TFW’s workshop

[Tim Watson]

I’ve been working on Valour’s cab over the last couple of days. The windows have etched frames to be fitted - quite fiddly in fact. The front spectacle frames were too fine for use (over-etched for the thickness) and so some strip was bent up and soldered in place. The cab roof has some long slots left proud by half etching in order to accommodate the up right of the characteristic T section external roof ribs. These etched ribs were thinned down with a file to fit the slot and then soldered in place using my trusty surgical clips to hold them in place.



It was easier to solder the back rib in place with it still attached to the etch.



The roof is very rigid with the extra ribs.



I couldn’t resist putting the splasher with integral nameplate in place. It may, in fact, be the next job.



Tim

 

[Grahame Hedges]

Need an 'impressed' and perhaps a swoon button.

 

[P A D]

Hi Tim,
Neat trick soldering the back rib in place while still on the fret. Simple but effective and filed away for future use. I've got a Gladiator D11 in the pipeline with a similar type of roof so I'm sure it will come into play.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[Tim Watson]

The splashers are now fitted and the cab footplate & inside splashers made. I have used a slab of brass to support the cab floor, putting weight where it’s needed. This will also be drilled and tapped to take a longer pivot screw for the tender.


The line drawn down the middle of the cab front corresponds with a line drawn down the underside of the cab roof, which helps to align the two (not my idea, but Graham Nicholas’ who wrote up the 4mm example instructions). The UJ cap will push forwards a little on final assembly and clear the back head which will be made as a brass lost-plastic casting and fixed to the removable footplate.




I’m not quite sure how to do the Belpaire firebox, as it is 45 years since I last made one. There are etchings included in the kit, which might wrap around a slightly reduced diameter boiler turning. There should be plenty of weight over the driving wheels, as the drive head sits nice and low between the splashers.

Tim

 

[Tim Watson]

Looks like the demise of Tinypic has wiped out most of my photos: very tedious.

Anyway, Valour now has a kettle, machined and filed out of a lump of brass. All up weight is a very chunky 75g for the engine alone.

Robinson fireboxes have some subtle curves.


Tim

 

[ChrisBr]

Tim,
With reference to "The UJ cap will push forwards a little on final assembly and clear the back head which will be made as a brass lost-plastic casting and fixed to the removable footplate" can you provide more details on how this will be made please?

I am assuming a 3d print using a suitable plastic, if so, which and who is doing the casting? I'm keen to use this process myself but am struggling to find a caster who will deal with resin wax and not try and treat it like wax.....
Chris

 

[Tim Watson]

The pattern for the back head, splashers, floor & seat will be made from styrene (probably next weekend when we are on holiday in Scotland, celebrating our 40th wedding anniversary). Styrene burns out easily at investment heating temperatures for dental casting and is sprued the same as for wax. It will be made from ‘students alloy’, a brass analogue for dental gold. It will be cast at my London Bridge workshop. I could get some pictures if you’re interested, Chris.

Tim

 

[P A D]

The pattern for the back head, splashers, floor & seat will be made from styrene (probably next weekend when we are on holiday in Scotland, celebrating our 40th wedding anniversary). Styrene burns out easily at investment heating temperatures for dental casting and is sprued the same as for wax. It will be made from ‘students alloy’, a brass analogue for dental gold. It will be cast at my London Bridge workshop. I could get some pictures if you’re interested, Chris.

Tim

Yes please Tim. It sounds very interesting. Make sure you put the right casting in the cab, as a toothy grin staring out of the cab just won't cut the mustard.

 

[P A D]

PS. Who would have thought that dentistry skills would be useful for scratch building model locomotives? You live and learn.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[Tim Watson]

It was scratch building skills that got me in to dentistry in the first place, Peter.

Tim

 

[simond]

Another vote for a casting tutorial!

Atb
Simon

 

[ChrisBr]

Thanks Tim, yes i would be very interested (as it seems would others).

Chris

 

[Tim Watson]

I have resumed work on Valour’s tender front. There are some pleasant little details around the front tool box. The top is still loose (hence the bad horizontal front joint), but it now has the motor cover in place. The engine will probably have a fairly empty tender, as it will be working on the up Sheffield Pullman, coming in to KX.


Tim

 

[Tim Watson]

The rear cylinder covers were originally made oversize lumps to allow filing into shape for the piston stuffing boxes, studs & nuts.

These have now been fettled into the correct lozenge shape.

Afraid I drew the line at wiring the nuts in position to lock them. Valve gear to follow. The piston is 0.5mm diameter.


Tim

 

[Grahame Hedges]

Peerless micro-engineering.

G

 

[Tim Watson]

I have continued filling in the valve gear and drain cocks / linkage and cylinder covers. Quite fiddly.





The nearside works plate will need a slight trim with a sharp chisel.

Tim

 

[simond]

“Quite fiddly”....

 

[P A D]

Hi Tim,
If the piston rod is 0.5mm OD, what gauge do you use for the valve rod? I take you will be adding the oil pots on the running plate, but will the pipework be a "detail too far" in 2mm scale?

It looks like a bigger version (well, a smaller bigger version) of the D11 with outside cylinders. Very handsome.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Tim Watson]

Piston rod is 33 SWG p/b wire (0.25 mm), so probably a bit undersized, Peter. I might beef up the drive rod to the valve with a bit of strip, although it really is virtually invisible.

The oil reservoirs will go on the running plate but oil pipes cannot be made to scale: if you can’t do it to scale or it makes complex painting / lining impossible I am very inclined to miss out bits.

Tim
PS valve rod link now improved by flattening with a pair of pliers.

 

[Tim Watson]

Trimming the wonky near side works plate with a TC dental chisel.

Tim