Well, you have indeed brought that Class 50 to life . I particularly like the staining directly under bodyside grills. Immensely authentic.The latest weathering I’ve completed and technically from an era I remember well; out of the box Heljan Class 50 NSE.View attachment 194962View attachment 194963View attachment 194964View attachment 194965View attachment 194966
Thanks - I'm starting to do a little work in oils and its very effective - and therapeutic!Chris; the weathering on the body sides was done exactly as you ask with oil paints and lots of streaking-blending with soft flat brushes.
The roof of the 50 was initially applied by airbrush, followed as you say with weathering powder application. This I set using further application of the airbrush - very gently - followed by further thin layers of airbrushing over that and then for the exhaust etc.
Hope this is useful.
I found that, happily work the paints around for quite a while!Thanks - I'm starting to do a little work in oils and its very effective - and therapeutic!
Chris
SteveI keep looking back at that Class 50 and finding new subtle streaks, stains or colours! Have you weathered many diesels, do you have a preferred method of fading paintwork?
I found that, happily work the paints around for quite a while!
I certainly have that in my weathering reference box too. Pelle's work is impressive.Steve
This is something I’ve shared here before, but probably the simplest method of replicating faded paintwork is to spray the surface with thinned white paint, acrylic being the best as you can dry each coat with a hairdryer as you go to speed up the process.
Pelle Soeburg, a European modeller modelling in American HO, is an exponent of the art and uses it to attain the chosen weathered result in the shortest space of time, hence the title of one of his books on the subject: Done in a Day.
Here’s a photo from the cover of his book that shows a representation of a BNSF, formerly red in the main, diesel that’s been exposed to the harsh Californian sunshine, to give you an idea:
View attachment 197104
I recall he fades the uppermost surfaces more than the others to achieve the most realistic effect before progressing to other techniques.
Of course, it’s not as detailed as Neil’s work, however, it’s aimed at the modeller short on time or skill and I think is worth a go just to familiarise yourself with the technique and to judge whether it’s for you, as I mentioned, in a very short space of time.
jonte