7mm BR Diesels

[Cliff Williams]

Lee I remove the material from the box, leaving a rebate on the edge to stop the glazing going right through. Then I make a plate up with a 1.9mm internal diameter tube in brass to hold a 1.8mm grain of rice bulb. WOrks well for headcode lettered boxes. If it is a plated box you can get off with one hole to line the bulb up.
Sadly LEDs only ever really look like LED, which is why I use incandescent run at a low level to give that dull look.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Sorry to hijack Lee....
Cliff, do you know what size bulbs I would need for my Hymek marker lights, and where I can buy them please?
Thanks,
Richard

 

[Healey Mills]

Lee I remove the material from the box, leaving a rebate on the edge to stop the glazing going right through. Then I make a plate up with a 1.9mm internal diameter tube in brass to hold a 1.8mm grain of rice bulb. WOrks well for headcode lettered boxes. If it is a plated box you can get off with one hole to line the bulb up.
Sadly LEDs only ever really look like LED, which is why I use incandescent run at a low level to give that dull look.

Thank you for that Cliff, most helpful. I intend to have the headcode with the 'domino dots' but I do like your idea of removing the headcode back area so that I can illuminate them. I guess as you run the grain of rice build at a low voltage they are less likely to overheat.

Thanks once again
Lee

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I guess as you run the grain of rice build at a low voltage they are less likely to overheat

Or use a resistor in the circuit.

Personally I would use surface mounted LEDs and resistors. LEDs have the advantage that they run cooler and last longer than bulbs.

 

[The Penguin Of Doom]

Hi Lee.

Model is progressing well but like you, I had a break and aquainted myself with D213 at the NYMR gala. Didn't she look/sound super!

Sean.

 

[Healey Mills]

Hi Lee.

Model is progressing well but like you, I had a break and aquainted myself with D213 at the NYMR gala. Didn't she look/sound super!

Sean.

Thanks Sean. Yes, 13 was excellent!! A great day out and the owner has done such a superb job of the restoration.

I thoroughly enjoyed Sunday and I'm looking forward to this coming Saturday on the ELR.... 3 x 40's on the same rake of stock..... the makings of an enjoyable day out!

On the model loco front, I've still quite a bit to do on 40060 as I have just managed to get all the underframe back together today and sprayed the nose fronts yellow. I used RM304 and at the moment it looks so wrong as it's a very pale yellow.... I do hope another couple of coats changes that!!

40126 is just about assembled running wise so now I need to concentrate on the bodywork and in particular that horrible damage on the No 2 end.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Lee,
Why do you wish to model your class 40 with damaged panels? Clearly locos became damaged from time to time, but it seems such a shame when you put so much effort in to building excellent models!
I know we may choose to weather our locos, but inflicting damage, to me, seems a step too far!
However, it's your model and you can finish her as you please. It may just look as though you have dropped it!
Ps.... I may model my class 22 with missing lower panels.......
....Running for the door before being classed as a hypocrite!!

 

[40126]

Hi Lee,

I will be watching your 'damage' work with interest.

Steve

 

[Healey Mills]

Hi Lee,
Why do you wish to model your class 40 with damaged panels? Clearly locos became damaged from time to time, but it seems such a shame when you put so much effort in to building excellent models!
I know we may choose to weather our locos, but inflicting damage, to me, seems a step too far!
However, it's your model and you can finish her as you please. It may just look as though you have dropped it!
Ps.... I may model my class 22 with missing lower panels.......
....Running for the door before being classed as a hypocrite!!

Hi Grumps,

Thanks for the compliment but with 40126 the damage was quite obvious and anyone that knew the loco in it's last few years knew it by the scars on the No 2 end. If it doesn't work then I'm sure Laurie at JLTRT will help out, if it does work then it will look quite good. The damage that needs to be replicated isn't too bad and I think I can reproduce it in a subtle way.... as Pugsley mentioned earlier. Not only that, it will (hopefully) improve my skills as a modeller

Still lots to do so watch this space, as they say

Cheers
Lee

 

[The Penguin Of Doom]

3 x 40 = 120.....

Sadly that minor inconvenience called work prevents my release for finer things on Sunday.....

 

[Stoke5D]

Or use a resistor in the circuit.

Personally I would use surface mounted LEDs and resistors. LEDs have the advantage that they run cooler and last longer than bulbs.

I have been experimenting a bit with cab lighting and headcode lights etc. and I have decided that warm white surface mount LED's give the best overall result, work best with DCC and are cheap too... I agree that normal 'white' LED's don't mimic traditional Diesel era low wattage filament bulb lighting at all but the warm white with the right resistors in circuit do to my eyes. You do have to experiment a bit, both with location and resistor values.


