7mm On Heather's Workbench - Aintree Iron: an Austerity adventure
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Mick,
To put everything on the GA would make it incomprehensible; in the case of sanders that's what Pipe and Rod Arrangements are for.
Heather,
You can get some very nice sand trap castings from that nice Mr Parkins, if you feel the need...
Steph
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Everyone, thanks for all the info and extra images. It's been very helpful, and I am having a think about how to best replicate the sanding pipes and fittings.
Meanwhile, in the spirit of a check list of things that need sorting out to finish this model, I've picked up the loco brake gear. It's useful to know how the rigging fits so I get a clue about the sanding gear fixtures.
As I did with the pannier tank build, I've opted to use 14BA bolts so the shoes can be moved about for wheel access. The cast cross shafts may be retained by soldered washers on the ends.
Here's an issue. The Slater's gearbox blocks the pull rod to the rear. I'm not going to hack the box about - aside from the risk of crap getting in the gears, the lack of rod won't really be visible.
The second issue, which is worth noting for other builders of this kit, is the risk of shorting on the back of the shoes on the two intermediate axles. This is because I am restricting sideplay on the leading and motor-driven axles, leaving the intermediates with some movement. I shall remedy the shorting risk by gluing some more black styrene around the affected shoes. Space is very tight in this area for fine scale standards, and Slater's have helped by making the driving wheels slightly under the correct diameter to allow for it.
Meanwhile, in the spirit of a check list of things that need sorting out to finish this model, I've picked up the loco brake gear. It's useful to know how the rigging fits so I get a clue about the sanding gear fixtures.
As I did with the pannier tank build, I've opted to use 14BA bolts so the shoes can be moved about for wheel access. The cast cross shafts may be retained by soldered washers on the ends.
Here's an issue. The Slater's gearbox blocks the pull rod to the rear. I'm not going to hack the box about - aside from the risk of crap getting in the gears, the lack of rod won't really be visible.
The second issue, which is worth noting for other builders of this kit, is the risk of shorting on the back of the shoes on the two intermediate axles. This is because I am restricting sideplay on the leading and motor-driven axles, leaving the intermediates with some movement. I shall remedy the shorting risk by gluing some more black styrene around the affected shoes. Space is very tight in this area for fine scale standards, and Slater's have helped by making the driving wheels slightly under the correct diameter to allow for it.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Your wish is my command!
As you say, they will probably look better with the balance weights on.
Meanwhile, I find myself mending things I've broken or not fixed in place properly. I'm reaching a point where I ought to walk away for a spell.
As you say, they will probably look better with the balance weights on.
Meanwhile, I find myself mending things I've broken or not fixed in place properly. I'm reaching a point where I ought to walk away for a spell.
JohnFla
Western Thunderer
Your a good modeler Heather, but I have had the same, while trying to put something on I invariably break something off, I am deff a one step fwd but two back.
I have an Idea, we should invent a Jig that will allow the boiler to spin so that we can fit exhaust valves, injector valves, regulator rods, and handrails so that my front steps and some pipework decides to disengage from its fixed point
Grasshopper John.
I have an Idea, we should invent a Jig that will allow the boiler to spin so that we can fit exhaust valves, injector valves, regulator rods, and handrails so that my front steps and some pipework decides to disengage from its fixed point
Grasshopper John.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Ian, I go for offcuts of softwood. They are also brilliant at holding bits during assembly, especially if you drill multifarious holes in them for pins and wire to fit.
Today I began to fit the sanding pipes.
I am almost happy with the shape and locations, which means I can work out a method of bodging the support brackets together. I will admit I have had to adjust the location of the trailing sanders, the ones on the outside of the frames, due to clashes with the brakes.
Ho hum.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
One of the problems of cast (and etched) metal brake blocks is the risk of electrical shorts. This is worse if the loco has to negotiate excessively tight curves.
To overcome the problem I glue thin black styrene to the face of each block.
Although the most this WD might encounter is a 6ft radius, I'm testing it on something a smidge tighter. With a little sideplay on two of the axles, it became apparent that the rear of each shoe might also touch the flange. I've fashioned this back cover arrangement to try to alleviate that possibility.
To overcome the problem I glue thin black styrene to the face of each block.
Although the most this WD might encounter is a 6ft radius, I'm testing it on something a smidge tighter. With a little sideplay on two of the axles, it became apparent that the rear of each shoe might also touch the flange. I've fashioned this back cover arrangement to try to alleviate that possibility.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
At every stage I try to check nothing has gone awry. Having insulated the brake shoes, it seemed a good idea to fit them and check clearances. Here the loco is on the test track, with the boiler balanced on the frames to ensure the springs are compressed. So far - tempting fate - the sanding pipes and brake blocks don't cause problems.
(Incidentally, test running in this nude state has shown I need to add a little ballast weight under the cab to help adhesion.)
One thing, though, has me by turns sad and happy. Apart from the rear sanding pipe I won't be able to fit support brackets as the brake rigging gets in the way. It's all very tight in there, so I think I shall leave any further complications out of the mix. Some bracket for the rear pipes will be needed, but it can be simplified.
Having spent all day futzing about with this stuff, and feeling I hadn't really achieved anything, it was nonetheless pleasing to sit back and tick off one more task from the check list.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Glacial progress again, but lots of fettling and fiddling about.
The trailing sanding pipe now has a bodged bracket, the rear brake operating mechanism has been installed, and the frames have had a dose of paint.
The driver's have had the balance weights installed, the backs of which have been filled, and the first coat of paint slapped on. Various other parts have been attacked with the chemical black.
It can't be long before I have to commit to fitting the cylinders, which means the wheels and coupling rods will have to be in. A couple of things need to be in place before that step. Once the valve gear goes in, there is no reason why the running plate can't be fitted and the various details refitted and added.
Back to the cylinders for a bit, though. The draincocks need work.
This is the sprue of brass castings. Each has a stub drain pipe. These have to be removed, tidied up and replaced to represent the real thing better. I am trying to work out the best way to hold things in the machine vice for the pillar drill.
Watch this space!
The trailing sanding pipe now has a bodged bracket, the rear brake operating mechanism has been installed, and the frames have had a dose of paint.
The driver's have had the balance weights installed, the backs of which have been filled, and the first coat of paint slapped on. Various other parts have been attacked with the chemical black.
It can't be long before I have to commit to fitting the cylinders, which means the wheels and coupling rods will have to be in. A couple of things need to be in place before that step. Once the valve gear goes in, there is no reason why the running plate can't be fitted and the various details refitted and added.
Back to the cylinders for a bit, though. The draincocks need work.
This is the sprue of brass castings. Each has a stub drain pipe. These have to be removed, tidied up and replaced to represent the real thing better. I am trying to work out the best way to hold things in the machine vice for the pillar drill.
Watch this space!
Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
Heather,
If, as I assume, you are going to cut off the stub drain pipes and drill into the square part of the casting I would suggest cutting the sprue close to the central thick sprue. You can then get a good grip on this in the vice. Then a small piece of packing in the gap between the the square part of the casting and the bracket above it should provide support whilst drilling. I would drill at high speed, 8k revs is what I can achieve on my drill, and some lubrication on the drill bit. This should work OK and is based on my recent experience of drilling 0.5mm holes into castings to attach wire representing lubrication pipes. Good luck.
Tim
If, as I assume, you are going to cut off the stub drain pipes and drill into the square part of the casting I would suggest cutting the sprue close to the central thick sprue. You can then get a good grip on this in the vice. Then a small piece of packing in the gap between the the square part of the casting and the bracket above it should provide support whilst drilling. I would drill at high speed, 8k revs is what I can achieve on my drill, and some lubrication on the drill bit. This should work OK and is based on my recent experience of drilling 0.5mm holes into castings to attach wire representing lubrication pipes. Good luck.
Tim
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Tim, great minds! 
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather you could use a pin vice to hold the spru and put that in the vice.
