Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees. *slaps forehead*
I think, once this build is more or less complete, I shall have to set to and learn about the lathe that's lurking in our shed workshop.
On Heather's Workbench - Premier Line Backwaters
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees. *slaps forehead*
I think, once this build is more or less complete, I shall have to set to and learn about the lathe that's lurking in our shed workshop.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
There are times when I sit at the workbench and wonder why the hell I agreed to take on this project. Before we get into the whys and wherefores of woe, let's look at a mild success.
The driving trailers, like their passenger brake contemporaries, had a step fitted below the access to the guard's or luggage compartment. Sometimes, there was a step all the way along the vehicle, or at least steps along the length. In the case of the M56, there should be steps on the bogie under the driving cab end.
The wooden step is fitted with natty angled brackets to kick it away from the axlebox. I dived into the copious scrap etch box and retrieved a couple of JLTRT Mk1 etched steps left over from previous builds. A bit of 0.9mm brass wire and some soldering later, the bogie has steps. Time for the paint shop, at last.
Thoughts turned to the body shell again. I need to arrange for the roof to be fitted, and this has to be done before much work is done on the interior. The kit comes with a planed wooden roof of something like the correct profile for the cove roof shape of these vehicles.
To support the roof, this etched ladder affair is supposed to be soldered into the top of the body. As well as supporting the roof, it also provides structural rigidity to the body. Obviously, fitting it now would make fitting interior detail a right pain in the backside. I spent a while, fettling the etch to make it a nice snug fit, and considered fitting scrap etch brackets for it to sit on later. I also considered cutting the thing up, and fitting a large chunk where the luggage compartment is, with smaller braces across strategic partitions in the passenger end.
Essentially, that's what I've done. Using the ladder etch to get the width, I again raided the JLTRT scrap etch box to make three braces as above. This will allow me to fit interior detail without too much fiddle-faddle.
So, how do things look with the nice wooden roof in place?
Well, I didn't expect it to be perfect, but this leaves a hell of a lot to be desired. The roof, it seems, is about a millimetre shy of the bodyside width.
Even allowing for a layer of thick cartridge paper, referred to in the instructions, this will be a bit narrow. And how do I go about making the overhang each end of the coach? And where are the templates or drawings showing me where the rainstrips run, and spacing for the ventilators?
The Brasso, incidentally, is not there for drinking - yet.
You can just make out the bodyside proud of the roof lip.
There seems there may well be a bit fettling required to get a decent fit - assuming the wood hasn't warped, which I think the trailer coach roof has.
It is at this stage I began to wonder whether anyone had ever completed one of these coach kits before. Has anyone seen a completed Chowbent coach kit in the wild?
All the faffing about with the bracing involved me knocking other details off through handling damage. Things are getting to a stage where I have to repair the works before I try and fit anything else. Thankfully, I haven't had recourse to flight testing the whole model yet, just the odd tool.
Anyway, leaving aside for now there is another of these beggars lurking in a box on the bench, I really want to get to a point where some paint can be applied - even primer would be enough right now. While I try and figure out how to fit the roof properly, I shall return to the interior detailing. I've got some new cartridges for the colour laser printer, so I think some solvent abuse, some thick paper and some nice sharp blades will keep me occupied for a bit.
The driving trailers, like their passenger brake contemporaries, had a step fitted below the access to the guard's or luggage compartment. Sometimes, there was a step all the way along the vehicle, or at least steps along the length. In the case of the M56, there should be steps on the bogie under the driving cab end.
The wooden step is fitted with natty angled brackets to kick it away from the axlebox. I dived into the copious scrap etch box and retrieved a couple of JLTRT Mk1 etched steps left over from previous builds. A bit of 0.9mm brass wire and some soldering later, the bogie has steps. Time for the paint shop, at last.
Thoughts turned to the body shell again. I need to arrange for the roof to be fitted, and this has to be done before much work is done on the interior. The kit comes with a planed wooden roof of something like the correct profile for the cove roof shape of these vehicles.
To support the roof, this etched ladder affair is supposed to be soldered into the top of the body. As well as supporting the roof, it also provides structural rigidity to the body. Obviously, fitting it now would make fitting interior detail a right pain in the backside. I spent a while, fettling the etch to make it a nice snug fit, and considered fitting scrap etch brackets for it to sit on later. I also considered cutting the thing up, and fitting a large chunk where the luggage compartment is, with smaller braces across strategic partitions in the passenger end.
