7mm BR Diesels

daifly

daifly

Western Thunderer
Healey Mills said:
I'm wondering what the maximum radius one of these locos should be able to negotiate without any problems?
Click to expand...

Healey Mills said:
Hmmm, ok not much response to my last post... I guess not many people have built and run these JLTRT class 40s????? I'm now coming around to the thought that they are probably only good for 2000mm radius curves!!
Click to expand...
In defence of the rest of the readership we may have been confused by your earlier post. The maximum radius is a straight line - a curve of infinite radius. Most well-built locos should be able to negotiate a straight piece of track!
Dave
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
daifly said:
In defence of the rest of the readership we may have been confused by your earlier post. The maximum radius is a straight line - a curve of infinite radius. Most well-built locos should be able to negotiate a straight piece of track!
Dave
Click to expand...

Sorry for the typo, I made a mistake in my request for information.
 
Yorkshire Dave

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Healey Mills said:
Well, I've moved onto another quandry...... having printed out the headcode dots, it would seem that they are quite pixelated when illuminated. I have drawn them in MSWord which I suppose isn't the best software for said task. I was wondering if drawing the headcode background and dots on 'vector' drawing software would help... or is it all down to my printer?
Click to expand...

Could you not just punch the dots out of a black decal sheet using a sharpened tube of suitable diameter? This should give a 'clean' circle.

Otherwise decals http://fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/locomotive-headcode-markers-63913
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Lee, Dave,
That's a good idea - sharpening tube is simple to do too; just dress the end off and then use a countersink to put an edge on the inside of the tube. You can even use it in a drill to make the holes...
Steph
 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Lee, Dave,
That's a good idea - sharpening tube is simple to do too; just dress the end off and then use a countersink to put an edge on the inside of the tube. You can even use it in a drill to make the holes...
Steph
Click to expand...

If you put the chamfer on the outside of the tube you know what the inside dia. will be, though.

OzzyO.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Hi Lee,
This may seem obvious but as I haven't built a resin loco before....
When fitting the glazing do you:
A. Run glue around the edge of the glazing
B. Run glue in to the frame
C. Fit the glazing 'dry' and run the glue in to the gap between glazing and frame?
My driver figures will be with me at the weekend so should be able to crack on now!
Thanks,
Richard
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard,

I always do a few dry fit practices before I open the glue. Now bare in mind that I have only used Glue n glaze before so I have no knowledge using the cyano stuff. Once happy with the glazing fit I use a small brush to put a thin bead on the inside facing frame, then carefully position the glazing piece in situ (using tweezers). Once happy I allow the glue to dry holding the pane in place using a pencil with a rubber on the end. I found this grips the pane and means my fingers aren't spreading any glue anywhere.

Once dry I then go over the edges of the pane with more of the glue, several times if needed allowing each coat to dry.

Hope that helps

Cheers
Lee
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Thanks Lee,
I had a go using the new glue, and it works a treat...unless you are a twit and get it on the glazing material!
I used a scalpel and ran the glue in the trough, then held in place. I then went round the joint with the scalpel and more glue. On a couple of occasions, the glazing slipped, hence glue on the glazing :-(
I'm going to make up some new panels tomorrow and be a tad more careful!
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
...unless you are a twit and get it on the glazing material!
Click to expand...

Ha, lots of scope for me to c*ck it up then!!!

I'm still busy spraying the third 40 at the moment but I'm hoping to get the glazing into 060 at the weekend..... well, if I don't get dragged off to KWVR for 37075 on Saturday :)

I've also been trying various methods for reproducing the headcode box dots. So far nothing I've tried I'm happy with, if I use paper to print the dominos the grain of the paper is visible when they are illuminated. I tried punching holes out of a thin piece of black plasticard (I don't have any black decals) and placed that behind dots (decals) on the front of the glazing... that didn't work well either.

I really need to find some white acetate or white OHP sheet. On the other site (which I don't really go on much anymore) it was suggested to use a white plastic 'paper' medium..... that sounds perfect, but can I find any... no!! :(

So more methods to try I guess before I reach a solution I'm happy with. Perhaps I'm over complicating this????

Oh well... back to the spraying.....

Cheers
Lee
 
Last edited:
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
What you need is a thin piece of clear plasticard, cut to the shape of the headcode, spray the rear surface with a thin layer of white paint, on the front add a black decal with holes cut for the dot positions, fix to locomotive, apply light from behind.

If you place the LED right behind the white dot area it'll illuminate the thin paint easily.

If you don't have any white paint then some white decal applied to the rear surface will suffice, to cut bleed through on the black you may need to tone the LED down or add a second layer of black decal over the first.

Mick D
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
Hi Lee,
Have you tried these.....
Railtec Transfers - waterslide model railway transfers (decals) for 4mm/OO gauge, 2mm/N gauge, 7mm/O gauge and all other gauges and hobbies
Click to expand...

Yes, I have those already. They look a tad too big but I have a nice sharp hole punch to reduce them a little :)

mickoo said:
What you need is a thin piece of clear plasticard, cut to the shape of the headcode, spray the rear surface with a thin layer of white paint, on the front add a black decal with holes cut for the dot positions, fix to locomotive, apply light from behind.

If you place the LED right behind the white dot area it'll illuminate the thin paint easily.

If you don't have any white paint then some white decal applied to the rear surface will suffice, to cut bleed through on the black you may need to tone the LED down or add a second layer of black decal over the first.

Mick D
Click to expand...

Mick,

Thanks for your idea.. white decals I have!!!

Cheers
Lee
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Not sure how good the surface is on what will be the backside of the decal, if it's no good then add it to another piece of clear plastic and place that behind the first piece so the top side of the decal faces outward.

So, one sheet with the black decal with holes in, a second with white decal on.

Mick D
 
Healey Mills

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Not sure how good the surface is on what will be the backside of the decal, if it's no good then add it to another piece of clear plastic and place that behind the first piece so the top side of the decal faces outward.

So, one sheet with the black decal with holes in, a second with white decal on.

Mick D
Click to expand...

Thank you Mick.

Another brief interlude from spraying 126 and I've managed to put 060 back together as the varnish is nice and dry (headcodes are temporary):

40060 out of paintshop No. 1 end.jpg
40060 out of paintshop No.2 end.jpg
40060 out of paintshop side view.jpg

I really need a Shawplan roof grille now, get some glazing in and then start chucking lots of dirt at the finished loco :)

Cheers
Lee
 
SteadyRed

SteadyRed

Western Thunderer
I can almost hear it gently whistling as it sits waiting for its next turn.

I was lucky enough to spend much of my youth traveling behind 40s.

Yes it needs more grime, also some really low powered, cab lights, that yellow dim light which class 40s always had.

I''l get mi coat

Happy days
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
richard carr

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Lee

It's too late for a shaw plan roof grill as you also need to file the roof flat around the grill and thats already blue.

Richard
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Richard,
I was looking at that in a different context, but wondered whether just the grille and frame could be used over an existing roof hatch?
Steph
 
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