SimonT
Western Thunderer
My daughter has delivered a copy of Moving the Goods; full of interesting photo's but a little scattergun. The Aberbeeg photo is somewhat unusual, does anyone know if ABC do a gearbox for motorising a 7mm human figure or three? It could be the all time slowest shunting move.
Simon
Simon
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SimonT
Western Thunderer
Time to break my silence and to return to the subject of the 8750. You may remember that I was considering my options. Time to share some of the evidence that I was considering. Firstly...
You can see the accurately modeled bunker beading that scales out to a highly accurate 4 inches wide. Hmmm..
Secondly..
Well aside from the damaged beading (which I've never seen like that) the rivets are more suited to a shipyard than Swindon works. They also have the attraction of being ten times the size of the rivets etched onto the new footplate etchings. The pencil marks are where I am trying to reconcile the cast brass handbrake housing with the generously sized hole. Thirdly....
More riveting heaven. Some rivets are sunken, some show the edges of holes as if a rivet has been pushed into an over sized hole. Fourthly ...
The cab beading is now available in both three and a half and four inch depths.
Lastly and probably most significantly, I want to build a metal model of a metal object. So I did this....
All this drawing was further developed to give me a set of paper patterns to start producing this. Of course my piercing saw is calibrated to .01mm!
Thanks to some of the work being posted by some of the contributors here, I am trying to raise my game and feel that I am now producing something far better than any early work and better still, I am finding it rewarding and satisfying. Thanks for the inspiration lads.
Now, a question. I now need to solder the cab interior and back into the cab shell so that I can build up the bunker. The plan at the moment is to paint the interior while it is accessible and to place masking tape over the openings from the inside to prevent later paint from drifting into the cab. Soldering up with 145 shouldn't damage the paintwork. I still have no idea about the window glazing. Suggestions please?
SimonT
PS The bunker back is only placed on the support structure while I trim it to fit and I still need to add the vertical rows of rivets.
PPS The resin cab is destined for Room 101 unless someone can make better use of it.
You can see the accurately modeled bunker beading that scales out to a highly accurate 4 inches wide. Hmmm..
Secondly..
Well aside from the damaged beading (which I've never seen like that) the rivets are more suited to a shipyard than Swindon works. They also have the attraction of being ten times the size of the rivets etched onto the new footplate etchings. The pencil marks are where I am trying to reconcile the cast brass handbrake housing with the generously sized hole. Thirdly....
More riveting heaven. Some rivets are sunken, some show the edges of holes as if a rivet has been pushed into an over sized hole. Fourthly ...
The cab beading is now available in both three and a half and four inch depths. Lastly and probably most significantly, I want to build a metal model of a metal object. So I did this....
All this drawing was further developed to give me a set of paper patterns to start producing this. Of course my piercing saw is calibrated to .01mm!
Thanks to some of the work being posted by some of the contributors here, I am trying to raise my game and feel that I am now producing something far better than any early work and better still, I am finding it rewarding and satisfying. Thanks for the inspiration lads.
Now, a question. I now need to solder the cab interior and back into the cab shell so that I can build up the bunker. The plan at the moment is to paint the interior while it is accessible and to place masking tape over the openings from the inside to prevent later paint from drifting into the cab. Soldering up with 145 shouldn't damage the paintwork. I still have no idea about the window glazing. Suggestions please?
SimonT
PS The bunker back is only placed on the support structure while I trim it to fit and I still need to add the vertical rows of rivets.
PPS The resin cab is destined for Room 101 unless someone can make better use of it.
Bachmann in 4mm have a detachable bunker see the pics here, there may be a similar 'break' you could engineer whilst still having a slide in section for the cab interior. The bunker on my conversions here is held on by PVA glue to allow the seal to break for mx
https://albionyard.wordpress.com/dcc-sound-pannier-conversion/
Re the glazing laser cut it if you have the scale drawings you used a good laser cutting chap ( I know one), might take a commission and be able to run a couple of sets off for you. Failing that bung a hard copy scale drwg in the post and I'll hand cut a set for you in exchange for beer.
