Here we go again, another new project, this time a MOK Urie King Arthur dated 1926.
As with any MOK kit, assembly is simplified by slot and tab and etches that, well just fit.
As is usual I've deviated from the normal build process, not much, more to suit my style than needs must. The tabs are long enough to be pulled through and twisted, soldered and then made flush. Occasionally that'll be on a visible surface, in which case I pre cut them short. It makes it a little harder to hold parts in place, but there is no tab clean up required afterward or marking of the visible surface.
The bogie sides have an inner and an outer overlay, the inner is fitted to the substantial inner frame, tabs trimmed and the overlay fitted last; I then find it hard to dress the two back to give a clean edge. Instead I've pre trimmed the tabs, laminated the two outer frames and then dressed the edge whilst still flat in the vice. Nothing wrong with the kit advice or build method just my ham fisted way of doing things.
The leading bogie still requires the outer frames and brake hangers, once those are done then the rest of the brakes will be added to both; I'll also substitute the cast brake blocks with printed resin ones.
The plan is to complete these two sub assemblies, sans springs and droppers, I've an alternative set up to evolve, not because I necessarily need to, but because I can and I think it'll save me a heap of time.
The springs and dropper castings are okay, if you want to spend a lot of time cleaning and straightening them out and, I'll be candid, the droppers will still look like cast rods, I'm not a big fan of cast droppers. I'll keep the cast anchor points, axle boxes and covers but substitute 1.0 mm wire for the droppers and 3D springs, I hate cleaning mould marks off springs.
Once these two bogies are done then it'll be a quick change of region and tackle the Ivatt 4MT tender for a couple of days to drag that back into the game.
