7mm Martin Finney 7mm Duchess
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
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- duchess lms martin finney stanier
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Richard,
Using microflame with whitemetal.
I start by adding some flux to the join and taking a smallish blob of 100 degree solder to it, either with a conventional iron, or by cutting a section and resting it on the join. I flux again, and then waft the microflame directly on the brass/whitemetal join from above. I keep the microflame moving, and use it a bit further away than normal. I am looking to heat up both the whitemetal and the brass. Once it is hot enough, you will see the solder wick quickly into the joint. Remove the microflame immediately and hold the piece still until it cools. The same technique can be used to reposition the piece if necessary.
It sounds high risk, but if you watch the solder closely, it's not a problem. I think I have only lost one piece through carelessness in the umpteen years I have been doing this. If you have any doubts, use superglue!
Richard
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Richard Spoors
Western Thunderer
Richard, very helpful, thanks.
Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Pleased someone else has been using that technique for a while Richard, works wonders for me too.
My slight variation is I put a small dod of solder directly under the casting footprint on the brass, then microflame the casting, then on to the adjacent brass to conduct the heat in. Makes a lovely job of the coal pusher!
My slight variation is I put a small dod of solder directly under the casting footprint on the brass, then microflame the casting, then on to the adjacent brass to conduct the heat in. Makes a lovely job of the coal pusher!
richard_t
Western Thunderer
You may have missed the boat, Mark Wood has this on his website (under news):
RETIREMENT:
I have now ceased to take on any new orders for pattern making and for machining castings.
Castings will continue to be supplied from stock or from waxes from existing moulds.
I have now ceased to take on any new orders for pattern making and for machining castings.
Castings will continue to be supplied from stock or from waxes from existing moulds.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Yes, that would be a good use of the technique. Cliff's use for the coal pusher illustrates how good a method it is where you can't readily get an iron in to heat the brass in a confined space. The only time you have to be especially careful is if there is some projection on the whitemetal casting that is very thin.
Richard
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
This one was built with a micro torch, soldering iron only for tinning although I seam to remember I also used Carrs solder cream aswell
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
The rear bulkhead has been completed.
The tender builds the destreamlined, or the never streamlined version - mine is one of the latter. It's just a case of following the instructions carefully. The only departures from the instructions are that I used 1mm o/d tube instead of rod to make the steam pusher exhausts, and I added 2 clips to the lubricator runs back right. They came from the very useful separate etch that Martin did of all sorts of clips.
Richard
The rear bulkhead has been completed.
The tender builds the destreamlined, or the never streamlined version - mine is one of the latter. It's just a case of following the instructions carefully. The only departures from the instructions are that I used 1mm o/d tube instead of rod to make the steam pusher exhausts, and I added 2 clips to the lubricator runs back right. They came from the very useful separate etch that Martin did of all sorts of clips.
Richard
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Superb Richard,
I have one of these tucked away so this is of especial interest to me
I have one of these tucked away so this is of especial interest to me
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Rob,
Yeah, me too. It's just that mine hasn't got this tender!
Steph
Yeah, me too. It's just that mine hasn't got this tender!
Steph
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Me too! De-streamlined with ladder for 6240 City of Coventry.
Spent a whole afternoon on the S7 stand at Railex a few years ago getting those 0.3mm oil pipes into shape.
I've done the front end except for that coal watering pipe, many bends on different planes.
Very impressive build, Richard, and I will be looking to the rest with anticipation.
Ken
Spent a whole afternoon on the S7 stand at Railex a few years ago getting those 0.3mm oil pipes into shape.
I've done the front end except for that coal watering pipe, many bends on different planes.
Very impressive build, Richard, and I will be looking to the rest with anticipation.
Ken
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thanks Ken,
I did the watering pipe in 3 sections. Apart from the obvious curved section at the top between the 2 unions, the longer downwards run I split at the fallplate level. If you look carefully, you can see a butt joint between the vertical and horizontal sections where it goes through the hole in the fallplate. I couldn't see how to do it otherwise, without more frustration than I was prepared to experience.
Richard
I did the watering pipe in 3 sections. Apart from the obvious curved section at the top between the 2 unions, the longer downwards run I split at the fallplate level. If you look carefully, you can see a butt joint between the vertical and horizontal sections where it goes through the hole in the fallplate. I couldn't see how to do it otherwise, without more frustration than I was prepared to experience.