Len
Len
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
In the end I held the sprue in the vice - it's a small one designed for the smaller drills. The cast baseplate held things firm and square on the top side. The problem was marking the hole with enough of a "pop" for the drill to bite. I ended up drilling by hand, starting with a tiny mark, a 0.4mm drill and opening up to 0.7mm-ish.
I'm not happy, but it'll have to do.
I've turned to the coupling rods for a while, because they need to have the knuckle joints properly sorted out and the recessed crankpin nut, um, recessed.
I have to say I think I need a break to clear my head. I'm losing the interest in this build right now. Perhaps some time in the outdoors while the sun is shining will do me good.
I'm not happy, but it'll have to do.
I've turned to the coupling rods for a while, because they need to have the knuckle joints properly sorted out and the recessed crankpin nut, um, recessed.
I have to say I think I need a break to clear my head. I'm losing the interest in this build right now. Perhaps some time in the outdoors while the sun is shining will do me good.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I don't want to talk about Monday. Let's just say I was recovering from a tummy upset that had kept me awake most of the previous night…
The time for fitting the coupling rods for more or less the final time had arrived. It was time, therefore to make the knuckle joints a permanent fixture. Whether my brain was out of phase I cannot tell. I did the first set with some very tidy joints I was pleased with, and was well on the way with the second pair when I realised I had made something of a booboo.
The precise nature of the booboo will remain with me, but I had to undo all the good work I'd done as part of the rectification process. This had the unhappy coincidence of uncovering another, potentially more serious, booboo, too.
So I had to fix that, then got in a right muddle trying to recover things to where I had been at the outset of the morning.
It's all sorted now, but the inevitable issue of clearances behind slidebars has reared its grinning, fang-laden fizzog.
Despite recessing crankpins nuts, and shaving material from the rear of the piston rod heads and coupling rod bosses, I have to accept the fact that the cylinders will have to be moved outwards.
Why is there not an emoticon for a huge, resigned sigh?
The time for fitting the coupling rods for more or less the final time had arrived. It was time, therefore to make the knuckle joints a permanent fixture. Whether my brain was out of phase I cannot tell. I did the first set with some very tidy joints I was pleased with, and was well on the way with the second pair when I realised I had made something of a booboo.
The precise nature of the booboo will remain with me, but I had to undo all the good work I'd done as part of the rectification process. This had the unhappy coincidence of uncovering another, potentially more serious, booboo, too.
So I had to fix that, then got in a right muddle trying to recover things to where I had been at the outset of the morning.
It's all sorted now, but the inevitable issue of clearances behind slidebars has reared its grinning, fang-laden fizzog.
Despite recessing crankpins nuts, and shaving material from the rear of the piston rod heads and coupling rod bosses, I have to accept the fact that the cylinders will have to be moved outwards.
Why is there not an emoticon for a huge, resigned sigh?
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Right! Rather than throw all the smileys out of my pram, I did a bit of working out.
I figured I would ideally like to move the cylinders out by about a millimetre each side. Rather than risk removing too much material, I took baby steps.
First, the cylinder block got the chop. Rather happily this now makes the thing easier to slide in and out during test fittings!
Next, I spent a few minutes working out how much depth the rod and crankpin nut took up. The figure I ended up with was 9mm, measured from the inside of the frame to the outside of the nut. That meant I would like at least 10mm to the inside face of the cross head.
A little more noodle scratching and I reckoned that filing down the main frame from 15.2 to 14.2mm would let me slide the cylinder block out the thickness of the frame material, without needing to butcher the cylinder mountings much further.
This area is hidden behind the cylinders, so removing a bit from the top edge is not a problem. On the frame stretcher there is a half-etched line meant for the back of the block assembly to slot into. This is helpful in keeping alignment during this exercise.
Anyway, in for a penny, I clamped the half cylinder in place and took a look.
Well, it fits in place. I have widened the slot at the rear of the block by the frame thickness to help things slot together. What about space behind the cross head?
