Trade SDMP/Finney7 - Driving a Geep?

lancer1027

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
That looks very interesting teph. This could be my way forward.:).

I look forward to more progress with pics;) of this development.:thumbs:

Also if this works out could you let me have a price please.

Rob:)
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Rob, Martin,

Here's a hastily drawn view of how I'm aiming for it to all fit together. The 1833 sits happily in/behind an engine, with the shaft extended towards each bogie. The u/j uses a set of my own silicone tube 'ball drive' components. The propeller shaft runs pretty much at scale height making it easy to disguise (as a propeller shaft, strangely enough). The items in green are a set of brackets for the motor and (ball race) bearings; they're on the test etch tucked in among the new releases. The outer brackets can be combined neatly and inoffensively with the castings Easybuild provide for the gearboxes.

The only problem with this approach that I can currently see is that once the underframe detail castings included in the kit are in place there isn't much room for anything else, although I do have an idea or three about how to get a sound chamber discretely in place (I'm hopeful it can be made up to do a good impression of the fuel tanks). Good points include the fact that there's only slight tweaks required to the bogie frame and no encroachment in to the cabin space.

Bubble v05.jpg

This should also work with other manufacturers' DMUs of course...

Steph
 
lancer1027

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
Steph, this looks great i think you've cracked it my friend.:bowdown:

However i have added some extra detail underneath so i would have to modify it:rolleyes::oops:. Still a least i know its going to work:D. Right best start saving:thumbs:. Any idea yet Steph ?

Rob:)
 
Pugsley

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
Good stuff - I've got a 108 here that I was planning to do something similar with, so it's good to know that my train of thought (pun intended) was along the right lines (again, totally intended) :D
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Right just finished these, the set of wheels for my Bubblecar (thread coming soon, honest). So here we have a split axle wheelset with gearboxes attached for a DMU. All have been wired, filled, blackened and assembled this evening. If I'd done them yesterday I'd probably have had them painted too.

Please note these gearboxes were built yesterday; so I didn't use the one shown above. The blackening has to be done before fitting the ball race bearings.
IMG_8650v1.jpg

Right nighty-night all; see you at Reading tomorrow!

Steph
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Hi guys, I've been looking at pricing and currently I can offer:

The gearboxes (Blines 13:1 Remote) at £25ea (as a kit) or £40ea (built up - you provide me the 3/16" axle to build the gearbox on).
The motor bracket (MB01) looks like it'll be about £3.35; including a ballrace to allow fixing of a Canon 1833. It will also take any of the Mashima 18xx-series motors.
The driveline brackets (DB01) will be about £5.60; that's for a set of three, including three ballraces.

The gearboxes are in stock now and available for order at the prices indicated above (and on the website). MB01 and DB01 should be available by Bristol show and I'll confirm prices on these as soon as I have them nailed down.
I'm happy to quote for more integrated approaches, up to and including a complete powered chassis. Price on application; please drop me a PM or email steph@stephdale.co.uk if there's something specific you have in mind.

Cheers,
Steph
 
lancer1027

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
Steph, do you have any pics of the whole gearbox to motor so i could see the drive shaft and how it connects.

Do you supply the drive shafts of would i have to source my own. ow much are they etc.

Sorry for these dumb questions :oops:

So for my needs it would be as follows....

2 x gearbox £50 (kit)
1 x motor bracket £3.35
1 x set driveline brackets £5.60

plus drive shaft £ ??

Rob:)
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Rob,
No pics as yet - I'm still working my 121 up to that point.
In terms of drivelines/couplings the drawing shows a need for four universal joints - these could be mine, Slater's, Exactoscale, Branchlines etc. The only issue with them is that they need to be telescopic (square tube/rod or use the Branchlines sets) and suitable for operating at a high angle; this is what allows the bogie to turn.
Driveshafts in the underframe (as supported by the drive brackets) could be anything of 2mm diameter; aluminium tube works well. I'm suggesting nothing any more tricky than silicone tubing to join the sections together as the tubing will cope well with any misalignment.
There will be more on this shortly as I work up my model.
Steph
 
lancer1027

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the info Steph. I will look forward to the pics soon.:thumbs:

