Mickoo's BR modelling

mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
YOU LUCKY SOnSO!!!!

I did hear Merlins yesterday, whilst out spraying the A1 tender, never thought to look up:thumbs:

I didn't know any 'stangs' were dual seat, there's a dual seat Spit over at Bentwaters, which I think is where these two are from?

Stangs, Jugs and Spits are some my all time fav aircraft, I keep eyeing up one of those 60" RC Jugs you can get, I'd love a razorback in green or a bubble top in bare aluminum;) I'll probably just end up with a 1/24 static diorama with details etc.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Mick,
Thinning the hornblocks is not a problem, and probably worth the effort. It is just worth considering how visible they'll be on the completed model; you've still got brakegear, plumbing and a coat of black paint to go in there, all of which will help disguise them.
Steph
Click to expand...

Steph, cheers, I think the rear ones need doing drastically, the others I'll probably leave TBH, there's still the tank well to fit and as you say brakes and the water scoop takes up quite a bit of space too, hooks n hose's will form an immediate eye break as well.

Oh and just noticed you can see the bloody great washers in there too, so they'll need some reduction in size as you can just see them around the wheel boss. Although it's S7 I opted to retain the original kit spacings and just added washers to stop side play, cutting and adding new spacers just seemed so much of a faff.
 
Osgood

Osgood

Western Thunderer
That's Janie and Marinell, and yes indeed - Mrs. O and I were both Lucky :)

Sorry - back to coal hods and CSB…...
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Well that didn't go well :headbang:

IMG_8427.jpg

I'm going to hazard a guess it's the second light blow over of Railmatch that has done this as the first one didn't and the coats under that were all ok.

What's most annoying is the hours that are going to be needed to strip it all off and it'll probably involve the whole tender, which is doubly annoying as the rest is pretty perfect underneath, I suppose there's some glimmer that it'll flatten down when dry, but I'm never that lucky so suspect it'll be off to Homebase for nitromors I suspect tomorrow.

Only ever had this happen once before when I sprayed gloss varnish over matt varnish on an aircraft years ago.

Apologies for the poor colour cast photo, no point wasting good bytes on something as :shit: as this;)
 
Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Great shame mate, sorry to see that...

Last time I had something similar, I had sprayed enamel gloss over slightly damp enamel weathering...

We're all the layers dry? I'm sure others here will have a far greater idea at what may have happened.

JB.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
The etch primer (wasn't impressed with the finish of this so will return to Halfords primers) was dry and so was the Halfords satin black base coat (acrylic), but I'd just put one layer of Railmatch (enamel) on and when touch dry went to add the final layer, I suspect it's the two Railmatch layers that have reacted.

Oddly it doesn't appear that the Railmatch paint is a gloss, there's no indication on the tin whether it's matt, satin or gloss but I'm guessing it's more satin than anything else.
 
Scale7JB

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Are you going to hand line the loco, or transfers?

I'd avoid halfords primer, I didn't get quite the gloss finish I was after on the L1...

JB.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Scale7JB said:
Are you going to hand line the loco, or transfers?

I'd avoid halfords primer, I didn't get quite the gloss finish I was after on the L1...

JB.
Click to expand...

I'm going to throw it at something solid pretty soon....at high velocity!!

I've never had a bad day with Halfords primers in all the years I've used it to be honest, did you just use the primer as the finished coat? I used Clostermann etch primer and it did everything but etch and fell off the metal work as soon as looked at, even though the brass was carefully cleaned well before hand.

On top of that I added the Halfords satin black and that was a lovely finish, just right for under frames and other areas, probably not glossy enough for bodies though.

Lining, bit academic really but was going to try decals, I've some HMRS but they're a bit crude....say's he with paint like a beaten patio!....though some of it looks usable, or perhaps try Foxline, they were always good with 4mm stuff when used in the past, hand lining:eek: no I don't think so, not unless all other alternatives are so crap I can't live with them!

