Mr Grumpy

Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Can I be incredibly picky re the Hymek? The wipers spoil it for me - too far down the screen (almost halfway!) in that 'parked' position with the blades parallel to the top windscreen edge.

Other than that... well it's a close call as to whether Hymeks or Westerns are the better looking loco!! :)
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Jordan,
I think across the two forums I have had more comments about the wipers than anything else :confused: I think the problem is the arms are a tad too long.
It may be that a couple of pairs of etched ones may be available.
Anyway, for now, hope this does the trick.......:)
I agree it is a hard choice between the Western and Hymek, but for me the Hymek is the winner!
Part of the reason is probably as I was brought up next to Sonning Cutting on the Western region, I got bored with the constant procession of Westerns!
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
My modelling has taken a rear seat for a few days, but even so, both bogies, apart from the split axles are complete. I have now made the first cut in each axle and filled with Devcon 2Ton epoxy, and left to fully harden before making the final cuts from the centre to the outer edges.
I was amazed at how quickly the bogies went together compared with the hymek and DJH 47. I had intended to show a blow by blow account, but there wasn't really much to show! All the pipework is represented by lost wax castings and fits perfectly, so no fiddling and faffing with wire bending and worse for me...measuring!
The ABC motor bogie is very nice, and the locating holes for the bogies and springs all line up perfectly.
As mentioned previously, the design of the bogie makes it very difficult to utilise the cast in stud on the loco chassis, due to the very close proximity of the cardan shaft. Also, the end detail from the resin bogie needs to be grafted on.
The photos below should explain all these points.
Laurie has kindly sent me a frame with only one stud cast in so I will see if I can make this work.
Going back to my Hymek, the transfers have arrived so I may get those on later today. I still need to get a couple of Beyer Peacock makers plates.
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Jordan

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Oh gawd I'm at it again :confused: :oops: :shit:

I'm counting 12 spokes per wheel ;) although admitedly they end up very well hidden behind the side frames anyway :thumbs:
and the castings, resin & whitemetal, are superb, & the springs coil the right way too!! :)

Sorry, anorak mode /off, & just realising how scarred I really must be from my Class 22 build some years ago, now... :'(
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Sorry, anorak mode /off, & just realising how scarred I really must be from my Class 22 build some years ago, now... :'(

....just keep taking the pills and stay in a darkened room.......
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
On a separate note, more out of curiosity really, why is only one truck motorised and not go for an all axle drive with a centrally mounted motor?

I believe Steph is going to motorise his class 22 this way :thumbs:
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I finished cutting and fileing the split axles and ran the connecting wires from the wheel tyres to the centre bosses. I have also drilled through the bearing flanges and inserted 0.5 copper wire and attached the pick up wires.
The cuts weren't the straightest on the axles, but both ends are now insulated from each other.
The bearing flanges were too deep to allow the wheels to fit and had to be filed back. The trailing bogie and wheels are now in primer.
I temporarily put the body parts together and realised the whole body is able to lift off from the chassis, so no mods required to the roof, if I can gain access to the body screws with the bogies in place. I have a plan to enable me to swing the motor bogie to one side to gain access to the central bulkhead screw though ;)

(Steph.... If you are still with me look away now :oops:
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Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
The bearing flanges were too deep to allow the wheels to fit and had to be filed back.
Click to expand...

Hi Richard,

That seems to be commonplace with the JLTRT kits. Both my 20 and 40s were the same in that the bogie mainframe seems a tad too wide.

Mr Grumpy said:
...I temporarily put the body parts together and realised the whole body is able to lift off from the chassis, so no mods required to the roof, if I can gain access to the body screws with the bogies in place. I have a plan to enable me to swing the motor bogie to one side to gain access to the central bulkhead screw though ;)
Click to expand...

You will be able to get access to the screws - it seems you have sussed it out already :thumbs:

You're really moving with this build, do you have plans to put crews in the cabs?

Cheers
Lee
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
The crew are ready and waiting...
I used to be a Slade fan back in the day, I thought a mirrored top hat may be a bit over the top, so I went for a flat cap instead :D
The battle of the bogie isn't quite resolved yet, I had to remove a large quantity of material to get it in. The motor shafts are very long at the back, and a little bit long at the front, making it difficult if not impossible to access the bulkhead screw. I thought of removing the excess shafts with my cutting disk, but I'm concerned I may damage the motor.
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
.....I took the plunge and cut the motor shafts back, the motor bogie can now be moved aside to allow the bulkhead screw to be removed.:)
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
The design of the bogie does not allow access to remove the wheels or axles for any future maintenance. I'm sure a simple modification could be employed, but mine will be put together as per instructions !
As Im using split axles, it is essential to check that each end of the axle is definitely insulated from the other end, and that the wheels have electrical continuity from the tyre to the centre boss.
The easiest way to check is with a multimeter. Set the reading to Ohms resistance. There should be an open circuit between the ends of each axle, and a closed circuit between tyre and boss. The reading for the wheel shows
2 Ohms, this is due to the resistance of the fused leads. Of course, you can also check the readings with the sound turned on on the meter :)
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Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have made the bogie frames removable by adding a thin coat of epoxy to the fixing studs and left to cure. The frames are now a nice tight fit and won't fall off! Also, I have made the brake rods a tight fit on the brake hangers, so no glue required to hold them in place. So, should the wheels need to come out.....they can:)
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have spent several hours painting all the cab and buffer beam castings. The cabs are taking a bit of fettling to fit nicely, but are almost there :)

I'll get some pics up once the cabs are fixed in place.
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
I have spent several hours painting all the cab and buffer beam castings. The cabs are taking a bit of fettling to fit nicely, but are almost there :)

I'll get some pics up once the cabs are fixed in place.
Click to expand...

Hi Richard,

I'm not sure if you know this with but 'some' of the JLTRT kits you need to fix the bulkhead to the cab before fixing the body sides and roof (I'm not sure about your cl22 but check). It is certainly the case with the 40s, otherwise you cannot get the bulkhead into position if you attach the bodysides and roof to the cabs.

.... and paint the bulkheads first ;)

Cheers
Lee
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Lee,
This kit is totally different to the Hymek, in which every thing was glued to the chassis, and the cab floor and bufferbeam were incorporated in to the chassis.
On the 22, the body sides and bulkheads screw in to the chassis (6 screws) and the cabs are glued to the bulkheads afterwards. The cab floor and desk is one casting which slides in to the cab prior to fitting the cab to the bulkhead. Hopefully this all makes sense :)
So, the chassis is similar to your 40s in that you could run just the chassis and bogies devoid of the body, which is great for getting the decoder and speaker all laid out and tested prior to dropping the body on, and painting the bogies and fuel tank. :thumbs:
I haven't had nearly as much time to play with the Hymek and 22 as I did my 47 and 1400, and I'm amazed just how quickly they still went together, despite a few issues with the fit of some panels.
I bet my etched brake van takes considerably longer :)
 
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