warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Found this interesting picture if modelling city of Carlisle 1963 onwards. 
7mm Martin Finney 7mm Duchess
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
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- Tags
- duchess lms martin finney stanier
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Winter 63 was extremely cold, the overflow of water froze solid in minutes and the back of the tender was an ice rink. The holes were there to drain the water away.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
The tender had been left with the sub-assemblies complete. Next was to solder the front bulkhead/coal space unit to the rear bulkhead and left side.
This all engaged with the various slots and round the ribs and required minimal soldering to get a solid bond. For example, the sides of the chute were only soldered to the side between the first and second ribs. The fit was so good that I saw no need to solder elsewhere. I used the microflame to attach the chute rear to the rear bulkhead and side, all the while checking that the rear bulkhead remained squarely attached.
Finally, I manipulated the fire iron tunnel so that it fitted closely to the right side - as good a fit as the other side - and checked that the side will properly locate with the front and rear bulkheads. It does, so I shall solder the side and rear in place to complete the box.
Richard
The tender had been left with the sub-assemblies complete. Next was to solder the front bulkhead/coal space unit to the rear bulkhead and left side.
This all engaged with the various slots and round the ribs and required minimal soldering to get a solid bond. For example, the sides of the chute were only soldered to the side between the first and second ribs. The fit was so good that I saw no need to solder elsewhere. I used the microflame to attach the chute rear to the rear bulkhead and side, all the while checking that the rear bulkhead remained squarely attached.
Finally, I manipulated the fire iron tunnel so that it fitted closely to the right side - as good a fit as the other side - and checked that the side will properly locate with the front and rear bulkheads. It does, so I shall solder the side and rear in place to complete the box.
Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Nice work Richard.I have recently unearthed a JLTRT Hawksworth tender that I want to crack on with, but the beading around the edges is represented by half-etching away the main body sheeting. I wish to remove this somewhat flat beading and replace it with a suitable half-round profile. Was yours already in the kit, or sourced from elsewhere please?
Regards
Dan
Hi Dan,
I missed this, being otherwise occupied for the last couple of days
The beading was included in the kit, which doesn't help you very much, but I've always kept in a supply of brass half-round wire bought from shows in coils, a few metres of 0.75mm. Looking at Eileen's Emporium, they only seem to offer the following: Brass Half Round Coiled Wire 1.2mm x 0.6mm x 1m
I suspect if you look for it at a show, you will find some.
Richard
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Hi Dan, I believe that the new Metalsmith does half round beading.
Len
Len
lankytank
Western Thunderer
Or..........
If you happen across the Metalsmith (Leeds) Ltd stand at a show (Reading, Doncaster, Guildex to name just a few), stop by, where you can choose from 0.7mm, 0.8mm or 1.0mm (why not go the whole hog & get one of each?)...............
Len, I was typing as you posted - thanks for the mention -
Barry (aka Metalsmith)
If you happen across the Metalsmith (Leeds) Ltd stand at a show (Reading, Doncaster, Guildex to name just a few), stop by, where you can choose from 0.7mm, 0.8mm or 1.0mm (why not go the whole hog & get one of each?)...............
Len, I was typing as you posted - thanks for the mention -
Barry (aka Metalsmith)
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Dan, or make your own, very simple, as seen here in post 1019 near the bottom of the page.
My 7mm dabblings | Page 51 | Western Thunder
The only problem with half round is that when you bend it, it tries to twist as it takes the path of least resistance when you form it, the depth is less than the width, for my next episode I will bend the wire in round form first to the right shape, then solder to the scrap material, in my case double sideded paxolin and file half of it away, un-solder and then it'll already be the right shape for fitting to the model. This works well for small items like cab window surrounds and cab edge beading, it might not be so practical for beading on tender sides etc.
Mick D
My 7mm dabblings | Page 51 | Western Thunder
The only problem with half round is that when you bend it, it tries to twist as it takes the path of least resistance when you form it, the depth is less than the width, for my next episode I will bend the wire in round form first to the right shape, then solder to the scrap material, in my case double sideded paxolin and file half of it away, un-solder and then it'll already be the right shape for fitting to the model. This works well for small items like cab window surrounds and cab edge beading, it might not be so practical for beading on tender sides etc.
Mick D
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Thanks to one and all for the half-round wire information - I'll be sure to get (or make some), soon.