Rob:) ( getting rather excited as my bubblecar should be the first running radio controlled vehicle on my garden railway )
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Guys,

A small update seems in order as I now realise that the sprung 8'6" bogies may be a little delayed after a recent deep thought review led to some concerns about assembly and the ability of the bogie to cope with top heavy models on rough truck (i.e. preventing an uncontrolled roll, which at speed could cause a derailment). Review over, lateral thinking applied and I've now got a design which is probably easier to assemble, will be easier to split axle (if that's your particular thing) and will overcome any nasty oscillations. I think it will be worth waiting for if you've got a loco that can make use of it. The compensated version is still on-schedule, with a test assembly expected for the Bristol show. With the frets not yet laid out I can't advise on prices yet, but I'll confirm that as soon as I can.

Usefully, the design principles of both bogies extend to different wheelbases and wheel arrangements so these can be produced in the future if required. They could also be tailored to fit specific prototypes or even specific kits.

The DMU underframe progresses slowly; there's been a great deal of interest in how it goes together and I'm currently sourcing components to complete the drivelines, which I know is a concern for some. It'll be good to be able to give some specific advise and when I've got something to report you'll see it here first. Well, actually probably in a new thread; you get the general idea!

A number of other components are now nearing completion of the design stage, ready for release in early 2014. More about those when I've got something to show you. Regular readers of this thread who've also visited the website may well be able to deduce from earlier comments where we're going with that. And no, it's still not a pannier tank :D

As ever, do drop me a line if I can help out with any of my products and an email to the SDMP email address (steph@stephdale.co.uk) with 'subscribe', 'newsletter' or similar as the subject will get you on my email list. This will give you an occasional email newsletter and notices of products as they become available throughout the New Year.

Steph
 
S

SteveO

Guest
No rush from me Steph, I have plenty more distractions!

My most immediate need is for four 1824 motor-bogies (compensated or not, with a preference for not) for my two JLTRT Class 17s I plan to build early in the new year, but there's plenty to do before I get to that stage.

As always, looking on with interest.
 
lancer1027

lancer1027

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,

Just a quick line to ask how the DMU is coming along? Have you took any pics of assembly of the underframe with driveshafts etc.

Sorry to keep asking, all it is is that i have fully kitted my underframe out and need to know how it all goes/fits so i knw where i need to remove stuff etc.
I have posted a couple of pics showing the underframe with pen markings showing where i think i need to remove.



DMU 2.jpg

DMU 1.jpg
Rob:)
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Rob,
My apologies for missing your post and as I think you're now on the way to completing your model, I guess some of what follows may be a touch superfluous. But, here goes; I think you're broadly correct in what you're looking to remove, although the motor doesn't have to go in the centre of the underframe and could, in fact, replace one of the engines. In that case the fuel tank can remain (or in my case provide a sound chamber). The gearboxes might make good disguises for the ends of the propellor shaft, and be the 'jumping off point' for the universal joints which run to the bogies.

All,

The next test etch is due back from the etchers shortly, after completing generation of the file yesterday evening. Included in the test etch are the following:
Gearboxes for Romford gears 30:1, 40:1 small, 40:1 large, 54:1 (slot/tab construction, ball-raced).
Gearboxes for Markits gears 13:1, 20:1, 26:1, 40:1 (slot/tab construction, ball-raced).
Motor brackets for remote mounting of Mashima/Canon 18xx-series motors.
Drive brackets for ball-raced mounting of 2mm drive shafts.
Hornguides for use with Slater's insulated square bearings (2 types for discussion/evaluation).

I'll preview the various bits and pieces here so I can gain your feedback. Of course, if any of the parts are found not to work for any reason then I'll update the artwork before they go on general release. It's just possible I'll have some pieces to talk about at the York show if anyone's going and wants to see them. The aim is to be ready to take orders before Cleckheaton.

Sorry about the wait, it's taken a great deal of effort to get this far. I know no-one will believe me, but there's a lot more to designing a fold-up gearbox than most people in this business do. I'll be interested to see what you make of the ones I'm doing!

Cheers,

Steph
 
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