Andrew

 

[Cliff Williams]

Fill your boots here for the bulbs, I buy them in 100 packs!
12volt 50ma Small Grain of Wheat Bulbs

 

[Healey Mills]

It seems like I'm finally getting somewhere now with the 40060 build. Today I managed to get the yellow nose paint on after a small false start. Initially I had used RM304 which is supposed to be for diesels pre 1984, however with two coats on the paint seemed way too 'yellow', almost lemon in appearance which I would have thought correct with pre-TOPS loco nose colours. So in the end I had to resort to what I had used before which was RM202. It seemed about right with the small amount of orange in it:



I'm not sure my camera has portrayed the colour correctly as it appears 'all' orange here!! I shall look at it again once dry and then if not happy re-spray with a 50-50 mix of the two paints.

The underfame, bogie frame and side frames are now done too, so I can start to put these back together. All the pipework and gauges were picked out and detailed.... although why I bother I have no idea, as the loco will be weathered in the really grimy finish that my pictures show:



In addition to that lot, 40126 is now complete with regards underframe and will be put into the paint shop very soon (as soon as the box above is vacated by 060 ). I just have the last few cuts to do on the split axles for this loco too and it will then be ready for a test run prior to painting.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers
Lee

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

I agree that normal 'white' LED's don't mimic traditional Diesel era low wattage filament bulb lighting at all but the warm white with the right resistors in circuit do to my eyes.

I paint my white resistors with a yellow glass paint I purchased from a local hobby shop. I applied the paint in thin layers until I achieved the 'yellow glow' which looked about right for incandescent bulbs.

 

[Healey Mills]

Tah-Dah!!! After 6 coats of blue, 40060 emerges from the paint shop:



Rather than spray all the bogies and underframe a nice satin black then leaving it like that for a while as I admire my handy work, I figured I'd just get on with the weathering. This also allows me some time to experiment and try things out, if it doesn't go right then it'll be a case of out with the satin black spray again Using a few photos that I have I made a start on the chassis, boiler water tanks and the bogie side frame.:



The bogie frame weathering is only really at stage 1, I think there will be several stages as when looking at pictures it would seem there is a multitude of shades, colours and textures to them. My next stage is to attempt to replicate the grease and oil that seems to be dominant on the inboard half of both bogies. This seems quite prolific on the boiler water tank too!!

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Lee,
Have you used masking tape on the Windows, or are the Windows not in yet? (Sorry, I can't remember if this is the loco you tried the new glue on)
If the glazing is in and masked, what have you used?
The paint looks excellent! Glad you are having a bash at weathering

 

[Healey Mills]

Hi Lee,
Have you used masking tape on the Windows, or are the Windows not in yet? (Sorry, I can't remember if this is the loco you tried the new glue on)

Hi Grumps,

The windows aren't fitted. I make some identical windows from card, fitting these snugly into the frames and then using masking tape behind them. It's belt and braces I guess but it seemed to work well last time for me so I've used the same method.

The 'new glue' was just used on a spare piece of the glazing and some old redundant resin pieces.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Grumps,

The windows aren't fitted. I make some identical windows from card, fitting these snugly into the frames and then using masking tape behind them. It's belt and braces I guess but it seemed to work well last time for me so I've used the same method.

The 'new glue' was just used on a spare piece of the glazing and some old redundant resin pieces.

Cheers
Lee

Thanks for the info Lee. I find it a tad strange having to fit the glazing before painting....but how do you fit the glazing once the loco is built?
Sorry if this is obvious, but I will be at this stage before long....

 

[Healey Mills]

Thanks for the info Lee. I find it a tad strange having to fit the glazing before painting....but how do you fit the glazing once the loco is built?
Sorry if this is obvious, but I will be at this stage before long....

I haven't fitted the glazing before painting for two reasons:

1. Not that good at masking (yet)
2. I prefer to have the windows out to add the rubber window surrounds (with a chisel marker pen)

The glazing is really easy to fit once the loco is built... at least in the case of the class 40. I have made it even easier this time by not fitting the consoles. Once all the painting/ weathering is complete I will remove the cardboard cut-outs (save them for the next build ) and then simply push each glazing pane into place. Last time I glued with glue n glaze, but this time I shall probably try the no-odour Cyano.

The class 20 I built was a pain to get the glazing in because of the dual consoles but even that was possible. I would check and have a trial with your Hymek as having not built one of those I cannot vouch for the complexity. Perhaps someone on here has built one and may clarify????

Hope this helps.

I'm currently researching how to create oil/ grease and oil/ fuel effects on locos, just browsing the Martyn Welch book..... but if anyone has any top tips please feel free to post!!

Cheers
Lee

 

[DougT]

I'm currently researching how to create oil/ grease and oil/ fuel effects on locos, just browsing the Martyn Welch book..... but if anyone has any top tips please feel free to post!!

Cheers
Lee

Not tried it myself yet but have a look at the video on weathering with powders on the Humbrol website. There's a nice technique for getting oil staining on a fuel wagon which may work on a loco for a leak or spill.