Well, with the coupling rod perched on the crankpin, I reckon there's about enough clearance. Note the slidebars now sit outboard slightly of the motion bracket. If this annoys me sufficiently I have scrap material from the frames etch sheet which would let me shim the bracket back out to compensate. This, of course, might affect the bracket fitting below the running plate, so this slidebar discrepancy might have to be one of those compromises we all have to make from time to time.
The acid test will be to rig up the cylinder more securely and refit the coupling rod properly to see exactly how much space I have managed to wangle for myself. That is a job for the morrow, I think.
I figured I would ideally like to move the cylinders out by about a millimetre each side. Rather than risk removing too much material, I took baby steps.
First, the cylinder block got the chop. Rather happily this now makes the thing easier to slide in and out during test fittings!
Next, I spent a few minutes working out how much depth the rod and crankpin nut took up. The figure I ended up with was 9mm, measured from the inside of the frame to the outside of the nut. That meant I would like at least 10mm to the inside face of the cross head.
A little more noodle scratching and I reckoned that filing down the main frame from 15.2 to 14.2mm would let me slide the cylinder block out the thickness of the frame material, without needing to butcher the cylinder mountings much further.
This area is hidden behind the cylinders, so removing a bit from the top edge is not a problem. On the frame stretcher there is a half-etched line meant for the back of the block assembly to slot into. This is helpful in keeping alignment during this exercise.
Anyway, in for a penny, I clamped the half cylinder in place and took a look.
Well, it fits in place. I have widened the slot at the rear of the block by the frame thickness to help things slot together. What about space behind the cross head?
Well, with the coupling rod perched on the crankpin, I reckon there's about enough clearance. Note the slidebars now sit outboard slightly of the motion bracket. If this annoys me sufficiently I have scrap material from the frames etch sheet which would let me shim the bracket back out to compensate. This, of course, might affect the bracket fitting below the running plate, so this slidebar discrepancy might have to be one of those compromises we all have to make from time to time.
The acid test will be to rig up the cylinder more securely and refit the coupling rod properly to see exactly how much space I have managed to wangle for myself. That is a job for the morrow, I think.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Heather - it might be a bit late, but from what I see you have a boss on the connecting rod for the leading crankpin. Would it be possible to just have connecting rod thickness by removing the projecting boss, which I assume is an etching? Also the back of the crosshead could be thinned down a little more to make it 'waffer' thin. I know it's a bit of a cheat, but the front crankpin is mostly hidden behind the slidebars, and I've done on a few of mine, but don't tell anyone.
You might have already thought of these, but it is a perennial problem.
Regards
Tony
You might have already thought of these, but it is a perennial problem.
Regards
Tony
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Tony, I have thought of those things. I've been thinning the back of the cross head quite a bit, and you are correct that a good deal more of the rod boss could come off.
I shall ponder while I work on some admin stuff this morning.
I shall ponder while I work on some admin stuff this morning.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Heather, it looks like your making a lot of work for your self moving the cylinders out, looking at your photo above you look to have well over 1mm gap. If you trimmed the crank pin screw down you would get a better idea of how much room you have. As has been said before if you turn the Slater's top hat around so that the rim is on the outside all you have is 0.5mm on the out side of the rods. If you don't like the idea of the brass showing a tinning of solder would make it look more like steel. When you look at the photos below (copyright remands with the owner of both and are only used to illustrate a point) both the front and second driver both have the "flat" faced crank pin nuts.
In this photo of the 2-10-0 it also has one of the flat faced nuts on the fourth driving wheel as well, I don't know why as this wheel doesn't require any clearance? It could be possible that it has had a second placed driver fitted as a fourth driver and the crank pin is different. With out going through more photo of WD 2-10-0s I'm not sure.
Keep up the good work,
OzzyO.
In this photo of the 2-10-0 it also has one of the flat faced nuts on the fourth driving wheel as well, I don't know why as this wheel doesn't require any clearance? It could be possible that it has had a second placed driver fitted as a fourth driver and the crank pin is different. With out going through more photo of WD 2-10-0s I'm not sure.
Keep up the good work,
OzzyO.