7mm BR Diesels

[richard carr]

Steph

When I fitted mine I concluded that you couldn't and spent a pleasant hour sanding down the roof very carefully so as not to lose any detail from other sections.
It does look better but there is fair bit of effort to get it to look good.

Richard

 

[Steph Dale]

Richard,
Well understood, I'll look for that in my future builds. Certainly the Extreme Etchings parts look like the effort is well spent. Thanks for your thoughts.
Steph

 

[Healey Mills]

Steph

When I fitted mine I concluded that you couldn't and spent a pleasant hour sanding down the roof very carefully so as not to lose any detail from other sections.
It does look better but there is fair bit of effort to get it to look good.

Richard

Hi Richard,

With my last 40 all I did was use the grill part.... it simply plonked in place. I know what you mean about using the surround, but at least using the grill is better than what is provided (much finer).

Cheers
Lee

 

[Healey Mills]

I can almost hear it gently whistling as it sits waiting for its next turn.

I was lucky enough to spend much of my youth traveling behind 40s.

Yes it needs more grime, also some really low powered, cab lights, that yellow dim light which class 40s always had.

Cab lights are going to be fitted, along with working head and individual tail lights.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Healey Mills]

A rather pleasant day on the KWVR today:



...and I still managed a second spray coat on the underframe and the yellow nose ends of 40126 too

Cheers
Lee

 

[Healey Mills]

Day trips out of the way and on with a bit more work on 40060. I've managed to get the doorway handrails done and the glazing:





For the glazing I used some of the non-blooming Cyano glue from Deluxe materials. I was a little reluctant to use it but it's done what it says on the tin!!! Another nice attribute is that if (when) you get glue all over the glazing, you can simply let it dry then gently scrape it off with a cocktail stick or similar..... guess how I discovered that?

I think the next job is pop a few of Pugsleys decals onto the cab bulkhead and console... yes I know I should have done that ages ago, and it would have been much easier, but hey never mind. Once those are done, along with an overcoat of varnish then it will be time to start weathering the loco as the body work varnish has had over a week to harden now. I feel a little more confident that the varnish won't all come off and allow the decals to be damaged now.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I wish I had thought to scrape the glue off my windows, it was fun glazing them all again
You'd loco is looking very nice, I like the finish, almost seems s shame to get them dirty !!

 

[Healey Mills]

... almost seems s shame to get them dirty !!

Yes, I know what you mean but when I compare pics of ex-works versus weathered they do look better with a bit of muck on them.

I have been wondering whether to add a final coat of matt varnish to the locos. Something I've noticed that many of the professional builders seem to do and the results are rather good with a 'flat' finish. But then I look at pics of the real locos, and they aren't all with a flat finish... they have glossy areas, satin areas and downright matt dirty areas to them too. Jury's out!!

 

[Brian Daniels]

Looks very nice and I would say leave the finish you have and weather over it. Look at the picture of it on Haymarket with a nice shine but a bit of muck on the bogies and grills. One thing I noticed though is that does not have overhead warning flashes by the cab doors but I see you added some there, have you a pic of them there? Notice it's still got a full set of worksplates too.

 

[Healey Mills]

Looks very nice and I would say leave the finish you have and weather over it. Look at the picture of it on Haymarket with a nice shine but a bit of muck on the bogies and grills. One thing I noticed though is that does not have overhead warning flashes by the cab doors but I see you added some there, have you a pic of them there? Notice it's still got a full set of worksplates too.

View attachment 57455

Hi Brian,

Thank you! I'm guessing that's one of your pics and taken late 70's? I've found quite a few pics of 060 taken around 1983/4 and in all she had the warning flashes by the cab doors:


Photo copyright: Andrew Goodson (Flickr) taken 1984

Even on this pic there are differences in the loco finish though. I think I shall be taking your advice and weathering on top of the finish I have and leave it at that

Cheers
Lee

 

[Brian Daniels]

Yes I took it on 27/09/80, I have a couple of pics of it but in 79 and 80 when it was still a bit shiny. Are you going to paint the spot where the worksplate was? Forgot to say earlier I take it the roof fan recess will be rail grey.