Essentially, that's what I've done. Using the ladder etch to get the width, I again raided the JLTRT scrap etch box to make three braces as above. This will allow me to fit interior detail without too much fiddle-faddle.
So, how do things look with the nice wooden roof in place?
Well, I didn't expect it to be perfect, but this leaves a hell of a lot to be desired. The roof, it seems, is about a millimetre shy of the bodyside width.
Even allowing for a layer of thick cartridge paper, referred to in the instructions, this will be a bit narrow. And how do I go about making the overhang each end of the coach? And where are the templates or drawings showing me where the rainstrips run, and spacing for the ventilators?The Brasso, incidentally, is not there for drinking - yet.
You can just make out the bodyside proud of the roof lip.
There seems there may well be a bit fettling required to get a decent fit - assuming the wood hasn't warped, which I think the trailer coach roof has.
It is at this stage I began to wonder whether anyone had ever completed one of these coach kits before. Has anyone seen a completed Chowbent coach kit in the wild?
All the faffing about with the bracing involved me knocking other details off through handling damage. Things are getting to a stage where I have to repair the works before I try and fit anything else. Thankfully, I haven't had recourse to flight testing the whole model yet, just the odd tool.
Anyway, leaving aside for now there is another of these beggars lurking in a box on the bench, I really want to get to a point where some paint can be applied - even primer would be enough right now. While I try and figure out how to fit the roof properly, I shall return to the interior detailing. I've got some new cartridges for the colour laser printer, so I think some solvent abuse, some thick paper and some nice sharp blades will keep me occupied for a bit.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Heather,
One way of extending the roof would be to stick plasticard of apropriate thickness across the ends with epoxy, shape to the profile and the joint will be hidden when covered with the cartridge paper.
Coach roofs ( or is it rooves
) do seem to be a problem for some coach kit manufactures. The coach kits I used for the emu set I built a couple of years back had plastic vac formed items that were completely useless, banana's, I made them from mdf using a foreplane and a profile cut from plastic as a guide these were sealed with varnish and coated with white primer, worked a treat.
Could be a market there for 3D printing me thinks.
ATB, Col.
One way of extending the roof would be to stick plasticard of apropriate thickness across the ends with epoxy, shape to the profile and the joint will be hidden when covered with the cartridge paper.
Coach roofs ( or is it rooves
) do seem to be a problem for some coach kit manufactures. The coach kits I used for the emu set I built a couple of years back had plastic vac formed items that were completely useless, banana's, I made them from mdf using a foreplane and a profile cut from plastic as a guide these were sealed with varnish and coated with white primer, worked a treat.Could be a market there for 3D printing me thinks.
ATB, Col.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Thanks for those ideas, chaps.
Tony, there are already aluminium extrusions with these kits. I think Best Beloved bought them from Sidelines when he realised the wooden ones might not be up to the task. I looked at the option yesterday, but the profile doesn't quite match the coach ends, and either the cantrail on the coach or the extruded gutter on the ally would have to be removed. Too much butchery required, sadly.
Col, the roof moulding is the right length (I know, because I measured and cut it to fit) , just not quite the right width. I could graft on some styrene strip to widen things a gnat's. I'll ponder that.
Dave, that's certainly an idea. Don't think I've got styrene sheet large enough at the moment, though.
Anyway, today I am going out to enjoy the late summer sunshine. Our local branch of Cats Protection is having an open day, and we like to give them our support when we can.
Tony, there are already aluminium extrusions with these kits. I think Best Beloved bought them from Sidelines when he realised the wooden ones might not be up to the task. I looked at the option yesterday, but the profile doesn't quite match the coach ends, and either the cantrail on the coach or the extruded gutter on the ally would have to be removed. Too much butchery required, sadly.
Col, the roof moulding is the right length (I know, because I measured and cut it to fit
) , just not quite the right width. I could graft on some styrene strip to widen things a gnat's. I'll ponder that.Dave, that's certainly an idea. Don't think I've got styrene sheet large enough at the moment, though.
Anyway, today I am going out to enjoy the late summer sunshine. Our local branch of Cats Protection is having an open day, and we like to give them our support when we can.
Les Golledge
Active Member
Hi Heather,
Could you cut the wood roof down it's centre line and then glue in Plastikard to bring the roof to the correct width. The centre joint should preserve the side profile of the roof.
