7mm Ressaldar's Workshop - a paintshop diversion
- Thread starter Ressaldar
- Start date
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
at long last, I have started work on the conversion of the 121 Bubble car W55035 into Departmental ADB975659 - based around photos found on Flickr.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/22209362@N03/8387267704/in/pool-881284@N21/
It appears that all of the doors apart from one pair on the non-smoking area were all sealed up and their lower hinges handles etc were removed. The non glazed guards doors were also sealed up and possibly the glazed door as well - the gap at the bottom of those doors was 'boarded over'. I have assumed that all seating apart from the non-smoking area was removed (location of the chip and speaker later on). Initially the partitions remained (as will be modelled) but later photos show all removed - although Bachmann managed to locate both partitions in the wrong places, so they have now been relocated.
The only other body work to do was 1) cut holes for the fuel tank filler points and place the castings obtained from Shawn Kay at Easybuild, the trim around these holes is still to be applied and 2) plate over the route indicator boxes, this being done with some 10 thou brass.
I intend using a Zimo 648 00 Gauge sound chip and 5mm dia red/white combined LEDS for markers (the holes are 4.8mm dia so they will need filing down slightly.
I have already obtained a set of Westdale underfloor castings to supplement those fitted by Bachmann, also the buffer beam detailing and the desk units. The buffers - 3 oval + 1 clipped, have been obtained from Northants Model Railway Supplies, having spoken to Graham Jones at Leigh last week-end, sent him the photo on Tuesday - received the buffers on Thursday.
So hopefully, a busy week ahead and then it's just a question of the H33 Restaurant Coach conversion to run with it!
cheers
Mike
http://www.flickr.com/photos/22209362@N03/8387267704/in/pool-881284@N21/
It appears that all of the doors apart from one pair on the non-smoking area were all sealed up and their lower hinges handles etc were removed. The non glazed guards doors were also sealed up and possibly the glazed door as well - the gap at the bottom of those doors was 'boarded over'. I have assumed that all seating apart from the non-smoking area was removed (location of the chip and speaker later on). Initially the partitions remained (as will be modelled) but later photos show all removed - although Bachmann managed to locate both partitions in the wrong places, so they have now been relocated.
The only other body work to do was 1) cut holes for the fuel tank filler points and place the castings obtained from Shawn Kay at Easybuild, the trim around these holes is still to be applied and 2) plate over the route indicator boxes, this being done with some 10 thou brass.
I intend using a Zimo 648 00 Gauge sound chip and 5mm dia red/white combined LEDS for markers (the holes are 4.8mm dia so they will need filing down slightly.
I have already obtained a set of Westdale underfloor castings to supplement those fitted by Bachmann, also the buffer beam detailing and the desk units. The buffers - 3 oval + 1 clipped, have been obtained from Northants Model Railway Supplies, having spoken to Graham Jones at Leigh last week-end, sent him the photo on Tuesday - received the buffers on Thursday.
So hopefully, a busy week ahead and then it's just a question of the H33 Restaurant Coach conversion to run with it!
cheers
Mike
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,
Looks an interesting project. I will be watching this with interest.
.I am particularly interested in how you wire it, so please take some step by step wiring pics as im a dullard when it comes to electrickery
.I have not done anymore on my 121 ( your ex 121 ) because i was looking at radio control and need to speak to Tony at ProtoCab at Telford.
Rob
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
I have at last made a start on the chassis, firstly removing the buffer housings as this particular unit had three oval and one clipped buffer
,, which unfortunately left some rather large rectangular holes that needed to be 'filled in' as the replacement body baseplates were a lot smaller than the holes that I was left with.
I decided that an overlay was the best solution and I found some 15 thou nickel silver sheet which was cut out oversize, soldered on using the RSU for some 'wellie' and then the bottom and ends filled to shape and all cleaned up. The coupling location was then drilled through from the back using the hole in the original beam, with the buffers then marked off from this datum.
I have also fitted the 'missing' engine bits and pieces having first marked out the bogie overhang
The buffer housings, couplings and remaining buffer beam details were then fitted, but time had run out to take any further photos outside, so they will follow - once the rain has stopped and the sun has re-appeared long enough to get the camera out again.
The Zimo sound chip and the LEDs have arrived from Digitrains so with a bit of luck, I'll be burning my fingers wiring everything up soon.
cheers
Mike
.
