7mm Rob Pulham's Work Bench - Back (again) to the LNER 06 (MOK 8F)

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Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:
Cheers Graham, you do know how to make a chap feel good - my head may explode with that lot.
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Not sure what to make of that Rob :confused:.

Knowing how little space is available on the prototype.... and how complex is the arrangement of the spring hangers for the leading axle... and aware of the form/fit/function of the castings which are available.... then you have every right to feel proud of the achievement. That you have made such a good job of a DJH kit in O-FS is icing on the cake.

Rob Pulham said:
What I will be doing is checking out the frame spacing before fastening it together, to make sure it all will fit in. So that I don't have to remake the cylinders. But in fairness I think when I get t the A4 it will have to be a Finney so I would hope that it's not an issue.
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I hope that when you get to building your Finney A4 - have you given Chris the order details? - that Peter will have completed his frames with the brake rods / levers / shafts from Ragstone. Mind you, maybe life will be easier for Peter because Merlin is being built to the broad gauge ;).

regards, Graham
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Good oh. I hope we both live long enough to see it ;). If I did one it'd be 'Kingfisher', I think...

Steph
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Is that a hint at how long this one has taken Steph?:p

Phill Dyson said:
Gresley in Garter Blue without full valances or any of the BR green later survivors would do for me :cool:

Phill :)
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I rather fancy Silver Link in it's original form. Or Golden Eagle in Green with the black smoke box to the first boiler band, rather than the parabolic curve - both with full valences of course. And then any one of the Garter blue (the one and only true Blue) ones:thumbs: - D.O.C. appeals because of the bell too.
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Speaking as someone who has both in the unbuilt kit pile mountain (I mean, someone's got to do a comparative study:) ), I would suggest neither is perfect, and ideally, you need to take the best bits of both.

Finney's underframes are poor (relatively speaking), but I think his loco body is spot on. The Piercy underframe has castings from the Tony Reynalds stable, so more is there in the way of castings. The tender is a toss up, but again, the Piercy undergubbins is better. I also think the quality of the Finney etches is better.

If I had to pick one for my desert island layout, it would be Finney with Ragstone extras.

Richard
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I haven't yet decided which way to go with the chassis but I know I will need to do something. Todays efforts have been on the valve gear. One side assembled and it has been a bit of a challenge to get all the rods to clear each other.

PapyrusValvegear001.jpg

PapyrusValvegear002.jpg
 
Old Buffer

Old Buffer

Western Thunderer
It's starting to look even better, the painted wheels really do look well. It's too big and complex for me though.
Alan
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Old Buffer said:
It's too big and complex for me though.
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Thanks Alan.

It might be worth mentioning at this point that it is only the 4th Loco that I have built (2 in 4mm and 2 in 7mm - I suppose 2 and a bit as I have the chassis for the 06 well on it's way:p ) and it's certainly my first go at Walchearts motion.

So don't let big and complex put you off if its a prototype that you fancy. There is always plenty of help freely given on here and the guild if the going gets tough.

I have a minor problem that I may be asking for help on if I cannot crack it this morning.
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
I know you're having a few problems Rob but it really does look great and a hard won victory is a more rewarding one :thumbs:

ATB Mick
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Guys,
I am viewing it as a valuable learning experience particularly around the chassis and compensation/springing etc.

The valve gear hasn't presented many problems other than DJH's crap instructions telling me to tap the reversing crank 12ba when the cast bolt has a 14ba thread - guess who found this out too late? So I tapped a piece of brass tube soldered it in and all is well with the world. Not too big an issue but time consuming.

Other things I have had to do is reverse the tapped crank pin bush on the front axle to act as both bush plus retaining nut as the rods were catching and add some washers to give clearance in other areas.

One of the fiddly and almost unseen bits is the making of bush(?) to slide in the slot as show on the view below. DJH's answer was a 14ba screw holding the whole together. I didn't like the slop that this gave so I cut a strip of brass and drilled it to clear the screw at either end then cut a couple of pieces off having first filed them to fit the slot - they are that small I would have had not chance of making them fit after I cut them off:headbang:

Expansion Link - papyrus annotated.jpg

Without taking a real close up I am not sure that it is even visible at 2' but it should make for less running problems I hope.
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
After receiving an offer to run my tank wagon (as yet a shelf queen:rolleyes: ) on Assenby St Peter at Doncaster show. As how that I couldn't make this year. After a follow up invite to see the layout in an expanded guise at Ormsby Show, which I can make. I decided that rather than just take my tanker I would like to have something to run on it - The A3 is much too big (it's very much a tramway) and I am not sure that I will have the chassis sorted in time, so I decided to bite the bullet and build the Connoisseur Y6 that I got for Christmas. The plan being, to see if I could get it built and running in time for the show on 31st March/1st April and then paint it later.
I didn't stop to take photo's as I went along but now I have finished I have taken some pre painting - I do hope to have it painted as well for the show.

