Trade SDMP/Finney7 - Driving a Geep?

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Guys,

Well, the time has come - new gearboxes and a little something extra...!

Yes the test etch arrived this afternoon:
IMG_8696v1.jpg

And here's a brief run-down of what we have. In no particular order we start with the self-contained Markits-based gearboxes, these are available for 26:1 and 13:1 (top), 40:1 and 20:1 (bottom). Although originally considered for diesels or similar applications, they also strike me as a good way to get a powerful drive in to a steam loco or helping with tricky applications. I shall be having a good look at suitability for locos like the 9f as I build these; surely the epitome of both 'powerful' and 'tricky'. They'd also be worth considering for articulated locos if only one motor is required.
IMG_8697v1.jpg

These little beasties are probably the highest risk items on the fret, it'll be interesting to see whether I got the mesh between the first and second stage gears correct. Those of you who have been asking about the projected drive for inside motion can also wish me luck here; if these work we'll have them available relatively quickly. 15mm centres (for Canon 1833) on the left, 12mm centres (for some Canon 1833 and all Mashima 18xx-series) on the right:
IMG_8698v1.jpg

For those really tricky and smaller prototypes we now come to a set of gearboxes using the Romford gears. These have a choice of backplates for 15mm, 12mm and 10mm (Mashima 16xx and 14xx-series) centres and provide ratios of 30:1, 4o:1 and 54:1. Combining the latter with the Mashima 1426LS (from Branchlines) seems a great way to get really smooth slow running in very small locos. Incidentally, there are two sizes of 40:1 gear, one of which uses the 30:1 spacing, the other is a bit bigger, which sounds useful to me:
IMG_8699v1.jpg

For DMU under-floor drive or for help with those tricky locos there are a set of driveline brackets (top) and a motor bracket set, the latter fitting Canon 1833 or Mashima 18xx-series:
IMG_8701v1.jpg

Back to the Markits gears again; this time 20:1 and 40:1 with 10mm, 12mm or 15mm motor fixings. These are aimed as a drop-in replacement for the Roxey gearboxes, although these are narrower (only 13.2mm across bearings) so easier to use with split axles or Delrin drive.
IMG_8702v1.jpg

And here's the 13:1 and 26:1 equivalents of the 20:1/40:1 'boxes above; should be useful for diesels with conventional Delrin drive:
IMG_8703v1.jpg

And finally, the 'extra' item is a hornblock to use with the Slater's 'insulated square bearings' (Item 7961). These are configured as a like-for-like replacement for Slater's erstwhile 7960 insulated hornblocks. Two styles were drafted to see how they'd etch up and work out. I can already see that the one on the left is a non-starter, but the one on the right looks very promising:
IMG_8704v1.jpg

I'll update the thread as the test builds progress. For clarity I'll add that these are all etched in 0.028" (0.7mm) nickel-silver and the gearboxes use ball races to support the various shafts.

Expressions of interest are welcomed to help me plan out the production frets. Thanks for looking!

Steph
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Steve, Mike,
Thanks for your comments!

Here's a quick run-down of the order of assembly after checking all the frets and building one, in this case the Markits 40:1 for Canon 1833. Likely to be a popular combination; I have the hand-built prototype for this in my Springside 2251. A smoother, quieter loco you will not find. Oh, and it's got a great deal of 'grunt' too.

Start by checking the fit of all the holes. There are seatings for the bearings and few washers which need checking, I use reamers to retain speed and accuracy but a little care and a fine round file (or emery paper around a suitable dowel) will work fine.
Then remove the main part from the fret, form it in to a box and twist the tabs to lock it in place. The reinforcing fillets and lid can then be folded in to the box. At this point it should be square and self-supporting, like this:
IMG_8714v1.jpgIMG_8715v1.jpg

Then a good slosh with flux and run a fine, hot iron with good-quality solder over all the joins and folds you can get to, this provides additional reinforcement. After a quick rinse of the flux the two twisty tabs can be cut off and the back of the 'box rubbed down flat (wet-and-dry paper, used wet on a board). A quick rinse to get rid of the sanding grot gives you something like this:
IMG_8716v1.jpgIMG_8717v1.jpg

Crack out the Loctite 603 and fit the bearings with any spacing washers, tissue off the excess and leave to cure:IMG_8718v1.jpg

Fit the gears and their associated washers to the axle and the motor. There's an easy way of doing this which will be detailed in the instructions. Test fit the motor in the gearbox:
IMG_8719v1.jpg


Adjust the mesh of the gears and tighten the motor screws when happy. In these shots you can see how narrow the 'box is at just 13.2mm over bearings (and the associated split in the split axle) as well as a good broadside to see how it all fits together:
IMG_8720v1.jpg
IMG_8721v1.jpg

All in all, very pleasing. I'll crack on with the other bits and pieces as I can, update the artwork and hopefully they'll be ready to go very shortly...

