7mm The Colonel's Birmingham Bodges. EMU's & now Mk2 coaches.
- Thread starter iploffy
- Start date
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Latest update the roof is not fixed on at the moment and the brow needs finishing
looking at the actual shape of the top where the windows are I think that it needs to be thinned down a smidgen on the outer edges to get the taper to the roof, I might pencil in where the windows go tomorrow to see if I am going in the right direction.
Rather cruel enlargements, it looks rather nasty but the actual texture is much better than it looks
looking at the actual shape of the top where the windows are I think that it needs to be thinned down a smidgen on the outer edges to get the taper to the roof, I might pencil in where the windows go tomorrow to see if I am going in the right direction.
Rather cruel enlargements, it looks rather nasty but the actual texture is much better than it looks
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
A bit further with a witness coat
I can now see where I need to fill and smooth it off. the holes in the bottom will be filled plasticard to make recesses. I added the windows roughly to see where they would fit now I will cut them out, finish the profile then smooth the whole front off
I can now see where I need to fill and smooth it off. the holes in the bottom will be filled plasticard to make recesses. I added the windows roughly to see where they would fit now I will cut them out, finish the profile then smooth the whole front off
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
We now have Dr Beaching s solution to 'Electrified off peak services' where minimal occupancy is catered for
Seriously it is a test to check the hight of the roof when completed. I still have the quandary of how to cast the ends any ideas. The roof is separate and the chassis is separate, I intend to cast to the drivers door and then use etchings for the rest of the coach obviously using a cast resin end for the other gangway
Ian
Seriously it is a test to check the hight of the roof when completed. I still have the quandary of how to cast the ends any ideas. The roof is separate and the chassis is separate, I intend to cast to the drivers door and then use etchings for the rest of the coach obviously using a cast resin end for the other gangway
Ian
Neil
Western Thunderer
I'd take a look at Simon's 12? bubble car project for ideas about orientation for the outer part of the mould. As your master is hollow it should be fairly easy to sort the inner plug out. though it might seem a retrograde step I'd have a think about covering the rear of the windows with a thin blanking plate, giving a solid but thin window to be opened out in the final casting. If I can be cheeky and offer some constructive criticism; I'd work really hard to get a better surface finish on the end before taking a mould from it. The rubber takes into every crevice and imperfection and they will be accurately replicated in the finished casting. It's much easier to work on one master than a number of finished castings particularly as filler sticks better to plastic masters than resin castings. Finally my advice would be the same as Simon offered me, 'just get on with it'. There's no way of building up experience without getting sticky fingers.
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Thanks Neil, that was my thoughts as well it's got to be smoothed off but before I do that I have to make sure the sides are carbon copies of each other, as for blanking the windows what a good idea never thought of that, you would only have to open them out and add the window pane Nice one!!!!!!!!!!. it does pay to ask questions however Dumb
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Right this is the state of play the compound curves are very compoundery. the two holes have been drilled into the
head code box to give me a datum point for opening it up.
It still looks as rough as a bears A**s at the moment but I intent to do something about that once the roof line has been sorted out. With having to do witness coats all of the time the paint is building up on other places it won't take long to remove it but I think I am going to keep taking pictures as they show in a cruel way what needs to be done
head code box to give me a datum point for opening it up.
It still looks as rough as a bears A**s at the moment but I intent to do something about that once the roof line has been sorted out. With having to do witness coats all of the time the paint is building up on other places it won't take long to remove it but I think I am going to keep taking pictures as they show in a cruel way what needs to be done
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
By George I think I have cracked it at long last.
View attachment 19018
I honestly think I have cracked it, the final witness coat, does it look symmetrical to you.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Ian,
would it be possible to rest the cab on a tabletop (not the £1200 one) and take a 'head-on' shot as it's difficult to judge at present as it appears that the headcode box is slightly off centre in the pictures above.
cheers
Mike
