lancer1027
Western Thunderer
That is EXCELLENT 
Rob
Rob
Computer Aided Wagonry
- Thread starter Pugsley
- Start date
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Thanks everyone!
Here's a thousand words:
The spring and nut aren't shown, but the spring will be trapped between the end of the grey part and the red part. There's no prizes for guessing where the nut goes
The buffers will be made up from the 3 cast components as shown, but I'm not sure what they'll be cast in yet, although I'm beginning to think that lost wax brass is probably going to be the most suitable for them.
Thanks for the offer Tom, although I think you'll struggle to get anywhere near one of these, as AFAIK they're all in use. It would only be shots of the underneath I'd need, I've got external shots from Long Marston for everything else.
The buffers are designed to be self contained, and work in the same way as the prototype, with the head part sliding over the shank. The spring will be trapped between the head and the end of the shank, with the head being contained by screwing into a 10BA nut. The nut is retained in the housing, and doesn't project beyond it, so they are completely self contained.Thats coming on
Here's a thousand words:
The spring and nut aren't shown, but the spring will be trapped between the end of the grey part and the red part. There's no prizes for guessing where the nut goes
The buffers will be made up from the 3 cast components as shown, but I'm not sure what they'll be cast in yet, although I'm beginning to think that lost wax brass is probably going to be the most suitable for them.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
I think you are reading the diagram wrong. The red part is the buffer. The grey piece is the mounting and the brown bit fits to the buffer and slides over the grey mount.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Superglue? I think Martin has this exactly right, I think it will make it needlessly complicated to add a keyway.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
That's the plan - just a small dab to stop any unwanted movement, so the buffer can be disassembled if required.
The orange part fits on to the head - it's a separate part for casting purposes, which will be soldered on. Otherwise, the design is exactly as Phil described.
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Here's how things stand at the moment:
I've added more of the detail parts around the doors, and more of the actuating gear. I've also trimmed the roof back a bit, which has made a vast difference to the appearance. There' s not too much left to do know before I can focus on turning it into reality, although I'm sure I find more things to do every time I complete a part of it!
I've added more of the detail parts around the doors, and more of the actuating gear. I've also trimmed the roof back a bit, which has made a vast difference to the appearance. There' s not too much left to do know before I can focus on turning it into reality, although I'm sure I find more things to do every time I complete a part of it!
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
More progress:
Although things have slowed considerably, as I'm finding that bits I'm adding now are highlighting things that I've got wrong previously. A good example of this are the springs - with the correct curvature, the axlebox doesn't sit in the right place - they're a bit squashed at the moment - I need to get another millimetre in there somehow - mostly by shortening the suspension mounts.
Other than that, there's only a few more bits to do, mostly the handbrake wheels and associated hardware. I'm hoping to be at the artwork stage by the end of the week.
Although things have slowed considerably, as I'm finding that bits I'm adding now are highlighting things that I've got wrong previously. A good example of this are the springs - with the correct curvature, the axlebox doesn't sit in the right place - they're a bit squashed at the moment - I need to get another millimetre in there somehow - mostly by shortening the suspension mounts.
Other than that, there's only a few more bits to do, mostly the handbrake wheels and associated hardware. I'm hoping to be at the artwork stage by the end of the week.
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
You built that second one quicklyIm looking forward to seeing this move from concept to something tangible
You and me both! There's some very inspirational work going on here Pugs. I wish my 3D fumblings produced results as quickly as yours. Mind you, I do have at least half a dozen different projects on the go - I can't seem to discipline myself to get any one of them finished....!
Anyway, roll on the next installment...
Regards
Dan
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
And me makes three!
Thanks for the kind words chaps, I'm also looking forward to turning it into something tangible - this phase of the project seems to have been going on for an awfully long time.
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
I've just realised that I haven't updated this thread with pictures of the finished 3D model, so here it is:
Work continues apace (well, sort of) and I'm in the process of sprue-ing up all the parts ready for sending off. The first option will be the Shapeways FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail), which should have the resolution that I need, although there are higher quality options available for some of the smaller parts if it doesn't quite go according to plan. I'm hoping it does though, as those options are a lot more expensive!
The files should be sent off by the weekend, so I should get my goodies within the next two weeks! An update will appear once they arrive. The next job is to start on the etchings, but I think all I'm going to have by the end of September is a lot of parts - nearly a 1,000 of them, in fact!
Work continues apace (well, sort of) and I'm in the process of sprue-ing up all the parts ready for sending off. The first option will be the Shapeways FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail), which should have the resolution that I need, although there are higher quality options available for some of the smaller parts if it doesn't quite go according to plan. I'm hoping it does though, as those options are a lot more expensive!
The files should be sent off by the weekend, so I should get my goodies within the next two weeks! An update will appear once they arrive. The next job is to start on the etchings, but I think all I'm going to have by the end of September is a lot of parts - nearly a 1,000 of them, in fact!
Work continues apace (well, sort of) and I'm in the process of sprue-ing up all the parts ready for sending off. The first option will be the Shapeways FUD (Frosted Ultra Detail), which should have the resolution that I need, although there are higher quality options available for some of the smaller parts if it doesn't quite go according to plan. I'm hoping it does though, as those options are a lot more expensive!
The files should be sent off by the weekend, so I should get my goodies within the next two weeks! An update will appear once they arrive. The next job is to start on the etchings, but I think all I'm going to have by the end of September is a lot of parts - nearly a 1,000 of them, in fact!
Pugsley -
Very Nice Indeed.
If I can ask one question though [and its probably me not reading thoroughly enough!] - what parts will be etched and what parts will be cast [in whatever material]??? Are the roof, main body sides, solebars, ends & end frameworks to be etched?
Regards,
David Parkins
mickoo
Western Thunderer
As a proficient CAD modeller for over ten years, I have to say that is some seriously good accomplished work there, clean, neat and very well executed and I'm more than a tad jealous since I cannot settle on a prototype to attempt follow your example LOL.
I looked at the higher resolutions from shapeways, a 1:32 FUD TRAX cab was in the region of 160Euros, you have to seriously committed to a project to fork out that sort of cash for a cab, though for a TRAX I think I can get away with a plasticard build to make a master but for the Br110/140/150/151 cab then Shapeways is the only real way and that comes out at nearly 200Euros! I will be very interested to see how FUD works out for the larger scales, especially the layering that one can get occasionally.
Kindest
I looked at the higher resolutions from shapeways, a 1:32 FUD TRAX cab was in the region of 160Euros, you have to seriously committed to a project to fork out that sort of cash for a cab, though for a TRAX I think I can get away with a plasticard build to make a master but for the Br110/140/150/151 cab then Shapeways is the only real way and that comes out at nearly 200Euros! I will be very interested to see how FUD works out for the larger scales, especially the layering that one can get occasionally.
Kindest
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Mick,
To use this stuff as a master pattern for another production method (e.g. resin casting) it actually works out pretty affordable. Even taking the cost/hour to produce the CAD file I suspect it works out cheaper than could be done by traditional means. And I'd hope it's more accurate even if further finishing is required.
Less cost-effective for a one-off perhaps; even then I'm not sure...
Steph