Richard
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Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
The sides have now been completed. The bends on the sides to match the bulkheads have to be accurate, and the front return is a little tricky as there isn't much of it to hold. There is some rivetting to punch out on the edges which in reality would have held on the beading, and then the beading to put on. That's a bit testing as there are lots of compound curves at the front end, and of course the half-round beading doesn't want to bend in the plane you want to bend it in! I used 60/40 solder for the beading as I didn't want to run the risk of it desoldering when I eventually come to put all the tender sections together. There are 4 ribs on the inside of each side, and while one side fitted perfectly, the other side needed them all adjusting a little to fit nicely. That means of course that the bends in the sides are not quite identical, but I can't see the difference with the naked eye.
Since there are a series of half etch lines on the inside to help form the bends, I rubbed down the outside to eliminate any witness marks.
Tender rear next, then the coal chute and final assembly.
Richard
The sides have now been completed. The bends on the sides to match the bulkheads have to be accurate, and the front return is a little tricky as there isn't much of it to hold. There is some rivetting to punch out on the edges which in reality would have held on the beading, and then the beading to put on. That's a bit testing as there are lots of compound curves at the front end, and of course the half-round beading doesn't want to bend in the plane you want to bend it in! I used 60/40 solder for the beading as I didn't want to run the risk of it desoldering when I eventually come to put all the tender sections together. There are 4 ribs on the inside of each side, and while one side fitted perfectly, the other side needed them all adjusting a little to fit nicely. That means of course that the bends in the sides are not quite identical, but I can't see the difference with the naked eye.
Since there are a series of half etch lines on the inside to help form the bends, I rubbed down the outside to eliminate any witness marks.
Tender rear next, then the coal chute and final assembly.
Richard
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Faultless as usual Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thanks Warren,
The rear of the tender is a pretty simple affair, just the step treads and a replacement Peter Roles lamp iron. It looks as though there should be some rivets to punch out on the rear/footplate brackets at the bottom, but there aren't, odd though it looks. I had to check that with my sources having spent time looking for riveted overlays that were (correctly) not included.
The coal shute/tool tunnel is folded from a single etch and then attached to the front bulkhead. Note the slots for the ribs. All seems very accurate.
At this stage, I have not soldered the right hand side of the chute/tunnel as I need first to check it against the right hand tender side for fit. I can't do this properly until the front and rear bulkheads and the chute are attached to the left side of the tender.
Here the rear bulkhead has been soldered to the left hand side. I took great pains to ensure that all was at 90 degrees. And just to prove I do use solder.....I used 145 to make the join using my normal quite large bit, which gets a lot of heat in quickly. Any excess is then drawn away from the join leaving minimal cleaning up on the outside faces.
Richard
The rear of the tender is a pretty simple affair, just the step treads and a replacement Peter Roles lamp iron. It looks as though there should be some rivets to punch out on the rear/footplate brackets at the bottom, but there aren't, odd though it looks. I had to check that with my sources having spent time looking for riveted overlays that were (correctly) not included.
The coal shute/tool tunnel is folded from a single etch and then attached to the front bulkhead. Note the slots for the ribs. All seems very accurate.
At this stage, I have not soldered the right hand side of the chute/tunnel as I need first to check it against the right hand tender side for fit. I can't do this properly until the front and rear bulkheads and the chute are attached to the left side of the tender.
Here the rear bulkhead has been soldered to the left hand side. I took great pains to ensure that all was at 90 degrees. And just to prove I do use solder.....I used 145 to make the join using my normal quite large bit, which gets a lot of heat in quickly. Any excess is then drawn away from the join leaving minimal cleaning up on the outside faces.
Richard
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Nice work Richard. I have recently unearthed a JLTRT Hawksworth tender that I want to crack on with, but the beading around the edges is represented by half-etching away the main body sheeting. I wish to remove this somewhat flat beading and replace it with a suitable half-round profile. Was yours already in the kit, or sourced from elsewhere please?
Regards
Dan
I have recently unearthed a JLTRT Hawksworth tender that I want to crack on with, but the beading around the edges is represented by half-etching away the main body sheeting. I wish to remove this somewhat flat beading and replace it with a suitable half-round profile. Was yours already in the kit, or sourced from elsewhere please?Regards
Dan
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
Nice work Richard.
Regards
Dan
If you need half round wire try Metalsmiths. They do a lot of useful material and half round in 3 sizes I think.