Oh and before anyone asks prices should be within a pound or two of the equivalent Roxey gearbox and assembled versions will be available in due course.

Steph
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
Looks very handsome! When it comes to the "bog-standard" 1833 sized motor, is there any reason to pick a Canon over a Mashima (or other make) for the difference of a few quid?
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Looks very handsome! When it comes to the "bog-standard" 1833 sized motor, is there any reason to pick a Canon over a Mashima (or other make) for the difference of a few quid?

A lot more power (nearly 4w vs. roughly 2w) and they have a faster no-load and max-torque speed. It's horses for courses really. In this combination they're great for main-line locos, the Mashima will work well with a 40:1 in a shunter, giving lower speed and where less power is not a problem. I should add that there is a touch more variety in the Mashima range as they're available in 24, 30 and 33 mm lengths so if space is a problem they often represent a good choice. Incidentally the 1830 is a superb power unit if the spec suits...

Very nice indeed Steph.. I'm guessing I need the high risk versions for the N7's?

JB.

Unfortunately yes. And it's unfortunate as although the boxes fit together well, the centres are out by a smidge (zero tooth clearance) so it appears the published dimensions are out by a few thou. I know what I need to do now though and will prepare a test etch for the revisions very soon. I'm still aiming to get them out with the others. If the single-stage Markits 40:1 I've just built is anything to go by they'll be worth the wait. I hope so anyway, I need a few of them for upcoming projects!

Steph
 
S

SteveO

Guest
Is it easy to adjust the mesh Steph? Is it something you feel or hear when it's right?
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
Thanks Steph, great info! I've used Mashima motors for years with no real hassles/desire for anything more... but you never know what else is out there if you don't ask!
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Is it easy to adjust the mesh Steph? Is it something you feel or hear when it's right?
Yes, and yes! The advantage with these nice rigid gearboxes is that when fitting the motor you're only dealing with the mesh of the gears. No wobbly construction, no sloppy bearings. All that you need to do is ensure you get smooth, even, quiet rotation of the axle with the minimum backlash (slop/clearance) between the gears.

Thanks Steph, great info! I've used Mashima motors for years with no real hassles/desire for anything more... but you never know what else is out there if you don't ask!
In the right installation the Mashima is a very good little unit. If it suits your prototypes then it's a good choice; it's also stonking value for money!

Steph
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Great work Steph, they all look spot on. As requested I'm wishing you luck with these, although it doesn't seem needed :thumbs: will you have 2251 at the Northern Show, it would be great to see one working in a loco. I only ask as I have a J25 on the bench and it may be I could use a similar set up there ?

ATB Mick
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Mick,
I'll definitely have the 2251 chassis with me at Cleckheaton as it's my demo piece for inside motion, the complete loco is less likely as it's stripped down ready for painting.
I should have the planning templates for the new gearboxes available shortly; they're pretty much done assuming I don't find any major foul ups with the etches. You'll then be able to compare with your J25 and see if it fits. Unfortunately it's not a prototype I'm familiar with so I'm really not sure.
Steph
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
I'd like four sets for the LMS twins, please. And I'll want to use the horblocks - no question! Particularly as they'll save me having to buy 20 sets of old design from David White!

Well done. These look great.

Dad/Brian
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Er, 'ang on a mo Dad!
I thought you wanted to use the previous gearboxes in your locos?
I'll take the order for twenty sets of hornblocks though, once I've checked they work...!
Steph
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Er, 'ang on a mo Dad!
I thought you wanted to use the previous gearboxes in your locos?
I'll take the order for twenty sets of hornblocks though, once I've checked they work...!
Steph

I just want new gearboxes and matched motors for each of them. Once I have them I'll order new chassis. I'll transfer the dummy outside frames to the new chassis.

