Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
One of the doors (that which closes first) would have a bolt top and bottom, I believe. The one which closes against it will have only one bolt and this is used to hold the door open.

The lock then holds the door with one bolt shut.

Brian

I've been looking at doors in close-up photos in the Southern Nouveau book and there's no sign of a bolt at the top of the door that opens first. I presume it is on the second opening door instead.

A typical example below from pg338 dated 24-04-51.

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I'll be adding second bolts to the tops of the other doors though.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
New packaging for Wills stuff ?

Yes, quite handy as you can use it to store sheets and bits once open.

The new sheets also don't seem to have the Wills raised logo on the rear and the rear moulding injection points are much less pronounced. Both good points. IMO though the mouldings are starting to show their age, with a few areas where all the sheets show some damage or loss of resolution.
 
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oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I've been looking at doors in close-up photos in the Southern Nouveau book and there's no sign of a bolt at the top of the door that opens first. I presume it is on the second opening door instead.

A typical example below from pg338 dated 24-04-51.

View attachment 102353

I'll be adding second bolts to the tops of the other doors though.
You are correct - the door which opens first usually has one bolt to fix to the floor and is locked in position to the other door by the mortice or inside surface lock. However, the door which closes first usually has a lock top and bottom, one in to the floor and the other in to the beam or frame above the door. There are exceptions, as always.:)

Brian
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
So at long last I think the provender store is ready for a coat of primer.

The roof is fully clad and the barge boards, ridge tiles and finials have been added.

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Doors in the foreground with extra bolts added.

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Ridge tiles cut from paper this time and persuaded to stick through a tag team of superglue and solvent.

Today's top tip: remember which end of the stick went in the superglue pot...:bowdown:
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Primer at long last!

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There were a few extra bits I did before spraying...
  • Beefing up the downpipe brackets
  • Finishing the guttering supports
  • Adding door stops/ latches to the side of the shed
  • Fabricating fixed hinges to mount the doors. 1 at 0deg, 2 at 90deg and 1 at 180deg
I tackled this building next after the wharf buildings as I thought it would be a simple job to finish. Looking at photos though I soon realised that there was lots of detail to add, much of it stuff I'd previously ignored when making a similar building in 4mm for Treneglos.

So after painting, what's the next building to complete? Think it has to be the grain store really. I did start it quite a while back and it will enable me to finish off the ground on this corner of the layout.

Problem I've found with working on the grain store though is its size on the workbench. A real PITA to work on.
 
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Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Giving it a like is very understated, it deserves a craftsmanship button as used elsewhere. Looking forward to seeing the grain store gain some paint.

Cheers Rob, it became a bigger job than I thought but I carried on with it as I was enjoying the build.

Grain Store needs more than paint though. Remaining are:
  • About half the stonework including 2 more buttresses
  • About 3/4 of the roofing which means cutting and placing 2-3000 stone slates
  • 2 or 3 roof lights
  • All the windows, louvres etc. The big square window will need etching.
  • The roof former of the central section - I'm going to redo this as it needs much more sag
On the plus side I now have considerably more research material to work from. The other plus side is that there are no chimneys or further doors to make.
 
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Provender store painting

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
A start is being made on painting the building, concentrating first in the structure above the blockwork.

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Workbench has been cleared of plastic dust and all the tools replaced with paints.

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The framework is just a flat grey at the moment but I've started building up the colours on the walls.

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As everyone seems to recommend them I'm giving Vallejo acrylics a go. Job lot off eBay. Seem nice to work with.

Going to stop now and see what it all looks like in the morning.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Seem to dry very quickly, any tips for increasing the workability of the paint and brush?

I use them on a 'wet' palette. This is one I picked up several years ago but a sponge cloth in the bottom of a shallow tupperware or take-away tub and greaseproof paper or baking sheet on top works just as well.

The cloth can be 'topped up' when it starts to dry out and when you've finished you can close the lid to retain the moisture and re-use later

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When using the Vallejo paints as washes I dip the brush in their (or Tamiya) thinners first then into the clean water to break the surface tension. This also aids the capillary action of the washes.
 
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