,, which unfortunately left some rather large rectangular holes that needed to be 'filled in' as the replacement body baseplates were a lot smaller than the holes that I was left with. I decided that an overlay was the best solution and I found some 15 thou nickel silver sheet which was cut out oversize, soldered on using the RSU for some 'wellie'
and then the bottom and ends filled to shape and all cleaned up. The coupling location was then drilled through from the back using the hole in the original beam, with the buffers then marked off from this datum.I have also fitted the 'missing' engine bits and pieces having first marked out the bogie overhang
The buffer housings, couplings and remaining buffer beam details were then fitted, but time had run out to take any further photos outside, so they will follow - once the rain has stopped and the sun has re-appeared long enough to get the camera out again.
The Zimo sound chip and the LEDs have arrived from Digitrains so with a bit of luck, I'll be burning my fingers wiring everything up soon.
cheers
Mike
.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
The sun came out briefly and for once I was ready for it
chassis with all the bits, bar the end steps and long lamp irons - I will source some suitable steps at Cleckers and fabricate the irons from etch fret spares.
close up of the exhaust end, you can just make out the holes for them to fit into
t'other end, the jumper terminals are from Westdale, the buffers from Northants Models, cast pipework from Invertrain , air pipe is a Hlejan 'spare' and the couplings are from Premier
elevation showing the Westdale window surrounds + the handrails that Bachmann left off
close up of the exhaust end. The bi-colour LEDs are a nominal 5mm dia and the id of the housing is approx. 4.8mm dia, so hopefully not too much fiddling to do for an interference fit, I also intend filing a flat on the end of the LED to avoid fitting a 'glass lens'.
Internally, the drivers desk and partitions + the seats in the 'non-smoking' compartment are all that remain - this will all be done once the electricery has been sorted, which will probably follow the painting.
More soon
cheers
Mike
chassis with all the bits, bar the end steps and long lamp irons - I will source some suitable steps at Cleckers and fabricate the irons from etch fret spares.
close up of the exhaust end, you can just make out the holes for them to fit into
t'other end, the jumper terminals are from Westdale, the buffers from Northants Models, cast pipework from Invertrain , air pipe is a Hlejan 'spare' and the couplings are from Premier
elevation showing the Westdale window surrounds + the handrails that Bachmann left off
close up of the exhaust end. The bi-colour LEDs are a nominal 5mm dia and the id of the housing is approx. 4.8mm dia, so hopefully not too much fiddling to do for an interference fit, I also intend filing a flat on the end of the LED to avoid fitting a 'glass lens'.
Internally, the drivers desk and partitions + the seats in the 'non-smoking' compartment are all that remain - this will all be done once the electricery has been sorted, which will probably follow the painting.
More soon
cheers
Mike
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Looking good mate more picture required keep it up
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Excellent Mike.
Yes please to more pics especially your wiring (step by step though, as im 
when it comes to elecktrickery )
Rob
Yes please to more pics especially your wiring
(step by step though, as im when it comes to elecktrickery )Rob
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
while the chassis and bogies are drying after their 'Jif scrub and rinse' I took the opportunity of applying the transfers to the D2046 Inspection Saloon DM45026 - they are my first order (placed in late February) from Railtec and I am very pleased with them. I also applied the white lines to the steps - using Trimline tape.
and the other side and end close-up (sorry about the coupling, I only noticed it when I transferred the photos onto the laptop
it will now get a good run-out this evening at the Club and will appear in the For Sale section here tomorrow.
cheers
Mike
and the other side and end close-up (sorry about the coupling, I only noticed it when I transferred the photos onto the laptop
it will now get a good run-out this evening at the Club and will appear in the For Sale section here tomorrow.
cheers
Mike
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,
That looks excellent
.
The Railtech transfers are nice to use, I used them on my CCT.
You say you used Trimline tape. Where did you get that from (never heard of that ). Is it easy to use and what widths does it come in.
Have you used it on the front edge of the steps and painted the top or vice versa. Or used the tape for both?.
Rob
That looks excellent
.The Railtech transfers are nice to use, I used them on my CCT
.You say you used Trimline tape. Where did you get that from (never heard of that ). Is it easy to use and what widths does it come in.
Have you used it on the front edge of the steps and painted the top or vice versa. Or used the tape for both?.
Rob
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob,
glad you like it.
I ordered the Trimline tape from Blackburn Models (www.blackburnmodels.com) back in March 2009 and as you can see, they cost £2.95 per roll - 2.5 metres long, in eight widths - 0.5, 0.8, 1.3, 2.1, 3.3, 5.0, 7.0 & 10.0mm wide & in eighteen colours, so not expensive.
