Monks Ferry: a layout for the Grandchildren.
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
Your rotary switch update has overshadowed your progress with the wire and solder. We’ll done Jon!
Following everything with interest.
John
Following everything with interest.
John
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, John, but it’s Simon I have to thank for that, otherwise I’d be fiddling with a series of DPDT switches with no guarantee of success, or forking out for some wonderful piece of technology which would put me back in the dog house with the domestic authorities………..
Your continued interest is deeply appreciated.
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
Just in case any member was wondering how the tiny platform I made was going to be arranged, I’ve taken a couple of shots of their ‘placement’ to hopefully give you an idea:
They will of course be bedecked with ladders (those I showed earlier courtesy of Wizard Models) and decorated with the same embossed card as the two larger platforms. The pin legs will also need cutting down to size.
And so, barring any other disasters, that’s it for the time being.
Hopefully I can return with a completed signal, mounted on a plinth and still in full working order.
I’ll try and video it this time.
Thanks for your interest.
jonte
They will of course be bedecked with ladders (those I showed earlier courtesy of Wizard Models) and decorated with the same embossed card as the two larger platforms. The pin legs will also need cutting down to size.
And so, barring any other disasters, that’s it for the time being.
Hopefully I can return with a completed signal, mounted on a plinth and still in full working order.
I’ll try and video it this time.
Thanks for your interest.
jonte
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
A signalling saga showing superlative skill.
Sorry, Jon, couldn't resist it.......
.
Roger
Sorry, Jon, couldn't resist it.......
.Roger
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jonte
Western Thunderer
With only a spare hour or so since my last, I’ve managed to drill the platforms to take the rails and add a spot of detail under the wooden walkway.
I’ve taken a couple of shots of what they might look like when fitted (loosely placed and still requiring cutting to length and true-ing up), which won’t be until painted.
From the following shot, it’s obvious that some additional support will be required upon which the platforms can rest. It should also help with arranging them for the path of the rods which will be cut shorter. I’m thinking of using some H columns which are in my parts box and which can be cut into the uprights. Something along those lines anyway:
Finally an aerial view:
But those additions (plus some L shaped column-ey stuff I’ve also got lying around to suggest brackets or whatever) will be postponed, as my next time at the bench will be spent wiring up the bulbs and cutting the wires to length. Then I will be in a better position to decide whether the wiring-run down the stanchions will need some additional support.
As I write, I await the arrival of the knobs I intend fitting to the rotary switches, but they won’t be needed until I come to build a plinth upon which to mount the gantry for testing.
jonte
I’ve taken a couple of shots of what they might look like when fitted (loosely placed and still requiring cutting to length and true-ing up), which won’t be until painted.
From the following shot, it’s obvious that some additional support will be required upon which the platforms can rest. It should also help with arranging them for the path of the rods which will be cut shorter. I’m thinking of using some H columns which are in my parts box and which can be cut into the uprights. Something along those lines anyway:
Finally an aerial view:
But those additions (plus some L shaped column-ey stuff I’ve also got lying around to suggest brackets or whatever) will be postponed, as my next time at the bench will be spent wiring up the bulbs and cutting the wires to length. Then I will be in a better position to decide whether the wiring-run down the stanchions will need some additional support.
As I write, I await the arrival of the knobs I intend fitting to the rotary switches, but they won’t be needed until I come to build a plinth upon which to mount the gantry for testing.
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Yet another quick post……..
As photos never lie, I feel they are great aid to any assembly and never more so than here.
Despite my best intentions to make this assembly also a ‘disassembly’ for reasons already disclosed, those ‘hanging’ platforms at an irregular angle will never lie easy with me, never mind the model. They’re simply not ‘heavy’ enough to sit perpendicularly to the gantry (no lead left either), so there was only one thing for it: make ‘em permanent. In fact, the only reason I made them removable was the thought of the railings getting in the way of lamp removal, but on further examination this shouldn’t prove the hurdle I thought it would be as one side of the gantry has been made portable and there should still be enough leeway to make the job a tad easier.
So with regard to my earlier consideration of attaching a H column to support them, I carried on along these lines, but also stuck the platforms to them, such that they are no longer removable. A small price to pay for something that irked.
With reference to the H column, once I’d dug it out, I realised it was more G scale than humble four milli, and in an effort to attach something a little more fitting, I discovered some leftover I beam from a Dapol water tower kit. Unfortunately, it was just too distorted, so I swiftly binned that idea.
In the end, I opted for some plain styrene strip strong enough (but not too much) for the job, with some token decoration to the outside to (hopefully) help it blend a bit with the lattice style of the kit. Well, it was the best I could come up with as I needed to press on having left it for several days.
The platforms shored up on the bench while I stuck on the styrene strips:
Some lattice-esque supports being lumped together which hopefully mirror those of the kit:
…….then fitted:
Ah well, at least they’re a little easier on the eye (well, mine anyway).
Now to the task I intended for today: wiring the LEDs.
Thanks for your interest and likes, chaps.
Best,
Jon
As photos never lie, I feel they are great aid to any assembly and never more so than here.
Despite my best intentions to make this assembly also a ‘disassembly’ for reasons already disclosed, those ‘hanging’ platforms at an irregular angle will never lie easy with me, never mind the model. They’re simply not ‘heavy’ enough to sit perpendicularly to the gantry (no lead left either), so there was only one thing for it: make ‘em permanent. In fact, the only reason I made them removable was the thought of the railings getting in the way of lamp removal, but on further examination this shouldn’t prove the hurdle I thought it would be as one side of the gantry has been made portable and there should still be enough leeway to make the job a tad easier.
So with regard to my earlier consideration of attaching a H column to support them, I carried on along these lines, but also stuck the platforms to them, such that they are no longer removable. A small price to pay for something that irked.
With reference to the H column, once I’d dug it out, I realised it was more G scale than humble four milli, and in an effort to attach something a little more fitting, I discovered some leftover I beam from a Dapol water tower kit. Unfortunately, it was just too distorted, so I swiftly binned that idea.
In the end, I opted for some plain styrene strip strong enough (but not too much) for the job, with some token decoration to the outside to (hopefully) help it blend a bit with the lattice style of the kit. Well, it was the best I could come up with as I needed to press on having left it for several days.
The platforms shored up on the bench while I stuck on the styrene strips:
Some lattice-esque supports being lumped together which hopefully mirror those of the kit:
…….then fitted:
Ah well, at least they’re a little easier on the eye (well, mine anyway).
Now to the task I intended for today: wiring the LEDs.
Thanks for your interest and likes, chaps.
Best,
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
Wasn’t sure about the ‘hanging in the air’ look of the new supports, so after managing to wriggle out of a minor obligation, I decided on a (very) quick fix: namely using the unused support bracket that came with the kit to fashion a couple of sets of supports from offcuts of plasticard:
They should look okay with a coat of paint.
Just need at some stage to fill in the holes in the bases of the platforms now that the brass rods are redundant.
So now at last I’m in a position to address those LEDs (and the knobs for the rotary switches arrived in the afternoon post).
jonte
They should look okay with a coat of paint.
Just need at some stage to fill in the holes in the bases of the platforms now that the brass rods are redundant.
So now at last I’m in a position to address those LEDs (and the knobs for the rotary switches arrived in the afternoon post).
jonte
Trials and tribulations.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Another interim post just to continue my ‘warts ‘n’ all approach’ to this project.
I’ve begun wiring up the LEDs which will be a task in itself as each has to be tailored to its position in a lamp; this to ensure that feed wires don’t sag beneath the gantry and become exposed, the reason I increased the depth of the gantry crossmembers in the first place.
The process is extended time-wise by having to test each individual assembly twice: once when the wires are attached by soldering to a resistor, then removing the resistor to allow heat shrinks to be threaded onto each wire before adjustments are made, then reattaching the resistor and testing again to make sure all is still in working order.
Despite using the thinnest wire I could find (USB wire purchased for the task) it’s still a struggle to navigate them along a comparatively narrow corridor as this, as they’re stiffer than you would think when contorted as necessary. It also puts a strain on the bulbs in their holes, twisting them from their original positions and thus exposing the wires, which can then become visible through the gantry. In order to combat this, I’ve ordered some black-tac which can also be used to hold the pre-shaped wires to the crossmembers of the gantry.
To this end, I’m also going to retain the end pair of brass rods originally intended to enable the platforms to detach. These will help keep the wires horizontal and form a fulcrum for the wires to wind around as they descend along the stanchions. As it’s like threading a needle, their ability to slide in and out greatly assists with the task. Probably the only point working in my favour thus far……….
And talking of the gods conspiring…… when I came to remove the removable gantry section, only one end came away when I removed the brass ‘pins’ holding it in place. Bearing in mind I’d opted for superglue for the additional crossmember supports, my blood ran cold. Fiddling with a blade quickly followed by the blade of a screwdriver, it quickly became apparent that it was that particular end of the gantry which was stuck fast, or at least the lower third. Working with increasing force, I eventually managed to prise it apart using a large disposable stance bladed knife. Somehow, styrene glue had flowed into the lower joint fixing it fast and I reckon I was lucky to get it apart without inflicting further damage.
A quick clean up with fine files and wet and dry paper returned everything to normal.
The only good point was that it tested the robustness of the build, my scratch built additions proving their worth.
Finally, I returned the hand rails of the upper gantry to the jig for re-soldering as that bulbous joint on one of the legs was annoying me, to say nothing of the half hooped guard that had bent out of true when adding the offending leg. I should have extended the joint with the main rail further along. Perhaps it would have been easier to fabricate another, but there simply wasn’t enough brass rod left over to make a new one.
The realigned rail can be seen atop the gantry in this (still just placed for the photo) shot:
Hopefully I can return to the model tomorrow (Sunday) and complete the Led soldering job.
Thanks for reading.
jonte
I’ve begun wiring up the LEDs which will be a task in itself as each has to be tailored to its position in a lamp; this to ensure that feed wires don’t sag beneath the gantry and become exposed, the reason I increased the depth of the gantry crossmembers in the first place.
The process is extended time-wise by having to test each individual assembly twice: once when the wires are attached by soldering to a resistor, then removing the resistor to allow heat shrinks to be threaded onto each wire before adjustments are made, then reattaching the resistor and testing again to make sure all is still in working order.
Despite using the thinnest wire I could find (USB wire purchased for the task) it’s still a struggle to navigate them along a comparatively narrow corridor as this, as they’re stiffer than you would think when contorted as necessary. It also puts a strain on the bulbs in their holes, twisting them from their original positions and thus exposing the wires, which can then become visible through the gantry. In order to combat this, I’ve ordered some black-tac which can also be used to hold the pre-shaped wires to the crossmembers of the gantry.
To this end, I’m also going to retain the end pair of brass rods originally intended to enable the platforms to detach. These will help keep the wires horizontal and form a fulcrum for the wires to wind around as they descend along the stanchions. As it’s like threading a needle, their ability to slide in and out greatly assists with the task. Probably the only point working in my favour thus far……….
And talking of the gods conspiring…… when I came to remove the removable gantry section, only one end came away when I removed the brass ‘pins’ holding it in place. Bearing in mind I’d opted for superglue for the additional crossmember supports, my blood ran cold. Fiddling with a blade quickly followed by the blade of a screwdriver, it quickly became apparent that it was that particular end of the gantry which was stuck fast, or at least the lower third. Working with increasing force, I eventually managed to prise it apart using a large disposable stance bladed knife. Somehow, styrene glue had flowed into the lower joint fixing it fast and I reckon I was lucky to get it apart without inflicting further damage.
A quick clean up with fine files and wet and dry paper returned everything to normal.
The only good point was that it tested the robustness of the build, my scratch built additions proving their worth.
Finally, I returned the hand rails of the upper gantry to the jig for re-soldering as that bulbous joint on one of the legs was annoying me, to say nothing of the half hooped guard that had bent out of true when adding the offending leg. I should have extended the joint with the main rail further along. Perhaps it would have been easier to fabricate another, but there simply wasn’t enough brass rod left over to make a new one.
The realigned rail can be seen atop the gantry in this (still just placed for the photo) shot:
Hopefully I can return to the model tomorrow (Sunday) and complete the Led soldering job.
Thanks for reading.
jonte
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
Phew Jon, I’m not sure I would have had your patience in working through all of these vicissitudes. Looking good though!
Nigel
Nigel
jonte
Western Thunderer
Kind of you to say so, Nigel.
However in terms of patience, it remains a close run thing……..
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
I’ve managed to wire ten leds thus far, and with another nine or so to go, I had to alleviate the boredom somehow so resorted to making this: a test bed for the gantry signals:
Cobbled from scraps of ply and a handful of screws, all it needs is a bank of choc-bloc connectors either side of the gantry and in between the holes that render it it’s lunar appearance (they’re large to accommodate the sheer number of wires involved) to complete (I’ve just realised I’ve forgotten to drill the holes for the 12V supply).
Oh, and of course, the switches in the panels at either end (more soldering).
As I’m out of connectors, when I’ve a free moment I’ll pop along to the retail park and pick some up.
In the meantime, think I’ll slap a coat of paint on the wooden surface just to give me a little more time out before heading back to soldering up the rest of those LEDs……..
jonte
Cobbled from scraps of ply and a handful of screws, all it needs is a bank of choc-bloc connectors either side of the gantry and in between the holes that render it it’s lunar appearance (they’re large to accommodate the sheer number of wires involved) to complete (I’ve just realised I’ve forgotten to drill the holes for the 12V supply).
Oh, and of course, the switches in the panels at either end (more soldering).
As I’m out of connectors, when I’ve a free moment I’ll pop along to the retail park and pick some up.