As far as the hornblocks are concerned, once you've confirmed their viability, I'll definitely be in for an order. Whether it'll be an initial 20 sets I'm very doubtfull! I've managed to get hold of some of the old Slaters version - at least enough for the next two builds I think. My guess is that there are enough users of this design of hornblock for a few initial sets - in fact I'll use a set on the next A3 if they are available in time. Any thoughts on price yet, as I'll no doubt have to cross your hand with silver?

Dad/Brian
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Yesterday evening was pretty productive; I thought I'd better have some gearbox samples made up 'just in case'...! In due course I'll build one of every style to confirm they're okay, but for the moment I'm just building up the ones I think are likely to be most popular. More on this later in the thread, but todays headline is that the hornguides work.

There will inevitably be more detail in the instructions, but here's the quick assembly guide. I'll throw is the key dimensions as I go so you can see how they'll suit your application.

First job is to drill all the holes while the fret is together, it's easier to do it with something to hold on to. The production versions will probably be set up on a fret of six, so would be easier still:
IMG_8723v1.jpg

Then separate the parts, form the main hornguide and runs a bead of solder around. Don't worry too much if the holes fill with solder, being soft metal they're easy enough to open out again:
IMG_8725v1.jpg

Here's the view from the back, you can see the flange formed at the top of the guides, which can be used as a datum; 7.5mm above axle centre height and 11 mm wide. Of course, this face can also be sanded back if you prefer to fit them without the guidance the flange offers:
IMG_8726v1.jpg

Tap the holes. You can see the purpose of the extra hoop on the top of the hornguide - this keeps the tap (and later, screw) in line. The main adjusting screw is 12BA, the two for the retaining strap are 14BA. Incidentally, the strap is optional (so too it's fixing) and can be replaced with a length of wire or even soldered up permanently:
IMG_8729v1.jpg

This is the view from the frame side, showing the flange referred to above is slightly wider (11mm) than the width of the guide on the bearing (10mm), so cutting a frame to take these hornguides is relatively straightforward:
IMG_8730v1.jpg

And here's a face-on view from the inside of the hornblock so you can judge the overall shape:
IMG_8732v1.jpg

Steph
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
And so to the gearbox samples. The good news is these have all made up well, but there are a few small changes I will make before they go to production. Here's a brief look at the ones I've made up so far.

Canon 1833, Markits 20:1 in 'Mkits 40/15' frame
IMG_8733v1.jpg

Mashima 1824, Markits 40:1 in 'Mkits 40/12' frame:
IMG_8734v1.jpg

Canon 1833, Romford 30:1 in 'Rford 30' frame:IMG_8735v1.jpg

Mashima 1833, Markits 13:1 in 'Mkits 26/12' frame:IMG_8736v1.jpg

Mashima 1420, Romford 54:1 in 'Rford 54' frameIMG_8737v1.jpg

The are some conclusions to be drawn already. The 'Rford' frames are pretty much ready to go at the moment although I can close up the 30:1 gearbox which will make it smaller and more rigid. The Romford gears are surprisingly good and offer some interesting solutions for some prototypes. Both the 54:1 and 30:1 here run very smoothly and offer ratios which are both useful and not all that readily available. For reference the gearbox width is coming out under 14.5mm across bearings.

The Markits gears are exceedingly good and the 13:1 is a really good option for diesels, particularly if you're comfortable with using Delrin chain drive. The narrow width (13.2mm) of these 'boxes makes them very useful for combining with split axles and/or Delrin drive. The 40:1 version with the Canon motor looks like a good solution for main-line steam locos up to and including Class 4, and using it with the Mashima 1833 will give very good performance for a shunting loco.

It looks like I've got a busy (but fun) couple of weeks preparing the production photo tools and completing builds of the test gearboxes.

Steph
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Nice work Steph. There's something very satisfying about designing stuff on the PC, then getting the physical results in your hands a week or so later. Incidentally, what software are you using these days given that PPD no longer seem to accept artwork done via TurboCAD? I have several finished drawings with nowhere to go....


Regards

Dan
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Dan,
Still generated on TurboCAD, but exported as .dxf rather than .tcw
It's not actually a change to my workflow; with any artwork it makes sense to export it in a generic format to ensure the recipient can open it.
Steph
 
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