4mm & 7mm Llanfair ....
- Thread starter LarryG
- Start date
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
Still waiting for a new signal box kit, so I took advantage of the sun and plotted a few buildings between the loosely laid tracks. Even if the station building was pushed hard against the backscene, there would still be insufficient room for the goods shed at the front of the layout.
Seeing as the station takes up a lot of width, it makes sense to place the goods shed in the available space at the back of the layout. The perennial problem on the 4mm layout was the signalman's view past the goods shed. This has been solved now....
The next move is to acquire a 7mm scale lorry to test the 'road' space behind the box. Shed roof is not attached as yet...
Seeing as the station takes up a lot of width, it makes sense to place the goods shed in the available space at the back of the layout. The perennial problem on the 4mm layout was the signalman's view past the goods shed. This has been solved now....
The next move is to acquire a 7mm scale lorry to test the 'road' space behind the box. Shed roof is not attached as yet...
LarryG
Western Thunderer
I've now started on a wagon kit.....It's all a bit scattergun while waiting for stuff. This Parkside kit was an impulse purchase to keep me occupied, Following instructions, I did the axleguards first and glued them to the solebars. The two grooves in the floor for the solebars were too narrow so were opened out...
Once glued in place, the chassis was set up between books while it dried out overnight...
Assembling brake gear with pincers, wagging tongue and Mekpak took a while even though I played safe and drilled out all the holes oversize. While most of the instructions are to one orientation, the brakegear drawing is upside down. I doubt it is assembled correctly...
Then I came to the joker in the pack. At no point was Part No.3 mentioned. Part No.3 happens to be the chassis frame!!!
The framework was cut into 6 parts and glued to the floor. I glued it upside down, not that the drawing showed there was a flange on one side! It gets worse. The parts are numbered on the sketches but are not numbered on the sprue.
Once glued in place, the chassis was set up between books while it dried out overnight...
Assembling brake gear with pincers, wagging tongue and Mekpak took a while even though I played safe and drilled out all the holes oversize. While most of the instructions are to one orientation, the brakegear drawing is upside down. I doubt it is assembled correctly...
Then I came to the joker in the pack. At no point was Part No.3 mentioned. Part No.3 happens to be the chassis frame!!!
The framework was cut into 6 parts and glued to the floor. I glued it upside down, not that the drawing showed there was a flange on one side! It gets worse. The parts are numbered on the sketches but are not numbered on the sprue.
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Focalplane
Western Thunderer
I bought two fruit vans for Moor Street, the sort that brought Guernsey toms to Brum. I half built the first. I think the second would go together better if I could remember what I learned not to do on the first half of the first.
My current HO Intermountain kit is more complex but has extra small parts, good instructions and is prepainted. I bought it a long time ago, the plastic is much more rigid.
My current HO Intermountain kit is more complex but has extra small parts, good instructions and is prepainted. I bought it a long time ago, the plastic is much more rigid.
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oldravendale
Western Thunderer
As far as proof reading is concerned I'd have agreed with you five years ago. Now I've done some I realise how easy it is to miss something. In fact as far as I can see all instructions are a work in progress becoming more refined as time goes on and as customers comment on areas which are less easily understood. I assure you that I take great pride in endeavouring to get them right first time but doubt I've ever achieved it.
Apologies for the diversion, Larry.
Brian
Apologies for the diversion, Larry.
Brian
LarryG
Western Thunderer
The component parts are okay so they need better and more explanatory exploded diagrams (the artist couldn't make his mind up on orientation within the same drawing). It is the important matter of being able to identify component parts and see how they go together. But when it comes to assembly of wagon brakegear etc, some streamlining is needed to reduce the number of parts.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Parkside kit instructions were one of the better ones but since Peco took them over they have been 'modified' .
Not for the better .
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
The brake gear that I have always found tricky is the Parkside Toad (Not the Peco one) and I have made more than one but always found it difficult to interpret the diagrams hope they have improved. Oh and I think the yokes on the righthand axle maybe should go under the axle so the pull rod connects to the crank over the axle.
Thinking about it I think that the yokes should go under the axles in all cases and the pull rods and cranks should be inboard.
When maintenance or building was being carried out the wheel sets should be able to be dropped out, makes it easier to model too. There is a prototype photo of how things were done (in this case not GWR) on RMWEB on the thread for Bourton on the Water.
Thinking about it I think that the yokes should go under the axles in all cases and the pull rods and cranks should be inboard.
When maintenance or building was being carried out the wheel sets should be able to be dropped out, makes it easier to model too. There is a prototype photo of how things were done (in this case not GWR) on RMWEB on the thread for Bourton on the Water.
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
Thank good ness the underside will be in shadow 
. The black parts are a tougher plastic and do not adhere well, which is why they're dropping off. Ah well, plastikard to the rescue.....
Finished as far as I can go until I order some lost wax fittings.....
Have left the lavatory top window open. Plenty of lessons learned.........
. The black parts are a tougher plastic and do not adhere well, which is why they're dropping off. Ah well, plastikard to the rescue.....Finished as far as I can go until I order some lost wax fittings.....
Have left the lavatory top window open. Plenty of lessons learned.........
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Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
I think the black parts are probably from ABS which is why MEKPAK won't work terribly well, best to use Butanone (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), cheaper as well.
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Yes and you can actually make them work too
LarryG
Western Thunderer
I cut a piece of thick glazing to fit the aperture of the fixed window but did not apply glue. Instead, it was trapped in place by a piece of glazing that covers the droplight as well. Bigger glue area!
Finished as far as I can tell. It represents a horsebox not long in traffic after a BR repaint.....
Finished as far as I can tell. It represents a horsebox not long in traffic after a BR repaint.....
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
7mm equivalents of the 4mm lorries are required but I decided to go 6mm seeing as road space is limited. First dealt with was the Scammel mechanical horse, a neat Corgo model and not expensive....
The areas where I wanted to apply Methfix transfers were sprayed over with Halfords Rosso Red so the trasnfers would 'key'. 'British Railways' and the numerals came from an HMRS 2mm sheet. The trailer was resprayed with my carmine red mix and both units were weathered underneath...
The areas where I wanted to apply Methfix transfers were sprayed over with Halfords Rosso Red so the trasnfers would 'key'. 'British Railways' and the numerals came from an HMRS 2mm sheet. The trailer was resprayed with my carmine red mix and both units were weathered underneath...
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
Which couplings do you 7mm guys use......?
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Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Try painting the window frames black and cutting some Vivak sheet to make new windows?