 

[Healey Mills]

Yes I took it on 27/09/80, I have a couple of pics of it but in 79 and 80 when it was still a bit shiny.

Oooo I wasn't too far out!

Are you going to paint the spot where the worksplate was?

I have been looking at that today and wondering how best to do it..... I've come to the conclusion I shall find out the dims of a worksplate, scale for it and then cut a small hole in a piece of masking tape..... apply rust accordingly

Forgot to say earlier I take it the roof fan recess will be rail grey.

I'm not sure how noticeable the Rail Grey might be once weathered (060 seemed to have a huge oil leak emanating from the scavenge fan) but I think I shall give that a go. Thanks for your input and help Brian.

Cheers
Lee

 

[Healey Mills]

The list of jobs are slowly dwindling on 40060 but one I've been waiting to do for a while is get the cabs finished off. I managed to get the consoles into the loco today with their decals and a little bit of muck to give it that lived in look

Not the best pic I'm afraid but I used a PVA type glue which takes a while to set so I left the loco on it's roof:



I've also had a think about perhaps using the JLTRT scavenge fan and associated grill. I've etch primed these I am going to have a look once painted to see what I think....

In between jobs on 060 I have managed to get the headcodes sorted a little on 40126:


(the left hand headcode box is not complete hence the rather gash/ judicious use of marker pen!)

Additionally there have been six coats of banger blue applied:



and as soon as the last coat was on I removed the masking tape:



I am going to have to give this loco a good few days now before I can do anything else to it just to make sure it dries. Then I can add the 'alternative' banger blue to the left hand side of number 2 end where the damage was. I will have to mask that off separately I think and make sure that the remainder of the loco is well covered to stop the over spray.

To make the 'alternative' banger blue I was thinking about adding a little black, but researching this topic it would seem that a richer colour would be obtained by adding the complimentary colour.... orange!!!! Does anyone have any experience of this to advise what the best option would be?

In the meantime... back to 40060 for some weathering....

Cheers
Lee

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thats a nice crisp line between the yellow and blue.....your'e getting good at this

 

[richard carr]

I'm not sure what colour you want for the alternative banger blue.

As you say mixing black will give you a darker colour, I'm not sure about orange as the complimentary colour, I would have thought a yellow would be better, but try them and see.

Personally I would just change the colour by painting on another colour such as white if you want a lighter blue, then remove this fairly quickly with a dry cotton wool bud, vitually all of it will come off but not completely and will leave that paler hue, you get a similar effect with black to darken it or you can use yellow or silver but whatever you put on never comes comletely off and changes the base colour. Try experimenting on a wagon painted blue first.

Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Not exactly a loco, but I used a wash of thinned white to lighten the yellow....

 

[Healey Mills]

I'm not sure what colour you want for the alternative banger blue.

As you say mixing black will give you a darker colour, I'm not sure about orange as the complimentary colour, I would have thought a yellow would be better, but try them and see.

Personally I would just change the colour by painting on another colour such as white if you want a lighter blue, then remove this fairly quickly with a dry cotton wool bud, vitually all of it will come off but not completely and will leave that paler hue, you get a similar effect with black to darken it or you can use yellow or silver but whatever you put on never comes comletely off and changes the base colour. Try experimenting on a wagon painted blue first.

Richard

Hi Richard,

Thanks for you input. I think you are right, I need to try different methods to get the correct finish. The banger blue I'm after is this:


Copyright: Chris Wright (Flickr) 1984

Cheers
Lee

 

[delticfan]

Brilliant work! You can almost smell the early 1980s

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Lee,
I expect I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but if you have sprayed wth celly, don't forget to use enamel for the 'wash' so the thinners don't damage the base colour.

 

[Healey Mills]

Lee,
I expect I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but if you have sprayed wth celly, don't forget to use enamel for the 'wash' so the thinners don't damage the base colour.

Hi Richard,

I always use Railmatch enamels now... well for the foreseeable future anyway.

I have decided I am going to give the loco a good few days before I attempt anything on it, besides which I want to get 40060 finished.

Cheers
Lee