AJC
Western Thunderer
What @adrian said - there's a bit of background here: Agenoria Models - Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding (and in Chris's thread over there).
Adam
Last edited:
7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)
- Thread starter Pencarrow
- Start date
What @adrian said - there's a bit of background here: Agenoria Models - Kitbuilding & Scratchbuilding (and in Chris's thread over there).
Adam
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
You're not the first to say that. My own impression was that Mike traded on Pete's reputation but the the kit design and quality were not equal to the original kits. I think folk quickly caught on though...
adrian
Flying Squad
Allegedly! Supposedly! and dunno!
I'm a little hazy on the details as it was before I joined. I'm happy to be corrected if wrong but my understanding is that all things Western, GWR or diesel hydraulic etc. was the common interest for the original core of modellers that Cynric set up the forum with. Hence the original split of WR action and Area 51 was small offshoot, somewhere for Jordan to post various SOO related threads.
Anyway forums evolve and grow and the emphasis has always tried to be about making stuff rather than opening boxes so it attracted a wonderful variety of modelling. I wouldn't worry about where stuff gets posted - the forum size is comfortable enough to pick up everything via the new posts or recent posts pages.
At the end of the day I'm more than happy to abide by Cynric's view on posting.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the explanation Adrian, I suspected that it dated back to the early days of the forum. Good to know there's no hard and fast rule - not being certain where to post stuff has put me off starting new threads. To aid settling in newbies is it worth penning a few lines of guidance to reflect current thoughts?
Interesting that the Area 51 'other stuff' now has over twice the content of the WR Action!
Interesting that the Area 51 'other stuff' now has over twice the content of the WR Action!
Last edited:
New 1366 frames
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Lower spacer needs moving to here:
The gearbox does mean that I can't use the Finney7 method of compensating the rear two axles though. There's no route through for the bar. Can't rotate the gearbox and motor through 90deg either as the gearbox would end up in the cab and the motor stick outside the firebox.
Ideas welcome.
The gearbox does mean that I can't use the Finney7 method of compensating the rear two axles though. There's no route through for the bar. Can't rotate the gearbox and motor through 90deg either as the gearbox would end up in the cab and the motor stick outside the firebox.
Ideas welcome.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Nahh ya don't
Mount the motor this way.
Should just still fit inside the firebox, might poke into the cab a bit though.
Failing that and if you must have the motor that way up, take the middle spacer out, clamp the two frame sides together and drill new fixing holes where ever you want the spacer to be, suggest directly in front by about 15mm. You don't need to counter sink the outside of the holes, use the screws to hold it all together, even though the middle ones will be proud, solder on the inside of the frames with plenty of flux so it works around the spacer and thread, cut off proud head and file smooth. The two outer ones will form the strongest joints but the middle one soldered well will not give you any problems or come adrift.
Retain cut off counter sunk heads, stick them in the old holes and flood solder, then file and clean up to leave a smooth surface on the outside.
MD
Mount the motor this way.
Should just still fit inside the firebox, might poke into the cab a bit though.
Failing that and if you must have the motor that way up, take the middle spacer out, clamp the two frame sides together and drill new fixing holes where ever you want the spacer to be, suggest directly in front by about 15mm. You don't need to counter sink the outside of the holes, use the screws to hold it all together, even though the middle ones will be proud, solder on the inside of the frames with plenty of flux so it works around the spacer and thread, cut off proud head and file smooth. The two outer ones will form the strongest joints but the middle one soldered well will not give you any problems or come adrift.
Retain cut off counter sunk heads, stick them in the old holes and flood solder, then file and clean up to leave a smooth surface on the outside.
MD
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Mick not a problem moving the spacer. The photo below better shows why I think rotating the motor through 90deg won't work in this case.
I'd have to cut a big chunk out of the underside of the boiler and a lump out of the firebox. I also want to avoid having the gearbox in the cab.
I'd have to cut a big chunk out of the underside of the boiler and a lump out of the firebox. I also want to avoid having the gearbox in the cab.
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
As for compensation I would use side beams on centre and rear axles, and centrally rock the leading. I am with mickoo about the central spacer.
The stuff from premier look good. Do I spy brake hanger holes in the frames?
Overseer
Western Thunderer
The gearbox doesn't prevent installing twin beams to the centre and rear axle, the 'bar' doesn't need to be full width. Turn up or make a pair of studs to act as the bearing for the compensating beam and screw or solder one into each side frame.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Good point - the slots in the top of the horn blocks keep the beams in place.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Something I have spotted that concerns me slightly when comparing the new frames against the Iain Rice drawing is that the rear section seems to be too short:
The loco as built matches the drawing. So either the loco and drawing are too long or the new frames too short.
I think I'm jinxed with this loco!
The loco as built matches the drawing. So either the loco and drawing are too long or the new frames too short.
I think I'm jinxed with this loco!
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Yes you do Pete, hanger holes are present. The position of the front hanger holes is behind where the Agenoria cylinders currently are - another sign that they are too long!
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Having thought about it I like your idea about the screw heads as fillers. Cunning!
Edit: although I may not have to fill the old hole but enlarge it as there should be an oval hole in the frames about there showing some of the ashpan.
Last edited:
adrian
Flying Squad
It shouldn't be a problem at all - better this way than too long!! At least it should fit and it looks like the small gap will be hidden by the footplate valence. As long as the axle centres are the right distance apart and they are the correct distance from the top of the frame it'll be fine.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Those frames may well be the correct length and the other ones too long, that looks like a wooden buffer plank behind the steel overlay one, quite a common feature on older engines and especially shunting engines.
Or, simply add a filler strip on the inside to take up the gap, lap joints are stronger and easier to solder than butt joints and then add a strip the same thickness as the frames on top and file smooth, bish bosh gap gone.
MD
Or, simply add a filler strip on the inside to take up the gap, lap joints are stronger and easier to solder than butt joints and then add a strip the same thickness as the frames on top and file smooth, bish bosh gap gone.
MD
Last edited:
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Looking at side-on photos I think the Iain Rice drawing has the rear frame curves too far back. The rear guard irons at the base of the curve are forward of the rear of the steps not in line with the rear as on the Rice drawing. So the Premier Components frames have the curve correct.
Can't work out from photos why the frames are short though - no sign of a gap between the frames and rear buffer beam or thick timber....or is there?:
