7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

mickoo

Western Thunderer
But that's what we like about you Mick, no Bull**** please carry on as you are, your models are superb, you are up there with the best of them, in fact, you are in a league of your own, not afraid to try new the new tech out, and use accordingly, the Giesl and smokebox prints, a case in point.

Gary
You're give me too much credit :D
 
Spinning more plates here, finally got around to fitting the sliding sand cover doors, they work....phew! Next up the 3D sand filler behind which I'll draw up shortly and fit.

The smoke box door design has been constantly evolving, getting it to move freely and hold shut with the magnets has taken more time that I envisaged. It now all works, though the door and sealing ring parts could benefit from a slight revision.

The old parts work fine but the revised parts may just make life a touch easier; I'll have a play in the next few days and test it on engine #2.

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Hi Mick
Certainly looks the part now!
How are the sliding door guides fixed to the inside of the casing?
Dave
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Small update on the current BLP, brake gear done, always best to do that when you're in the right frame of mind....spawn of Satan.

Finished off a few other little knick knacks and pipework but still need to do injector pipework (once casing fitted); tomorrows task will be the slide bars and crosshead area to virtually complete the chassis.

Couple of modifications to the chassis, there is a small risk of the Delta truck wheels shorting on the frames if you're pushing close to 6' radius and certainly below.

The Delta truck swing is limited by the ash pans hanging down in front and the weight bearing stay at the rear, so you need extra play in the axle, just leave the side control washers out. But that does run the risk of shorts so I cut two arcs in the frames to clear.

The second is cosmetic, the kit does not supply a floor for the sloped rear section of the ash pan each side of the frames and leaves an ugly gap. Simply fill in with new plate work angled to suit, a nice little light blocker and adds a bit more mass to that area.

I also change the way the cab floor (the bit with the backhead on) is fitted, originally designed it fixes to the chassis on those two raised plates at the back; it makes fitting the body/cab assembly over that a tad awkward when the backhead is secured.

I fit the cab floor to the casing (later in the build) but it has two straps on the underside to hold the pipework for the injectors etc. You need to add two dummy plates from the rear alongside the up stands (they're also another nice light blocker under the cab) and then add the pipework straps to those (later in the build).

The extra plate work should be easy enough to see/work out from the photos.

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Tim Watson

Western Thunderer
What I should have said is that it’s interesting to see the prototypical gearbox In a view that wouldn’t normally happen in real life (maybe apart from a serious derailment).

Tim
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Beautiful work, as always, Mick.
Is the brake gear removable as a unit to allow removal/fitting the wheels, or are you able to waggle them onto the axles with the gear in situ?
Dave.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Beautiful work, as always, Mick.
Is the brake gear removable as a unit to allow removal/fitting the wheels, or are you able to waggle them onto the axles with the gear in situ?
Dave.
Cheers.

It's not removable I'm afraid, I did that on the first model with little 14BA screws and it was a right faff and made the fold up hangers fragile.

Now I solder it all up solid and wriggle the wheels in and out, it's tight and the door is wide open for C'tain Cock Up and his merry crew to damage something, but if you take care it can be done.

It's a little easier if you skim 0.5 mm off the end of the square stub on the Slaters axles, there's plenty still left to locate and secure the wheel, but 0.5 mm makes a big difference getting the wheels on and off with the brake rigging attached.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
More BLP FMJ development. There's been a couple of feelers for a SR original casing and roof but at the Kettering show they materialized into firm expressions of interest.

Step one is to modify the roof which basically means moving the safety valves, moving one of the washout plugs and removing the small access hatches up front. The biggest change is to remove the fairing around the chimney to reveal the outline below and add detail. There's a few printer tweaks as well, such that a roof now takes 47hrs :eek:

Step two is to revise the casing skins with the extra sand filler hatch and sliding doors plus associated rivets etc, compared to the 3D roof, a walk in the park :cool:

Just a render for now but I'll show the roof in a couple of days if it all works out well.

There were also some inquiries about Merchant Navy casings...which set the old grey cells churning.

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Please put me down for rhe side casing skins with the front sand fillers if and when available. Will these have the front cut off to accomodate the lower valance in front of the cylinders?
Dave
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Please put me down for rhe side casing skins with the front sand fillers if and when available. Will these have the front cut off to accomodate the lower valance in front of the cylinders?
Dave
Already have ;)

It's the full SR casing with covered in section ahead of the cylinders and swept section above buffer beam as well as sand doors and fixing rivets. I can exchange them for the BR ones you already have if you want and offset the return postage.

Until last week the SR options were a non runner due to costs etc, but when three or four express an interest then the change costs become spread out and workable.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Already have ;)

It's the full SR casing with covered in section ahead of the cylinders and swept section above buffer beam as well as sand doors and fixing rivets. I can exchange them for the BR ones you already have if you want and offset the return postage.

Until last week the SR options were a non runner due to costs etc, but when three or four express an interest then the change costs become spread out and workable.

Were you 'Bulleid' into it Mick?

(Sorry, hat, coat etc)
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
There were also some inquiries about Merchant Navy casings...which set the old grey cells churning.
I've fancied having a go at a MN in its early incarnation with the original cab (maybe even in wartime black), but the absence of a decent kit has prevented that happening.

If you do decide to go down the road of producing MN casings, I for one would be very interested to see what you come up with. I guess it'll still be down to the individual to sort out chassis, castings, tender etc.

Please keep posting your projects here. I rarely have anything to say other than a 'like', but that doesn't mean I'm not impressed! :cool:

Mike
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I've fancied having a go at a MN in its early incarnation with the original cab (maybe even in wartime black), but the absence of a decent kit has prevented that happening.

If you do decide to go down the road of producing MN casings, I for one would be very interested to see what you come up with. I guess it'll still be down to the individual to sort out chassis, castings, tender etc.

Please keep posting your projects here. I rarely have anything to say other than a 'like', but that doesn't mean I'm not impressed! :cool:

Mike
Yeah, that's the problem, the casing and cab are actually the easy bits.

I don't think the casings are the same either, the MN appears to have a more squat/flatter top and tenders are a minefield, made slightly easier if you're just modelling an early SR engine I think.
 

spikey faz

Western Thunderer
I think minefield sums it up nicely!

I suppose the soon to be reintroduced MOK MN is the only kit that will provide a decent basis for an air-smoothed MN. But I don't think I could justify not using all the rebuilt body etchings/castings.

Mike
 
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