I'm hoping that the base acylic underneath may remain intact and act as a barrier if I just gently use enamel thinners and a cotton bud to get the green off?
 
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Mick,
I have found the Autotek spray cans from my local car accessory shop are very good for both primers and top coats and I have always found a near enough match. This is fine if the model is going to be weathered to any extent.
These are acrylics and I have had no problems with using enamels for weathering over the top.
If I wanted a shiny buffer museum peice:eek: then I think it will be a case of celly in the airbrush.

Other makes I've had success with are Carplan, Holts and Hycote.

I've never been keen on finishing with enamel, preferring cellulose or acrylic.

Col.
 
Eastsidepilot

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
.........
On top of that I added the Halfords satin black and that was a lovely finish, just right for under frames and other areas, probably not glossy enough for bodies though.

Lining, bit academic really but was going to try decals, I've some HMRS but they're a bit crude....say's he with paint like a beaten patio!....though some of it looks usable, or perhaps try Foxline, they were always good with 4mm stuff when used in the past, hand lining:eek: no I don't think so, not unless all other alternatives are so crap I can't live with them!

I'm hoping that the base acrylic underneath may remain intact and act as a barrier if I just gently use enamel thinners and a cotton bud to get the green off?
Click to expand...

Mick,
I always use satin, not had any complaints http://www.eastsidepilot.com/aclass/index.html this was finished with it.

Col.
 
Buckjumper

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
mickoo said:
but I'm never that lucky so suspect it'll be off to Homebase for nitromors I suspect tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Nitromores - yuk! Nasty, messy stuff. It'll fetch the paint off OK, but if you don't get all the stripper out from the nooks and crannies it'll remain active and spoil your next attempt which is bound to be a stunner. How do I know? Got that T-shirt.

I now immerse duff paint jobs in a bath of cellulose thinners and leave them steep for a few hours. It might take a sustained stewing in there and a gentle scrubbing with a toothbrush to fetch off the etch primer from the awkward areas, but at least you won't have any nasties lurking afterwards.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
... I used Clostermann etch primer and it did everything but etch and fell off the metal work as soon as looked at, even though the brass was carefully cleaned well before hand.
Click to expand...
Funny that, just what happened to me when I tried the product on a brass kit. Further, I have used Clostermann on some brass and w/m bogies and I was underwhelmed by the difficulty in getting a smooth / even surface. No matter how much others sing the praise of the Clostermann product this is a primer that I am not going to use again.

After the experiment by Simon Thompson - see his topic - I am going to try the Halford's Acid8 etch primer with subsequent coats of Chaos Black acrylic spray from Games Workshop.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Colin, what colour do you use for BR green then? I'm settled on Satin black, the finish is just about right for me, not too glossy and not matt so decals will sit on it well enough.

Regarding the tender, more news in a moment, what did we ever do with out Google!
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
And the dumb - smart balance is restored;)

IMG_8433.jpg

Little more cleaning tomorrow and a blow over with satin acrylic and it should all be fine.

Question now is, am I brave enough to try again with the Railmatch enamel.....letting each layer dry for a day or two first:cool:

Ohh, and the solution....courtesy of ladies nail polish restoration, remove enamels from acrylics (nail polish) with white spirits before the enamel hardens, I swabbed the sides with a cotton bud liberally soaked in white spirits and let it settle for a few minutes, then just attacked with a tooth brush, some parts came off in great big flakes, the rest in little flecks.
The only problem is that the bits that come off are soft with white spirits and then tend to stick where ever they lay, so you have to keep moving and brush them totally off the model. Once 98% is off I went over the model under a magnifying glass and picked off all the remaining soft flecks with the tip of a sharp knife but a cocktail stick would be fine also.

The Halfords satin black is hellish tough and took quite brutal scrubbing from the tooth brush and very firm rubbing with a cotton bud in it's stride, though after a while the white spirits does begin to loosen the surface and black smudges began to appear on the cotton bud......then it was time to stop;)
 
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