Best wishes,
Les.
Could you cut the wood roof down it's centre line and then glue in Plastikard to bring the roof to the correct width. The centre joint should preserve the side profile of the roof.
Best wishes,
Les.
Thanks for those ideas, chaps.
Tony, there are already aluminium extrusions with these kits. I think Best Beloved bought them from Sidelines when he realised the wooden ones might not be up to the task. I looked at the option yesterday, but the profile doesn't quite match the coach ends, and either the cantrail on the coach or the extruded gutter on the ally would have to be removed. Too much butchery required, sadly.
Col, the roof moulding is the right length (I know, because I measured and cut it to fit
Dave, that's certainly an idea. Don't think I've got styrene sheet large enough at the moment, though.
Anyway, today I am going out to enjoy the late summer sunshine. Our local branch of Cats Protection is having an open day, and we like to give them our support when we can.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Les, that was a very good suggestion. I gave it a lot of thought. I was still giving things a lot of thought, when I realised it might be an idea to break out the trailer coach and get it to more or less the same level of work as the driving trailer. My thinking was the brainbox would worry away at the roof conundrum while I busied myself elsewhere, and out would pop a solution.
Actually, what happened was a friend came round for a cuppa, and made some very sensible suggestions.
What I've ended up doing is reverting to the etched ladder. They are, after all, designed for the job so they're the right width, fit the length of the coach bodies, stiffen them, and keep them parallel.
Initially, the idea was to tack it in place, either with glue or solder. The roof moulding would then be a good fit, the coach sides would be parallel, and then I could fix the ladder to the roof, remove both and fit the interiors. A good plan, although I felt the issue of painting the bodywork could make it a little messy.
I carried on cleaning up the trailer coach body, resetting door ventilators and so on - incidentally, what kind of sadist creates a coach livery that lines out door ventilator hoods? The castings have to be dead centre in the panel, otherwise they'll stick out like sore thumbs!
Eventually, the brainbox had worked out that it would be possible to construct the interiors with the ladder in place. The compartment dividers will be styrene sheet, glued to the styrene floor, supported by wooden seats and their respective printed overlays. I think it can be done through the gaps in the ladder, and a bit from below as necessary.
Anyway, both bodies now have the ladders in place, though you'll note I've chopped the driving trailer one back at the cab end. The reason is I shall be building the cab from styrene, and want to be able to get into the space more easily.
With the wooden roofs on, you can just see the top edge of the bodyside, which will represent the gutters. Once the roofs have been given a layer of paper, and had rainstrips and ventilators fitted, this will look a lot better.
So, the moral here is don't always try and be clever.
Actually, what happened was a friend came round for a cuppa, and made some very sensible suggestions.
What I've ended up doing is reverting to the etched ladder. They are, after all, designed for the job so they're the right width, fit the length of the coach bodies, stiffen them, and keep them parallel.
Initially, the idea was to tack it in place, either with glue or solder. The roof moulding would then be a good fit, the coach sides would be parallel, and then I could fix the ladder to the roof, remove both and fit the interiors. A good plan, although I felt the issue of painting the bodywork could make it a little messy.
I carried on cleaning up the trailer coach body, resetting door ventilators and so on - incidentally, what kind of sadist creates a coach livery that lines out door ventilator hoods? The castings have to be dead centre in the panel, otherwise they'll stick out like sore thumbs!
Eventually, the brainbox had worked out that it would be possible to construct the interiors with the ladder in place. The compartment dividers will be styrene sheet, glued to the styrene floor, supported by wooden seats and their respective printed overlays. I think it can be done through the gaps in the ladder, and a bit from below as necessary.
Anyway, both bodies now have the ladders in place, though you'll note I've chopped the driving trailer one back at the cab end. The reason is I shall be building the cab from styrene, and want to be able to get into the space more easily.
With the wooden roofs on, you can just see the top edge of the bodyside, which will represent the gutters. Once the roofs have been given a layer of paper, and had rainstrips and ventilators fitted, this will look a lot better.
So, the moral here is don't always try and be clever.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
No piccies today. I make no apologies, since I've been essentially repeating what I did on the driving trailer all over again. 