I have only applied it to the tops of the horizontal treads and the underside of the vertical ones - nothing on the edges.
cheers
Mike
glad you like it.
I ordered the Trimline tape from Blackburn Models (www.blackburnmodels.com) back in March 2009 and as you can see, they cost £2.95 per roll - 2.5 metres long, in eight widths - 0.5, 0.8, 1.3, 2.1, 3.3, 5.0, 7.0 & 10.0mm wide & in eighteen colours, so not expensive.
I have only applied it to the tops of the horizontal treads and the underside of the vertical ones - nothing on the edges.
cheers
Mike
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Cheers Mike
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Another cracker Mike it's good to see you back at the soldering too.
it's good to see you back at the soldering too.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Another cracker Mike
thanks Rob, nobody more pleased than me.
cheers
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
back to the 121 and I have started looking at the 'electrickery' - the LEDs in particular. I bought 5mm dia bi-colour LEDs knowing that I would be filing them to fit into approx. 4.6mm holes - the first thing to sort out was which outside leg produced which colour - the centre leg being the + the resistor was soldered on and using a 4.5v battery pack as a power source, plugged away - and the short leg is white. So I then started filing until an interference fit was achieved, the unit was then tested again - ok result, so I then shortened the legs on the three remaining LEDs, soldered on the resistor and applied the file again.
I'll pay a visit to the local Homebase tomorrow to get some of the bath mastic strip to act as both adhesive and light eliminator.
I've also made a start on the body painting - first coat of Warning Panel Yellow has been applied
Cheers
Mike
I'll pay a visit to the local Homebase tomorrow to get some of the bath mastic strip to act as both adhesive and light eliminator.
I've also made a start on the body painting - first coat of Warning Panel Yellow has been applied
Cheers
Mike
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Great work Mike and thankyou for starting with a step by step on the elecktrickery much appreciated
Look forward to the next installment
Rob
and thankyou for starting with a step by step on the elecktrickery much appreciatedLook forward to the next installment
Rob
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
sorry, I had not seen your post, yes it is, just the weathering wash on the chassis to do, which should be dry by Telford
cheers
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
nearly there now,
The red line in the guards compartment is insulating tape around the motor body, this will be removed as part of the DCC wiring and as the motor body is a silver/grey, it should not notice too much, especially as there is a partition to go behind the driver at this end (it was not removed until 1987 and I am working to a 1984 photograph) windscreen wipers, buffer steps, lamp brackets, glazing, aluminium paint to the exhausts, a few seats + the glass to the lamps just about finishes the easy bit + some light weathering - then the driver's consoles + the lights and DCC wiring. I am going to try mounting the lights on Vero board (as the lower part of the console) and that should hold them in place. Not yet decided as to where to put the chip, if I keep the number of seats down, it could go on the floor, otherwise, it will be under the roof and mini plugs and sockets will be used to allow easy body removal for maintenance purposes.
A short day tomorrow as it is a Club running session on Wednesday afternoon.
cheers
Mike
The red line in the guards compartment is insulating tape around the motor body, this will be removed as part of the DCC wiring and as the motor body is a silver/grey, it should not notice too much, especially as there is a partition to go behind the driver at this end (it was not removed until 1987 and I am working to a 1984 photograph) windscreen wipers, buffer steps, lamp brackets, glazing, aluminium paint to the exhausts, a few seats + the glass to the lamps just about finishes the easy bit + some light weathering - then the driver's consoles + the lights and DCC wiring. I am going to try mounting the lights on Vero board (as the lower part of the console) and that should hold them in place. Not yet decided as to where to put the chip, if I keep the number of seats down, it could go on the floor, otherwise, it will be under the roof and mini plugs and sockets will be used to allow easy body removal for maintenance purposes.
A short day tomorrow as it is a Club running session on Wednesday afternoon.
cheers
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
the Club running session was cancelled, so I nipped down to Maplin at Cheshire Oaks for some bits and pieces and made a start on the lights when I returned.
