7mm David Andrews Princess - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
I'll take that as a compliment.

Here's (one of) my finished models. I modified the resin firebox mouldings in the kits. They were quite badly shaped and in retrospect Rob's 3D prints are a much better solution. Printing was in it's early infancy then though and the products were very layery and would have required a lot of fettling.
 

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Compton castle

Western Thunderer
I'll take that as a compliment.

Here's (one of) my finished models. I modified the resin firebox mouldings in the kits. They were quite badly shaped and in retrospect Rob's 3D prints are a much better solution. Printing was in its early infancy then though and the products were very layery and would have required a lot of fettling.
Beautiful! I think this has shown that maybe it’s time for a new kit for this locomotive.
I know I want one
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
A major personal issue has kept me away from the bench for a few weeks apart from a few intermittent sessions. I will reveal the issue when I know if/how it's going to be resolved.

During those sessions I have managed to move the reversing support rod so that it now passes through the hole in the frames. Once I have finally set the ride height, I may need to make further adjustment.

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Nick Dunhill kindly supplied me with a few replacement parts at Barnsley show and I have managed to refit a slightly shorter combination lever.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Well I managed to get my head into gear and work out a way to get past my issue of not being able to retain the cylinders in the chassis without the body in place.

From a piece of 3mm diameter nickel rod I turned a short length down to 2.2mm and threaded it 8BA. I cut it off using a piercing saw then reversed it and face it off until I had just the merest hint of a head as the thread ends.

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I drilled a couple of holes in the top plate between the cylinders and tapped them 8ba there was already a slot in the frame spacer to accommodate one of the screws but I had to drill a corresponding hole to allow the second screw to pass through the spacer.

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There isn't a huge amount of screw thread in the holes so I soldered the screws in to reinforce them.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
The day before leaving for Stafford I had a bit of a disaster with the motion on the Princess in so much as one of the combination lever's snapped off while it was running on the rolling road. Initially I thought that it was due to there not being enough material left after opening out the holes for the locating pins but once I got back from Stafford and was able to remove the top end (the simple task of unscrewing a couple of 14ba screws) I found that the rod had actually snapped part way down the fluted section. I think that I have just been unlucky in that it was over cooked etch wise and that there was very little material left. there is so little that I cannot get my camera to focus on it to show what I mean.

Thankfully I had a couple of spares courtesy of Nick Dunhill so I have prepped a replacement. Not taking any chances on this one I have soldered a small strip of 10thou (0.25mm) onto the back of the rod to add a little extra strength. This has been done in fits and starts because like many other Chris and I picked something up at Safford that has taken a bit of shaking off. We have started to feel better one day only to feel crap again the next. Fingers crossed it's behind us now.

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I just have to refit it to the loco now.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Well with a proper two forward one back amount of progress I think that I am now back to where I was pre Stafford.

When fitting the replacement combination lever I really struggled with the pieces of brass wire which I had previously cut and peined over to hold the various rods in place. After the 4th or 5th pinged off into space I got fed up and chucked up a length of 1.9mm nickel rod in the lathe and turned down some small pins. These combined with some etched washers that I found on a spare etch now retain the rods in place.

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It was just prior to refitting that I thought that I had best remove the other combination lever and beef it up as I didn't want lightening to strike in the same pace twice.

After soldering another strip of nickel to the back and filing to shape I happened to place the two combination levers together on the bench where I realised that the replacement was longer that the one that snapped. As luck would have it I was able to solder a small piece of scrap etch into the bottom end of the fluted section and then drill through to the correct length. The last job was to cut of the over long bit and file the round on the bottom.

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These are the four stages of the operation but the good news is that it's all now reassembled and I am subject to test running back to where I was and ready to fit the return cranks.
 
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