Regards
Dan
Regards
Dan
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I made my own, according to the process to which Mickoo refers, above, but used copper rather than brass which I found to be sufficiently malleable to take curves with a minimum of twisting. Copper is available in a huge variety of thicknesses. This was on the tender for the infamous LBSCR "K". However, I like Mickoo's idea of setting out the shape for smaller items before soldering to the scrap and filing away.
Brian
Brian
re the cutouts in the tender as shown in the photo on post 61, according to the WS Loco profile book a number of 4000g tenders had them. There was apparently a problem with blocked vent holes on the tender back forming a 'lake' either overfill or rainwater which the cutout attempted to cure. An ex footplate,an once told be that they used to put house bricks down to form stepping stones in the said 'lake' when attending to the water filler, try modelling that,
John
John
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
The right hand side has been soldered on. Again the side was such a good fit, it was only soldered to the tool tunnel between the second and third ribs, and most of the soldering was undertaken from the underside. The front of the tool tunnel is a separate piece and is really awkward to form accurately. It's the only piece where I had a small gap (where it joined the front bulkhead), but it was small enough (about 0.35mm) to be filled with solder. I was then able to solder the rear on and blend in the side beading which I had left over-long.
I have also commenced attaching the coal pusher castings which are really nice, and too good to be lost under a coal load!
Home run from here.
Richard
The right hand side has been soldered on. Again the side was such a good fit, it was only soldered to the tool tunnel between the second and third ribs, and most of the soldering was undertaken from the underside. The front of the tool tunnel is a separate piece and is really awkward to form accurately. It's the only piece where I had a small gap (where it joined the front bulkhead), but it was small enough (about 0.35mm) to be filled with solder. I was then able to solder the rear on and blend in the side beading which I had left over-long.
I have also commenced attaching the coal pusher castings which are really nice, and too good to be lost under a coal load!
Home run from here.
Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
The next stage is to build the coal pusher rams and struts. This is far easier to build as a separate unit, especially as accurately fitting the struts and the 12 small pins securing them to the rams would be akin to key hole surgery over the tender top. By using a minimal amount of 100 degree solder applied to the outside of the pin, I was able to easily break any bond between pin and strut - so all the parts of the unit are articulated and will lie flat on the coal chute floor. The rams are white-metal; the light makes them look brass.
There are pins on the bottom of each ram engaging in holes in the chute floor, so, again, everything can be soldered from inside with no cleaning up.
Richard
The next stage is to build the coal pusher rams and struts. This is far easier to build as a separate unit, especially as accurately fitting the struts and the 12 small pins securing them to the rams would be akin to key hole surgery over the tender top. By using a minimal amount of 100 degree solder applied to the outside of the pin, I was able to easily break any bond between pin and strut - so all the parts of the unit are articulated and will lie flat on the coal chute floor. The rams are white-metal; the light makes them look brass.
There are pins on the bottom of each ram engaging in holes in the chute floor, so, again, everything can be soldered from inside with no cleaning up.
Richard
demu1037
Western Thunderer
Richard - do you need the 2 upper rams for your period, AFIK they were removed in BR period?
(see LMS locos vol. 11 Essery & co.)
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thanks Andy,
Truth to tell, I don't know. City of Birmingham in the Think Tank still has the upper rams, and I believe that is as it came out of BR service. My loco is Duchess of Montrose, so unless someone has concrete information about that loco, I shall fit the upper rams.
Richard
Pannier Tank
Western Thunderer
The Coal Pushers were working on 46231 Duchess of Atholl in the early sixties; I should know, I received a "Shower" when she stopped for water at Bletchley on an up train!
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi,
I have now finished the body. The coal pusher parts have been added, as have the water coal spray pipes along the top, the strips over the top of the bulkheads and the front vents, all in the coal space. The footplate has been attached, and it all slot and tabbed in well, a relief given the separate component nature of the construction, and I have added the 3 lamp irons on the footplate, again Peter Roles castings.
I've a few things to add to the chassis, but I'm nearly there.
Richard
I have now finished the body. The coal pusher parts have been added, as have the water coal spray pipes along the top, the strips over the top of the bulkheads and the front vents, all in the coal space. The footplate has been attached, and it all slot and tabbed in well, a relief given the separate component nature of the construction, and I have added the 3 lamp irons on the footplate, again Peter Roles castings.
I've a few things to add to the chassis, but I'm nearly there.
Richard