I had done a 'dummy run' using some old Vero board that was in the drawer, but the copper strip centres seemed a tad on the large side and meant bending the LED legs to fit into the holes, the Maplin version seemed much better and when I returned, I was pleased to find that the LEDs fitted straight through. It also meant that I could remove the top and bottom strip which meant that I would not have to worry about any shorting when the unit is fitted in place.
showing at the rear, the copper clad strips cut back and ready for the LEDs to be inserted and at front, the business side with a piece of 20thou plasticard cemented on to eliminate light bleeding through once the unit is in place - the console desk will sit on top and will hopefully be a good fit around the window frames and stop any light bleed there.
the electrickery installed
red - yes really, looks better in the flesh as it were.
white - I have used 0.6w - 1.5k resistors, so hopefully will not look too bright when the lens glasses are fitted
the electrickery at the back - I have wired it up for the 'rear lights' top row, common return middle row and headlights bottom row. I know that the top row should be purple to comply with 'convention' but I did not have any purple wire thick enough to use 'structurally' - I have the chip already fitted with a plug, so the harness wire open ends will be soldered onto the pins in the recognised colour coded manner on the right (there are only three, (two have cast a shadow to lake it look as if there are five). I have used these mini plugs & sockets to enable the body to be removed from the chassis for maintenance.
The LEDs are an interference fit into the bezels, so should only need minimal assistance with blue tack or the like to keep them in position.
The fun will start tomorrow when I find a suitable location for the chip and speaker - watch this space
cheers
Mike
I had done a 'dummy run' using some old Vero board that was in the drawer, but the copper strip centres seemed a tad on the large side and meant bending the LED legs to fit into the holes, the Maplin version seemed much better and when I returned, I was pleased to find that the LEDs fitted straight through. It also meant that I could remove the top and bottom strip which meant that I would not have to worry about any shorting when the unit is fitted in place.
showing at the rear, the copper clad strips cut back and ready for the LEDs to be inserted and at front, the business side with a piece of 20thou plasticard cemented on to eliminate light bleeding through once the unit is in place - the console desk will sit on top and will hopefully be a good fit around the window frames and stop any light bleed there.
the electrickery installed
red - yes really, looks better in the flesh as it were.
white - I have used 0.6w - 1.5k resistors, so hopefully will not look too bright when the lens glasses are fitted
the electrickery at the back - I have wired it up for the 'rear lights' top row, common return middle row and headlights bottom row. I know that the top row should be purple to comply with 'convention' but I did not have any purple wire thick enough to use 'structurally' - I have the chip already fitted with a plug, so the harness wire open ends will be soldered onto the pins in the recognised colour coded manner on the right (there are only three, (two have cast a shadow to lake it look as if there are five). I have used these mini plugs & sockets to enable the body to be removed from the chassis for maintenance.
The LEDs are an interference fit into the bezels, so should only need minimal assistance with blue tack or the like to keep them in position.
The fun will start tomorrow when I find a suitable location for the chip and speaker - watch this space
cheers
Mike
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
This is great work Mike.
If i may can i ask a couple of questions ( these may be obvious to most people and probably very stupid to ask)
What size wire have you used from the vero board to the plug?.
What size are the plugs you've used and where did you get them from?.
Again a big thanks Mike for this step by step it is really going to help me
Rob
.If i may can i ask a couple of questions ( these may be obvious to most people and probably very stupid to ask)
What size wire have you used from the vero board to the plug?.
What size are the plugs you've used and where did you get them from?.
Again a big thanks Mike for this step by step it is really going to help me
Rob
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob,
glad it is of help, but I'm afraid there is a large slice of 'the blind leading the blind'. involved here, and a lot of black coffee
As for the wire size, they are Maplin 'jumper cables' about 75mm long and originally had pins soldered and shrouded at each end, I did bend the pins at one end and then soldered them onto the Vero board, but two then snapped off when I was more or less just looking at them, so I removed the part of the pin that was still soldered to the board stripped off a bit of cover and soldered them directly to the board. The mini plugs and sockets are from All Components (www.allcomponentsltd.co.uk) these and the two pin version that I ordered at the same time are both 0.95 each - neither have any size references, they are also available in 4, 6 & 8 pin versions. In the last photo, the plug is not pushed right home into the socket.
cheers
Mike
glad it is of help, but I'm afraid there is a large slice of 'the blind leading the blind'.
involved here, and a lot of black coffee As for the wire size, they are Maplin 'jumper cables' about 75mm long and originally had pins soldered and shrouded at each end, I did bend the pins at one end and then soldered them onto the Vero board, but two then snapped off when I was more or less just looking at them, so I removed the part of the pin that was still soldered to the board stripped off a bit of cover and soldered them directly to the board. The mini plugs and sockets are from All Components (www.allcomponentsltd.co.uk) these and the two pin version that I ordered at the same time are both 0.95 each - neither have any size references, they are also available in 4, 6 & 8 pin versions. In the last photo, the plug is not pushed right home into the socket.
cheers
Mike