7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Indeed you do, the buffers will all come out again to have the heads blackened and the bit of thread at the back. The nut being brass I've never managed to blacken well, even with the pukka stuff, so it'll get a good dose of black etch primer to make it scratch resistant and then three days later a full matt black coat.
They've only been fitted to test the springs and make sure the bores are fully clear of paint.
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Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Thank you.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Lets start again in the right thread 
First of the Bulleids is back up on it's feet and rolling nicely. Next step is all the details and internal parts.
I've decided to go with micro magnets to hold the smokebox door closed, though just the small amount of paint that's got in the hinges is enough friction to hold it closed quite well.
First of the Bulleids is back up on it's feet and rolling nicely. Next step is all the details and internal parts.
I've decided to go with micro magnets to hold the smokebox door closed, though just the small amount of paint that's got in the hinges is enough friction to hold it closed quite well.
cmax
Western Thunderer
Stunning model Mick, absolutely stunning.Lets start again in the right thread
First of the Bulleids is back up on it's feet and rolling nicely. Next step is all the details and internal parts.
I've decided to go with micro magnets to hold the smokebox door closed, though just the small amount of paint that's got in the hinges is enough friction to hold it closed quite well.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Cheers, still a long way to go as yet, lots of little details to add now, pipework to clean back, smokebox interior and cab interior, then it'll start to look better.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Magnificent. I look forward to more upgrades on other good quality base kits.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Giesl, couple of niggles in the roof, so some changes and another print on it's way with revisions and some tweaks to the machine settings.
The petticoat I can only do when I have the casing for Spitfire (test pig) done, then I can align everything and check gaps etc.
The petticoat I can only do when I have the casing for Spitfire (test pig) done, then I can align everything and check gaps etc.
John Walker
Active Member
My apologies for jumping on this thread again but I am not sure where else to put this.
We started discussing my 3D printed resin centred Bulleid wheels here:
and progress continues. We have now produced a cast iron version from 3D printed waxes as shown below. Can anyone recommend a 3D printing resin for producing waxes on my Phrozen mini 8K or similar? More importantly can anyone recommend someone able to produce the waxes from my CAD in quantity and at a reasonable price.
The castings are designed to take an etch for the front plate similar to the Finney7 ones.
Regards
John Walker
We started discussing my 3D printed resin centred Bulleid wheels here:
7mm - Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
Superb quality and detail, what more can you add to any model? seen or unseen, A complete BLP along with the smokebox detail. There's actually quite a lot more ;) Some you cannot due to scale and practical considerations and the rest would require a lot more rebuilding/hacking of the core kit...
westernthunder.co.uk
and progress continues. We have now produced a cast iron version from 3D printed waxes as shown below. Can anyone recommend a 3D printing resin for producing waxes on my Phrozen mini 8K or similar? More importantly can anyone recommend someone able to produce the waxes from my CAD in quantity and at a reasonable price.
The castings are designed to take an etch for the front plate similar to the Finney7 ones.
Regards
John Walker
mickoo
Western Thunderer
That’s correct, three pipes on the rebuilds, four on the originals. The cente cylinder ones are approximately half the bore of the corrugated ones for the outside cylinders, hence two of them to get the same volume.
Originally the outside cylinder ones were smooth but suffered from fractures, the corrugated ones came later but I’m not sure all of the class received them.
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Giesl, couple of niggles in the roof, so some changes and another print on it's way with revisions and some tweaks to the machine settings.
The petticoat I can only do when I have the casing for Spitfire (test pig) done, then I can align everything and check gaps etc.
Errrrmmm, you haven't printed the ash deposits on the smokebox floor......
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
A lovely piece of work. I remember years ago seeing an A3 built by John Edgson, featuring an opening smokebox door, run in to the Barnet Club’s Peterborough station layout: it stopped quite quickly and the smokebox door flew open. So I would definitely go with the magnet.Lets start again in the right thread
First of the Bulleids is back up on it's feet and rolling nicely. Next step is all the details and internal parts.
I've decided to go with micro magnets to hold the smokebox door closed, though just the small amount of paint that's got in the hinges is enough friction to hold it closed quite well.
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On a different point, I have made a Finney A4 and am looking at the MOK Merchant Navy re-release. As a complete novice 7mm modeller, and not wanting to offend anyone, but what are the differences between the two kit types?
Tim
John Walker
Active Member
Hello Tim
I find the MOK kits easier to build because of the comprehensive arrangement of slots and twisted tabs. However you must follow the instructions to assemble them in the correct sequence or you just can't get the parts into position. Also the MOK kits don't have any push out rivets. I find them a curse especially in the thicker 7mm materials.
The MOK kits come with a comprehensive compensation system and they are all nickel silver.
The fit of the parts in both cases is exceptionally good. It beats me how Dave manages to get all those slots and tabs in the right place!
Rob Wigley is planning to talk to you about the Bulleid wheels at Ally Pally.
Regards
John Walker
I find the MOK kits easier to build because of the comprehensive arrangement of slots and twisted tabs. However you must follow the instructions to assemble them in the correct sequence or you just can't get the parts into position. Also the MOK kits don't have any push out rivets. I find them a curse especially in the thicker 7mm materials.
The MOK kits come with a comprehensive compensation system and they are all nickel silver.
The fit of the parts in both cases is exceptionally good. It beats me how Dave manages to get all those slots and tabs in the right place!
Rob Wigley is planning to talk to you about the Bulleid wheels at Ally Pally.
Regards
John Walker