Anyway, the trailer coach body is now cleaned, fettled, had the handrails and brake telltale fitted, and is about as ready for the paint shop as the other body. Attention turned to repairing the bogies, which have subtly different castings to the previous coach from the same stable. Odd. Anyway, I need to reinforce the splashers, fix the end beams in place, add the brake gear and then - huzzah! - all four bogies can actually be painted!
I need to shift the dynamo to the right place, fill the backs of the battery boxes, add cosmetic pull rods and drill out the bogie pivot holes in the floor. Then I'll attack the bufferbeams to fit the brass buffer housings and heads, the new couplings, and the various pipes and stuff.
For a bit of light relief, I may either set about covering the roofs, or I may begin stripping down the next build on my list. I have a pair of part-started (I sense a theme developing) JLTRT Mk1s that need to be prepped for a build soon. By prepped, I mean stripping back dodgy paint and reconstructing the interiors, but that's a whole other thread.
Anyway, the trailer coach body is now cleaned, fettled, had the handrails and brake telltale fitted, and is about as ready for the paint shop as the other body. Attention turned to repairing the bogies, which have subtly different castings to the previous coach from the same stable. Odd. Anyway, I need to reinforce the splashers, fix the end beams in place, add the brake gear and then - huzzah! - all four bogies can actually be painted!
I need to shift the dynamo to the right place, fill the backs of the battery boxes, add cosmetic pull rods and drill out the bogie pivot holes in the floor. Then I'll attack the bufferbeams to fit the brass buffer housings and heads, the new couplings, and the various pipes and stuff.
For a bit of light relief, I may either set about covering the roofs, or I may begin stripping down the next build on my list. I have a pair of part-started (I sense a theme developing) JLTRT Mk1s that need to be prepped for a build soon. By prepped, I mean stripping back dodgy paint and reconstructing the interiors, but that's a whole other thread.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A quick update. Things are progressing very slowly, which is beginning to frustrate me as another project needs to be started soon. I think there will be some overlap happening.
Anyway, the trailer coach now has buffers, and the lighting switch. Just got to put the grab handles on each corner for both coaches, and then - wait for it, wait for it! - I can begin to paint them!
Here's one end with the buffers. I'm pleased with how these turned out after butchering the cast beams.
Some raw materials for me to make the carriage lighting switch. Like most non-corridor stock with electric lighting, right up to BR days, there was a socking great switch box on one end of the vehicle to let the guard or a shunter turn the lights on or off. I have one not-terribly-clear view of a suitable LNWR coach showing the location of the gear. A quick squint through the references revealed not much else of use, so I did a bit of lateral thinking and decided the LMS gear may have been very similar - the "Wolverton System" was adopted as standard for the company's electrical gear, after all. Happily, the LMS references had some good clear views, although they are the opposite way round the LNWR ones.
Figuring that a suitably sized box, a pull rod and some kind of handle would be sufficient, I came up with the following.
Now on to those handles, and to investigate why this buffer beam is proud of the end of the body.
Anyway, the trailer coach now has buffers, and the lighting switch. Just got to put the grab handles on each corner for both coaches, and then - wait for it, wait for it! - I can begin to paint them!
Here's one end with the buffers. I'm pleased with how these turned out after butchering the cast beams.
Some raw materials for me to make the carriage lighting switch. Like most non-corridor stock with electric lighting, right up to BR days, there was a socking great switch box on one end of the vehicle to let the guard or a shunter turn the lights on or off. I have one not-terribly-clear view of a suitable LNWR coach showing the location of the gear. A quick squint through the references revealed not much else of use, so I did a bit of lateral thinking and decided the LMS gear may have been very similar - the "Wolverton System" was adopted as standard for the company's electrical gear, after all. Happily, the LMS references had some good clear views, although they are the opposite way round the LNWR ones.
Figuring that a suitably sized box, a pull rod and some kind of handle would be sufficient, I came up with the following.
Now on to those handles, and to investigate why this buffer beam is proud of the end of the body.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
There is primer on the coach bodies. I repeat, there is primer on the coach bodies.
Sadly, until I get some paint supplies in, that's as far as they get for now. I was going to order direct from Phoenix Precision, but when I got to the delivery cost bit I figured as I was attending Scaleforum in a couple of weeks and they'll be there, I'll buy the bits then.
I ought to be finishing the trailer coach underframe and bogies, but my heart's not in it today. It's those annoyingly fiddly things, the ones that require bits to be sliced, spliced and soldered to varying degrees that don't make me want to settle at the bench today.