The thought strikes me if the JLTRT cab needs a makeover like that, there may be a small market for an ST conversion etch.
https://albionyard.wordpress.com/dcc-sound-pannier-conversion/
Re the glazing laser cut it if you have the scale drawings you used a good laser cutting chap ( I know one), might take a commission and be able to run a couple of sets off for you. Failing that bung a hard copy scale drwg in the post and I'll hand cut a set for you in exchange for beer.
The thought strikes me if the JLTRT cab needs a makeover like that, there may be a small market for an ST conversion etch.
SimonT
Western Thunderer
Paul,
I hadn't thought of making the split at the horizontal joint, mine is at the vertical joint. I will have to think it out. The rear wall is an interference fit on the cab roof/side and this might change if the back of the side is not anchored to the footplate. The 22thou NS sheet will behave differently to the 1mm so of plastic. My diesel shunters use matt varnish to accomplish the same job as your PVA which is fortunate as the odd window gets pushed in and needs refixing.
The drawing was used to cut out the NS sheet with piercing saw and not to produce some etchings. It could evolve into etches relatively easily. I am planning to produce etched platework for the 94XX as I need three of them to work as bankers and it would save me time to have them etched, so your photo will be of use!
Simon
I hadn't thought of making the split at the horizontal joint, mine is at the vertical joint. I will have to think it out. The rear wall is an interference fit on the cab roof/side and this might change if the back of the side is not anchored to the footplate. The 22thou NS sheet will behave differently to the 1mm so of plastic. My diesel shunters use matt varnish to accomplish the same job as your PVA which is fortunate as the odd window gets pushed in and needs refixing.
The drawing was used to cut out the NS sheet with piercing saw and not to produce some etchings. It could evolve into etches relatively easily. I am planning to produce etched platework for the 94XX as I need three of them to work as bankers and it would save me time to have them etched, so your photo will be of use!
Simon
SimonT
Western Thunderer
Progress from the electronic side of the work bench. These are the newly printed eccentric rods and straps for the Drummond T9; I think I got all the nuts and bolts in that Steph wanted to see. Now off to Laurie for the casting process and then to Nick for the build.
Simon
Simon
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Simon,
They look very good! Is the quality much better than shapeways? I'm just about to flesh up a centre cylinder for the A3/A4/W1 projects and think that the current shapeways resolution acceptable for 'cast' items.
Your items above would be machined, in which shapeways might not be the prefered supplier.
They look very good! Is the quality much better than shapeways? I'm just about to flesh up a centre cylinder for the A3/A4/W1 projects and think that the current shapeways resolution acceptable for 'cast' items.
Your items above would be machined, in which shapeways might not be the prefered supplier.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
I'm not sure about that; after all we haven't put the costs of my time in to the project.
Mind you, I'm not sure exactly what difference 27p makes to your calculations...
Steph
SimonT
Western Thunderer
Mick,
The only items I had printed by Shapways were in FUD and showed the layers well. David Rayners pieces are of a different order from Shapeways. I gave up on Shapeways when they told me that the rodding stools, designed to their limits, wouldn't print. A couple of hundred later on my printer ........!
Simon
The only items I had printed by Shapways were in FUD and showed the layers well. David Rayners pieces are of a different order from Shapeways. I gave up on Shapeways when they told me that the rodding stools, designed to their limits, wouldn't print. A couple of hundred later on my printer ........!
Simon
SimonT
Western Thunderer
With RailEx looming large, I have taken a break from breathing Flair varnish fumes as I titivate the vegetation on Aberbeeg, to do some wagon fettling. AJC gave me a shove by showing his beautiful work on the coils so I thought it was time to get my bum in gear and progress some of my stock. Hence the opens now have properly painted coils of steel. One of the Coil Js now has a load covered by blue plastic, the other is open. I have just finished making hoods for the Coil L and for the Coil Rs. The Coil Rs need numbering and other markings before a bit more weathering. The hoods are made from paper and painted in acrylics. The Coil T has a plastic hood that is currently receiving some Green Putty to try to replicate the folds on the real nylon hood. As a result I will be running some mixed coil trains on of which is based on a photograph sent to me by Adam.
Right, back to the fumes!
Simon
Right, back to the fumes!
Simon
