Mickoo's BR modelling

[alcazar]

The same company who made the Spencer double acting buffers found on the Gresley A3 and A4.

Moulton? They go on to make a folding bicycle?

Mick: http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//in...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52

That's where mine came from.
Have a wander round that site...some exquisite builds, diesels from MMP and a Tower Warship, plus MMP wagons, all in fantastic detail.

 

[Susie]

Moulton? They go on to make a folding bicycle?

Yep! I had one (non folding) in the 70's. The Moulton connection was the rubber suspension 'twixt frame and rear wheel!

 

[Dog Star]

Surprising how much rubber was incorporated into a steam engine:-

* rubber pads on each spring suspension bolt;
* rubber pads on each coupling hook;
* rubber pads for each intermediate drawbar (three on GWR tenders);
* rolling rings on vacuum cylinders;
* joints for vacuum pipe flanges;
* joints for water pipe flanges;
* steam heat and vacuum bags.

Anything else?

 

[Dikitriki]

Traction tyres

Coat, hat, gone

 

[Len Cattley]

Mick: http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//in...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52​

​

That's where mine came from.​

Have a wander round that site...some exquisite builds, diesels from MMP and a Tower Warship, plus MMP wagons, all in fantastic detail.​

​

​

Hi Mick that's where I bought mine from (two bottles and I am still on the first one) and as Alcazar say's there as some beautiful model there.​

Len​

 

[Locomodels]

Traction tyres

Coat, hat, gone

Quite right Richard, think Michelin and French railcars. Although they were petrol or diesel not steam.

 

[Ragstone Andy]

Mick

As promised, some details shots.

Streamline Non Corridor
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ycojjwvwwo2r9xp/AACm5p-GAdKNYOOG4KOVxZ3Za

1928 Corridor
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5wc9yaiy697ge6/AAD5YhLXuPaC9540HbbRug4Fa

Note - both tenders are fitted for ground level water filling, this is not original being a mod for main line running in the preservation era.

Regards

Andy

 

[Dog Star]

Surprising how much rubber was incorporated into a steam engine...

Traction tyres

You have to be of a certain age to contemplate such an idea... and possibly a 4mm modeller.

 

[mickoo]

Hi Mick,

Your 'snubbing blocks' are actually Spencer Auxillary Springs. They are an akwardly shaped steel casting with a rubber block inside at the top, with a steel pressure plate at the bottom on which bears the nut attaching it to the suspension rod from the end of the spring. The nut is kept in place with a shaped keeper that is screwed onto the plate. The works drawing is 0/341. There are eight items all together in each spring. They were designed and produced by the Spencer Moulton Company of Bradford-on-Avon, and act as shock absorbers to the main leaf-springs

All the best,

Susie

Not just a big washer then

Thanks for the info, makes sense to have some sort of resilient fixing here to reduce shock loading on the fixing plate.

 

[alcazar]

Are you going to remove your solid ones and fabricate small ones that work?

Or perhaps not.......

 

[mickoo]

A

Mick

As promised, some details shots.

Streamline Non Corridor
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ycojjwvwwo2r9xp/AACm5p-GAdKNYOOG4KOVxZ3Za

1928 Corridor
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t5wc9yaiy697ge6/AAD5YhLXuPaC9540HbbRug4Fa

Note - both tenders are fitted for ground level water filling, this is not original being a mod for main line running in the preservation era.

Regards

Andy

Andy, splendid shots, They explain things a bit better

Thanks for sharing.

 

[mickoo]

.......



Four days after blacking and sealing in an air tight container, they're just .

Some were cleaned with Meths, some with White Spirits others with a cloth, all now starting to rust, rims and axles.

The only thing I can think of is that the blacking agent has 'gone off' so what's left will be in the chemical waste at work, 2 mins after starting work tomorrow!

I'll try Birchwood Casey next as this lot (Carrs) is just rubbish.

 

[alcazar]

I hate to disillusion you, but I got similar with a Birchwood Casey gun blue stick.......
I'll be interested to see how yours turn out.

 

[mickoo]

I hate to disillusion you, but I got similar with a Birchwood Casey gun blue stick.......
I'll be interested to see how yours turn out.

Jeff, cheers, then I must be doing something wrong , I'll try again but use a different method, these were all left for some time with the blacking agent on and none were washed, just wiped later when I thought they were dark enough.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Oily cotton bud after the chemical blackening has dried .

For brass I use Kansa blackening agent http://www.kansacraft.co.uk/glasscatalogue/glasscatpages/pg40/4006.html
500ml bottles available, probably more economical than the railway modellers suppliers .

Col.

 

[alcazar]

I don't think I buffed mine, I will try again.

 

[mickoo]

Oily cotton bud after the chemical blackening has dried .

For brass I use Kansa blackening agent http://www.kansacraft.co.uk/glasscatalogue/glasscatpages/pg40/4006.html
500ml bottles available, probably more economical than the railway modellers suppliers .

Col.

Cheers Col, I got some brass blacking from Telford the other week, do you use the same stuff for steel wheels?.

I did wonder about a sheen of oil LOL, I'm trying a different method now where the agent is applied neat and then dropped in water about a minute later, so far the blacking is much more solid and consistent than before, seems the water reaction has a profound effect, before I just wiped the agent off and buffed.

I'm beginning to wonder if there was some agent still on there and was reacting with its self?

 

[Locomodels]

Mikoo,
I find that I get good results by using an acid dip, then a clear water wash. Dip in a neutralising solution and another clean water wash. With Birchwood Casey I use the agent neat on a cotton bud. Leave it to dry and then wash off in water. Then, like Colin, I use an oily cotton bud. The blackening is porous and seems to absorb the oil film.

A wheelset and crank axle that I made months ago has been kicking around on the work bench without a trace of rusting.

 

[Scale7JB]

Hi chaps,

Don't take this the wrong way, but I don't see where you're having an issue..

I clean the wheels with a glass fibre brush, and if I think it needs it, a wipe with some thinners, then apply neat casey blackening with a cotton bud... Leave it until you can see the metal has changed colour (almost instantly) and then wipe off the residue with some tissue..

That's all I do...

JB.

 

[Steph Dale]

Mick,
I suspect the greatest part of the problems you've been having are due to your choice of Baker's flux. With adequate washing it's fine, but I wonder if your wheels are contaminated, I which case they'll keep coming back rusty.
Steph