I could begin work on the next build, I guess, or firm up the Wish List of tools and supplies. We'll see. Whatever happens, tomorrow will be spent dodging showers at Wisley Gardens, trying to complete this round of photos of the heathers collection.
Onwards and sideways.
Sadly, until I get some paint supplies in, that's as far as they get for now. I was going to order direct from Phoenix Precision, but when I got to the delivery cost bit I figured as I was attending Scaleforum in a couple of weeks and they'll be there, I'll buy the bits then.
I ought to be finishing the trailer coach underframe and bogies, but my heart's not in it today. It's those annoyingly fiddly things, the ones that require bits to be sliced, spliced and soldered to varying degrees that don't make me want to settle at the bench today.
I could begin work on the next build, I guess, or firm up the Wish List of tools and supplies. We'll see. Whatever happens, tomorrow will be spent dodging showers at Wisley Gardens, trying to complete this round of photos of the heathers collection.
Onwards and sideways.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
See? I told you there was primer on the coach bodies.
Just for a laugh, here is both coaches on their wheels, posed on a bit of FS flexitrack. (The coaches are S7, so it was a bit of fiddle, perching one side on the further rail!)
There's a bit of a ride height issue, which will need to be sorted out, as well as that somewhat wonky buffer stock on the left-hand coach.
Both coaches are currently back in their boxes. I've decided to leave things alone for a bit to refresh my palette on another build for a while.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
This build is always in the back of my mind, even though I'm working on something else right now. I've been thinking about painting.
The finish is intended to be LNWR livery, which means a lot of intricate panel work and tricksy lining. I've been pondering how to paint the bodies, when the upper panels are picked out in the "spilt milk" (or even "split milk", which is another alternative I've seen noted in my researches; when you split milk to make butter, the buttermilk portion does have a blueish tinge to it, apparently, but I digress…).
Thoughts currently are running along the lines of following what they did with the real thing in the Paint Shop at Wolverton Works. Once the body had been primed and filled, it was given an undercoat of black, then several top coats of the dark lake colour. I think I'll do the same. Knowing the translucence of the paint I'll be applying, hopefully the black will give it some depth.
The overall body will be painted in the darker colour. Once it's really dry, I shall take a quality brush and apply a matt white undercoat to the upper panels. This will hopefully take out some of the blueness of the paint I have, which will also be brush painted into the panels. It'll be a laborious job, but it'll look the business when it's done.
A couple of airbrushed coats of gloss should finish it up nicely, ready for lining (by hand!) and the lettering.
Now I'm getting all excited about painting the things, but I really must finish these Mk1s first.
The finish is intended to be LNWR livery, which means a lot of intricate panel work and tricksy lining. I've been pondering how to paint the bodies, when the upper panels are picked out in the "spilt milk" (or even "split milk", which is another alternative I've seen noted in my researches; when you split milk to make butter, the buttermilk portion does have a blueish tinge to it, apparently, but I digress…).
Thoughts currently are running along the lines of following what they did with the real thing in the Paint Shop at Wolverton Works. Once the body had been primed and filled, it was given an undercoat of black, then several top coats of the dark lake colour. I think I'll do the same. Knowing the translucence of the paint I'll be applying, hopefully the black will give it some depth.
The overall body will be painted in the darker colour. Once it's really dry, I shall take a quality brush and apply a matt white undercoat to the upper panels. This will hopefully take out some of the blueness of the paint I have, which will also be brush painted into the panels. It'll be a laborious job, but it'll look the business when it's done.
A couple of airbrushed coats of gloss should finish it up nicely, ready for lining (by hand!) and the lettering.
Now I'm getting all excited about painting the things, but I really must finish these Mk1s first.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I'm back at these coaches with a vengeance. The client called the other week, and asked in his ever-so-gentle way how things were progressing, which managed to push my guilt button.
I've spent a day or so refreshing my mind as to where things were. There are some fiddly bits still to do, but with a fair wind I may be able to complete the trailing coach underframe and bogies soon-ish. After a trip to the osteopath today for my regular treatment, I was advised not to spend too much time at the workbench to let things settle down. Not being allowed to sit hunched over the models, my thoughts turned to refining the interior artwork.