In the meantime, think I’ll slap a coat of paint on the wooden surface just to give me a little more time out before heading back to soldering up the rest of those LEDs……..
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Shortly after my last post, I gave the board a coat of paint, and in between duties today, I wafted on a couple of coats of primer to the model:
Incidentally, I couldn’t believe how much the cost of primer has increased since my last purchase at Halfords.
Somebody somewhere’s having a giraffe………
jonte
Incidentally, I couldn’t believe how much the cost of primer has increased since my last purchase at Halfords.
Somebody somewhere’s having a giraffe………
jonte
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
I'd stay well clear of Halfords primer. New supplier, new formulation. From my own experience it doesn't stick anywhere near as well to plastic (masking tape or rubbing removes it).
Whole thread here: https://westernthunder.co.uk/threads/priming-plastic-models-for-painting.14187/page-2#post-337968
Alternatives available that are better and cheaper.
Whole thread here: https://westernthunder.co.uk/threads/priming-plastic-models-for-painting.14187/page-2#post-337968
Alternatives available that are better and cheaper.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Absolutely.
Widnes models is now my local model shop which caters equally well for the military modeller, and whilst browsing once I was amazed to see the variety of substances like primers that are available, available in those plastic capped vessels that many acrylic paints come in these days. Although they can be painted on, most need to be airbrush applied, and as mentioned earlier, I’m cutting corners here as my heart’s not really in this aspect of the build, and going the extra mile with airbrushes for instance will have to wait.Good ol’ brushes for now.
In the interests of lethargy and quickness, this will be a one colour subject which I’ll explain in a later post, but the airbrush will appear at some stage although briefly.
As for handling, I’ve always been a believer in a ‘plan of attack’ to reduce handling of models which has been an issue in the hobby since time immemorial. This reduces handling to a minimum. My attaching of additional bases as seen above helps in this respect. The same is also valid for masking. Incidentally, a tape designed specifically for modelling is a must and in the interests of tacsisity (a made up word in the style of Countdown), I can recommend none better than Tamiya, available in different thicknesses.
Thanks, and hope some of this helps.
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
A good friend remarked that not only have I fallen down a rabbit hole with this signal business, but the warren itself.
I’d go further: over the Event Horizon and into the black hole……….
But at least I’m beginning to enjoy the experience, and for the pain there’s gain, in as much as building the next one will only be extended by the amount of time it takes glue, primer and paint to dry. I even know how much to remove from the stem of the next knob! And the experience has confirmed what I already knew: junior hacksaws are cr*p, and it seems a bit extreme to take a large hack saw to such a small item, but at least it does the job.
Anyway, whilst very much at an embryonic stage, wiring has commenced and the newly fitted knob provides a smooth operation of movement from one click to the next:
The cluster of wires below will be tidied and cut to size whilst the test leds will be slung, having done their job.
The gantry top has received a base coat of paint but will be primed again along with the wires when fitted so that they too will be painted to blend better if seen through the lattice work and descending into the baseboard.
If anything, I could have done with the plinth/baseboard being a little bigger but all the other scrap pieces would have required me digging out the ‘horses’ to cut them…….and it was raining.
Now I need to get this back outside before the boss returns……I’d have taken the shot outside but my workshop is a tip at present, as it seems every tool is out butneeded. At least I know where everything is…..and to hand.
jonte
I’d go further: over the Event Horizon and into the black hole……….
But at least I’m beginning to enjoy the experience, and for the pain there’s gain, in as much as building the next one will only be extended by the amount of time it takes glue, primer and paint to dry. I even know how much to remove from the stem of the next knob! And the experience has confirmed what I already knew: junior hacksaws are cr*p, and it seems a bit extreme to take a large hack saw to such a small item, but at least it does the job.
Anyway, whilst very much at an embryonic stage, wiring has commenced and the newly fitted knob provides a smooth operation of movement from one click to the next:
The cluster of wires below will be tidied and cut to size whilst the test leds will be slung, having done their job.
The gantry top has received a base coat of paint but will be primed again along with the wires when fitted so that they too will be painted to blend better if seen through the lattice work and descending into the baseboard.
If anything, I could have done with the plinth/baseboard being a little bigger but all the other scrap pieces would have required me digging out the ‘horses’ to cut them…….and it was raining.
Now I need to get this back outside before the boss returns……I’d have taken the shot outside but my workshop is a tip at present, as it seems every tool is out butneeded. At least I know where everything is…..and to hand.
jonte
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
The beauty of being in the warren is that there is always light at the end of more than one tunnel............! Pleased to see faster progress is the order of the day - mass production even, dare one say ? Well done,mate.
Roger
Well done,mate.Roger
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