Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
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Osgood

Western Thunderer
I've realised that trying to turn a sheet of embossed stone into a parallelogram using a hot air gun would in turn make each rectangular stone block a parallelogram too - reckon it might look very odd (if I had a sheet I would have tried it to see). Oh well.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Is it possible to use a hot air gun to manipulate sheet material like this stone?
If starting at arch end in this case it would need curving and pulling down at same time, but given relatively low height might be possible.
You probably couldn’t do it in situ given the Plastikard backing structure, but a piece of ply suitably curved might suffice as a curved template.

Practical solution or just hot air?

I've never had much success with applying heat to Wills sheets. They are armour plating grade plasticard! The path of least resistance is cutting along the courses and manually bending each strip. Was far easier and quicker than I thought it was going to be.

Any heat you apply to get the sheet to bend or curve would end up trashing the surface finish by the time the sheet was warm enough to start moving. I do however apply "heat" to the sheets in terms of solvent to get them to merge in to each other and other parts of the structure.

I would love to find a thinner version of these sheets, and alternatives that are larger and have a different finish. I've got at least one sheet if every stone sheet type going from a vast range of sources, still nothing suitable for the station buildings...
 
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timbowales

Western Thunderer
I've never had much success with applying heat to Wills sheets. They are armour playing grade plasticard! The path of least resistance is cutting along the courses and manually bending each strip. Was far easier and quicker than I thought it was going to be.

Any heat you apply to get the sheet to bend or curve would end up trashing the surface finish by the time the sheet was warm enough to start moving. I do however apply "heat" to the sheets in terms of solvent to get them to merge in to each other and other parts of the structure.

I would love to find a thinner version of these sheets, and alternatives that are larger and have a different finish. I've got at least one sheet if every stone sheet type going from a vast range of sources, still nothing suitable for the station buildings...
So, looks like it'll have to be das and a scriber for the station then?
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
So, looks like it'll have to be das and a scriber for the station then?

I suspect a mixture of approaches and materials but it will probably involve a variety of thicknesses of plasticard 'stone' blocks like the porters lodge.

Whilst I'm wanting the station building done, it's not one I'm looking forward to due to the repetition of elements and the sheer number of door and window openings.

Loving the bridge - no door or window openings eating time.
 

timbowales

Western Thunderer
I wonder which would be less time consuming, DAS and a scriber or cutting, preparing and applying individual stone blocks?
Neither will be as quick as applying sheet material :))
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
I wonder which would be less time consuming, DAS and a scriber or cutting, preparing and applying individual stone blocks?
Neither will be as quick as applying sheet material :))

I don't think there's much in it, but they are very different techniques. Some of it depends on what finish you want. I've used and will continue to use both. Horses for courses.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Relax - I've put the safety catch on the hot air gun and it's back in its holster.
Advice coming from someone with your mileage on plastikard construction has a pretty decent provenance!
 

40057

Western Thunderer
Whilst on the subject of bridges, I find this book very useful. Both for remembering what all the parts are called and having lots of prototype photos. Some of the bridge kit manufacturers would do well to have a copy. They would then hopefully avoid stupid mistakes such as the bridge beams floating in mid air between abutments rather than sitting on them. (Looking at you L-cut Creative)

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How right you are! I was looking this morning for a kit for a girder over-bridge for Rowan Colliery (00). The LCUT offering looked exactly like what I want — but your comment had somehow stuck in my mind and I had a second look. I need to find an alternative kit.

I think I would have noticed before buying the magic bridge offered by LCUT.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
How right you are! I was looking this morning for a kit for a girder over-bridge for Rowan Colliery (00). The LCUT offering looked exactly like what I want — but your comment had somehow stuck in my mind and I had a second look. I need to find an alternative kit.

I think I would have noticed before buying the magic bridge offered by LCUT.

They are not the only ones to have magic floating girders, quite a few modellers have done the same thing, but I'd expect basics like that to be right on a kit.

I think you could modify the kit to make it look better but then either you'll need to increase the girder lengths or place the abutments closer together. By which time you might as well scratch built the bridge...
 

40057

Western Thunderer
They are not the only ones to have magic floating girders, quite a few modellers have done the same thing, but I'd expect basics like that to be right on a kit.

I think you could modify the kit to make it look better but then either you'll need to increase the girder lengths or place the abutments closer together. By which time you might as well scratch built the bridge...
Indeed. Trouble is Rowan Colliery is meant to be a small, fun, side-project — not a magnum opus. Hence, the search for a suitable kit. On the other hand, there are, you know, certain standards. I will have to resolve that tension … if I can.

We’re going to need a better kit.
 
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