The idea, if you recall, was to create a suitable interior artwork, which could be stuck to the wooden seat moulding and the compartment partitions. A similar artwork was created to fit along the side interiors. To ensure the artwork would actually fit the moulding properly, I stuck some masking tape over the seat so I could mark off where the various dips and folds fell. I translated that to the artwork itself, to what you see above.
A simple trompe trompe l'œil was made to give some depth to the seat cushions, by means of a gradient fill. The floor is brown lino, and I've got some suitable period advertisements I can print onto thicker material to stick over the panels on the wall above the seat.
Here's the first stuck-down test. As you can see, the top of the seat needs extending a little, and the shadow effect could be a lot lighter, but otherwise I am very happy with this. A good coat of matt varnish will flatten down the unfortunate satin print from the colour laser, but it's a million miles better than just painting the seats and hoping.
I've spent a day or so refreshing my mind as to where things were. There are some fiddly bits still to do, but with a fair wind I may be able to complete the trailing coach underframe and bogies soon-ish. After a trip to the osteopath today for my regular treatment, I was advised not to spend too much time at the workbench to let things settle down. Not being allowed to sit hunched over the models, my thoughts turned to refining the interior artwork.
The idea, if you recall, was to create a suitable interior artwork, which could be stuck to the wooden seat moulding and the compartment partitions. A similar artwork was created to fit along the side interiors. To ensure the artwork would actually fit the moulding properly, I stuck some masking tape over the seat so I could mark off where the various dips and folds fell. I translated that to the artwork itself, to what you see above.
A simple trompe trompe l'œil was made to give some depth to the seat cushions, by means of a gradient fill. The floor is brown lino, and I've got some suitable period advertisements I can print onto thicker material to stick over the panels on the wall above the seat.
Here's the first stuck-down test. As you can see, the top of the seat needs extending a little, and the shadow effect could be a lot lighter, but otherwise I am very happy with this. A good coat of matt varnish will flatten down the unfortunate satin print from the colour laser, but it's a million miles better than just painting the seats and hoping.
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
They look really nice Heather keep up the good work.
Len
Len
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Taking Heather's lead, I have been experimenting with DMU seating for my 121 and have come up with two possibilities
using Office Project and Design Gallery, printed onto Avery MP7160 self adhesive labels - you get 21 labels per sheet and one label does one double seat with enough to go under the fronts. I have not found out how to change colours on the examples in Design Gallery, but the blue version seems quite close to BR cloth design.
The photo image is about four times actual and obviously the end panels need to go on as does the 'neck roll' which is sadly lacking from the Tower Models seating.
cheers
Mike
using Office Project and Design Gallery, printed onto Avery MP7160 self adhesive labels - you get 21 labels per sheet and one label does one double seat with enough to go under the fronts. I have not found out how to change colours on the examples in Design Gallery, but the blue version seems quite close to BR cloth design.
The photo image is about four times actual and obviously the end panels need to go on as does the 'neck roll' which is sadly lacking from the Tower Models seating.
cheers
Mike
alcazar
Guest
I've just been looking again at this thread, from post number 42, and I have to say that I find it heartening to see that a professional model maker can also have problems, but also to see how, often with suggestions from others, they are overcome.
Now, if I can only find somewhere to continue my Metasmiths, 7mm Ransomes and Rapier 70 foot turntable kit, I'll be happy. I WAS building it under the living room window, but Mrs Alcazar put the six-foot Christmas tree there, and I'm banned from working elsewhere on the lounge floor. It's just too big to work on on my workbench in the loft........
Now, if I can only find somewhere to continue my Metasmiths, 7mm Ransomes and Rapier 70 foot turntable kit, I'll be happy. I WAS building it under the living room window, but Mrs Alcazar put the six-foot Christmas tree there, and I'm banned from working elsewhere on the lounge floor.
It's just too big to work on on my workbench in the loft........
40126
Western Thunderer
I've just been looking again at this thread, from post number 42, and I have to say that I find it heartening to see that a professional model maker can also have problems, but also to see how, often with suggestions from others, they are overcome.
Now, if I can only find somewhere to continue my Metasmiths, 7mm Ransomes and Rapier 70 foot turntable kit, I'll be happy. I WAS building it under the living room window, but Mrs Alcazar put the six-foot Christmas tree there, and I'm banned from working elsewhere on the lounge floor.
Call her bluff, mention using the kitchen !!!
Steve
