
The IBG 1:76 Scammell Pioneer - Its coming on nicely.

A great kit with very many parts, a lot of which will be in the “I know they are there” category once building is complete.

I've had a few issues of my own doing, failing to read and/or comprehend the instructions properly, a and of course, I have snapped a couple of delicate parts, including the exhaust, which is actually the worst illustrated part in the overwise excellent booklet. The part is first shown as attached in the early engine block build section, without including it in the exploded view. It is actually attached very near the end of the build, but he part is angled such that it appears to be a straight rod in the exploded diagram. Anyway I had to fashion one out of brass rod in the end.




IMG_6095.jpg


Also…

An LMS design clasp brake underframe for a fruit van. The kit is by Rumney Models and I'm using the guitar string wire springing as supplied.

IMG_6103.jpg
Overview - or rather underview?

IMG_6101.jpg
Brake rigging in construction

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Parts so far
Highly recommended kits these, just take your time and make sure you understand the instructions.



 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Interesting: I can't really find an excuse for a Scammell, but I do have a Bedford QL from this source (it's going to become a Lime spreader which I could find a use for, as diorama fodder for the layout). They're quite nice kits and, in the case of the QL, make for an interesting contrast to the relatively more recent Airfix tooling - not the refuelling set! I haven't got beyond the chassis cab yet: got distracted...

Adam

I think I've solved that problem.
I will incorporate a transport cafe scene and a haulier's yard - that way a specific interest and anything else happily fits in!
Just the timeshift dilemma to resolve now.....

These kits do look nice - and good use of etchings too.
 
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