Red Caboose GP9 kits - ALL builders/Models/Info/References welcome

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
Yeah, I had the hood side mounted bell in my list before I hit post, but I removed it because I thought I was mixing up the bell with the Southern habit of putting a walkway light in the same position. Guess I should have trusted my instincts.

CSX got units from all over the place as it assimilated any number of railroads. So it doesn't surprise me that the details vary a great deal between locos of the same class.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Indeed, 6033 is Ex B&O and 2652 is Ex CRR nee SBD

2652 was new to SBD and I didn't think they went for hood mounted bells in a big way, yet it clearly had it hood mounted way back then.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Nice, I really must get on with mine....sigh.

Rattle can Halfords grey primer? It's gone on well by the look of things. I've been using Tamiya surface primer recently, that lays really well, expensive compared to Halfords but much smoother finish, that could of course be the can nozzles. I often decant both into a beaker and thin a little before using the airbrush.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
The primer is Halfords Etch Primer its a little bit more expensive than the standard stuff but much better if you ask me.

The Vallejo paint, does that need thinning for use in the air brush ? if so with which thinners, or is it just water ?

Richard
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I didn't think they did an etch primer anymore, they only stock Upol Acid 8 at the local store.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Rattle can Halfords grey primer? It's gone on well by the look of things. I've been using Tamiya surface primer recently, that lays really well, expensive compared to Halfords but much smoother finish, that could of course be the can nozzles. I often decant both into a beaker and thin a little before using the airbrush.

I use Tamiya surface primer and it is finer rather than the can nozzle.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
The Vallejo paint, does that need thinning for use in the air brush ? if so with which thinners, or is it just water ?

It depends on which Vallejo paints you are using.

Their Model Air range does not require thinners as they are formulated for airbrushing. If you are using their Model Color range then these will require thinning. Better off using their Airbrush Thinners and I always add a drop or two of their Airbrush Flow Improver. The latter acts as a slight retardant to prevent the paint drying too quickly and potentially clogging the nozzle.

The pair of my GP9s were airbrushed with Vallejo Model Air acrylics and I use both the Vallejo and MK Interactive acrylic paint ranges all the time.

Also the compressor air pressure does not to have to be set as high used for enamel or cellulose paints.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave

The paint is the model Air range so I will have a practice this evening before painting the ends red. Then the tricky bit of masking the wings !

Richard
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Like Dave, I use Vallejo Air with a drop of their thinners and flow improver, I prefer several thinner layers built up rather than two or three thicker layers.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick

I have ordered some thinners and flow improver, they should be with me tomorrow.

I just need to read Dave's "how to mask it up" again.

Richard
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
The body shell is now painted, I went back to Dave's thread and followed what he did to mask up the body using some masking film. Dave very kindly provided me with his scan of the wings.

First I sprayed the ends red using the vallejo paint which following everyones advice I found to be very easy to use in the air brush

Then I made the masks using the scan from Dave as template, sticking it to the masking film with Prit stick glue and then carefully cutting it out with scissors

Here it is all masked up.

20220312_190852.jpg

The rear end is the easy bit

The wings masked

20220312_124311_HDR.jpg


20220312_190906.jpg


And with all the masking removed

20220314_112635_HDR.jpg

It's not perfect but at this distance it is good enough and the leaks look like the weathered versions you see in photos where the red has started to peel away.

The grey is Vallejo Gray Violet number 71.128 which seems close enough to me, the loco behind is the MTH SD45 so slightly different to that.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Looking good Mr Carr, looking good!

SP grey can be subjective and it varied like crazy in real life, especially as time wore on after shopping.

I like that colour and luckily I have a bottle of exact same paint :thumbs:
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
All looking good Richard :thumbs:. I wouldn't worry about any paint leakage - I had some on my model and being SSW (SP) the weathering took care of this. :)

 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Richard, check your references for your chosen engine, a lot of GP9's lost the pilot foot boards in later life, just too damn dangerous for crew to ride on, there may even have been a SP mandate but I can't find it or the date if it was issued.

If you keep the foot boards then the hose should be tucked into the pockets, again for safety to stop crew tripping over them. I've just checked my 600+ photos, not one engine has loose hoses with foot boards, plenty with loose hoses and no foot boards but not the other way around. That's not to say it never happened, just that I've never seen any proof.

A lot of engines also lost the pockets to leave a flat pilot as well as a bewildering array of ploughs.
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
Federal Railroad Administration mandate, for all railroads. All locos built after March 1975 could not have footboards, and all locos built before 1975 had to have the footboards removed by September 1978.

Poling pockets were mandated out about the same time, but many roads outlawed the practice even earlier.
 
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