Most of it follow's Jim's instructions even down to his basic suspension using a pivot for the front axle. Where I deviated from this was by the use of roller bearings and a piece of brass tube that goes over the roller bearing and allows for the axle movement via the pivot. The tube I had in stock was a bit big for the bearings but Jim includes some etched spacers in his kit to allow his bearings to be brought away from the chassis to minimise side play. I soldered a couple of these to each end of the tube and then reamed them out to take the roller bearings. My good lady bought me a Mashima motor and Jim's gear box to go with this but I elected to keep that for a project where I could use a flywheel and used the etched frame that Jim includes with all his loco's (I think) and a Roxey worm and gear along with a cheap Canon motor (all of £7 from ebay). The only other alterations were to tap the crank pin bushes 10BA and fit 10BA bolts/nuts to the wheels.

LNERY6014.jpg

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For the roof detail. I replaced the white metal bell supplied with a brass one from the spares box (originally from Mike I believe:thumbs:). The instructions have you using 0.9mm rod for the supports for the supports for the 0.45mm rod used for "operating" the bell. I decided to use some 34gauge brass wire twisted into a cord using a pin vice and a spare piece of rod. This I soldered to an arm which was soldered into a hole drilled in the bell and bent to shape. I used a couple of long handrail knobs for the supports and thought it would be nice to be able to "operate" the bell from the cab at each end. To enable this I fitted a small piece of tube through the roof at each end and fed the cord through the handrail knob and down through the tube. The intention is to create a loop at each end for the crew to pull.
LNERY6001.jpg

The body is built as per the instructions with a minor addition. It is suggested that the body could be glued on post painting - I didn't fancy this idea so I tapped some tube 10BA and soldered four pieces in place under the side windows where they wouldn't be seen once the body and roof is on and four corresponding holes in the footplate and some brass 10BA screws and we have a removable body.

LNERY6005.jpg

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The footplate and boiler again had a few additions - sprung brass buffers (again from Mike), a nice cast water gauge from Hobbyhorse (again from the spares box), and some Premier screw couplings. Having made the body removable I elected to solder the boiler in place.

Jim recommends strengthening the side skirts as and aid to handing even suggesting using old rail for the job. I used some spare lengths of 00 nickel rail for this and then had a DOH!! moment when I couldn't get the cow catchers to fit as I had made them too long. After trying in vain to remove 10mm from each end while in situ, I warmed them up with the microflame and pulled them off. It was then the work of moments to shorten them and put them back - after fitting the cow catchers (once bitten!). Having fitted the safety chains while the buffer beams were on the becnch I need to take a couple of links out of each to stop them dangling on the track.

LNERY6012.jpg

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And the finished article - apart from shortening the safety chains

LNERY6021.jpg

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Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Well done Rob, a very nice result. We have one here... and I recollect that our buffers were cast w/m so they were replaced by GER types from John Shelley. Our frame was built "solid".... and with the minimal clearance between rail and front guard there have been some sparks as the engine bobs along.

What livery will be carried by your engine?

regards, Graham
 
Steve Cook

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Nicely done Rob :) I've got a set of etches for one of these in S, but no castings - its been good to see what you get in the 7mm version for future reference :thumbs:

I'm almost loathe to ask, but how long has it taken you to build so far?
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham,
It will be in LNER livery.

I assume that your is S7? having added the pieces of rail to strengthen the skirts there isn't much clearance between the crank pin nuts and the pieces of rail - I don't think that it would have cleared with the extra width of S7. I could have used something else to strengthen it to be fair but having the rail and the suggestion......:eek:
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:
Rob said: "... used the etched frame that Jim includes with all his loco's (I think) and a Roxey worm and gear along with a cheap Canon motor (all of £7 from ebay)..."
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Rob,

I'll be interested to know how that combination works as the motor you're referring too is a lower power and lower revving version of the Canon 1833 that's available from ABC, Roxey or Branchlines. On paper it's all but identical to the performance of the Mashima 1833, rather than the extraordinary version that's routinely available to us...

Steph
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Steve Cook said:
Nicely done Rob :) I've got a set of etches for one of these in S, but no castings - its been good to see what you get in the 7mm version for future reference :thumbs:

I'm almost loathe to ask, but how long has it taken you to build so far?
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Hi Steve, I started it a week last Saturday - so two weekends and about 2 hours each night through last week.
 
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