7mm On Heather's workbench - a trio of JLTRT Mk2s

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
And here's an update with the preliminary results.

IMG_4987.jpg

IMG_4986.jpg

As you can see, there has been paint creep under the edge of the masking. I think it's fair to say the idea has merit, but needs more testing to get the technique down. I suspect more adhesive along the edges is required, to be honest. I have to say, the foil peels away nicely - without that gut-wrenching moment when you think a lump of paint is coming away with the masking tape because it's been on there too long! - and very little residue is apparent of the Spraymount at all.

I shall award myself 8 out of 10 for concept and effort, 6 out of 10 for execution.

Anyway, it's nothing that can't be fixed with a cotton bud soaked in thinners, a gentle scrape with a sharp blade, and some retouching with a brush. I pretty much expected some cleaning up would be required. Cleaning up the enamel over spray from those coaches that managed to get good cellulose grey on them is easier. The BSO has enamel grey, so I shall be a little more careful.

The white demarcation line will also hide a multitude of sins, as it will inevitably be slightly over scale (I use a Bob Moore Lining Pen, which produces a line roughly 0.3mm wide).
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Its not bad Heather, I have recently put a MK1 BG together and did the masking with Tamiya masking tape. There was less over spray except in the corners where the tape had not stuck down too well, mainly because I had to cut it to the right width (27mm) and shape when it was already stuck on some wood to do this, I should have used a glass surface for this.

I will post a few pictures later.

Richard
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

that has turned out not bad at all, as you said earlier, a bit of cleaning up and away you go. Could the 'problem' be associated with the method of trimming the ali to size, in as much as it inclines to tear/catch the blade every so often, would a rolling cutter blade produce a cleaner edge? As I say, I try a few experiments soon and let you know the results.

cheers

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Could the 'problem' be associated with the method of trimming the ali to size, in as much as it inclines to tear/catch the blade every so often, would a rolling cutter blade produce a cleaner edge?
Nice idea Mike :thumbs: .

The Good Lady has an Olfa rotary cutter for cutting patchwork material - I shall have to try that on Alifoil... :cool: , no doubt I shall have to buy a new blade soon after :oops: :rolleyes: .

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Could the 'problem' be associated with the method of trimming the ali to size, in as much as it inclines to tear/catch the blade every so often

That is possible. I am also inclined to the view that more adhesive is needed at the edges of the foil, and that the thinned paint tends to loosen the adhesive sufficiently to allow the paint to wick under.

I've cleaned everything up now - the enamel grey panel as predicted was problematic, but judicious careful brushwork hides the worst. Thoughts now turn to the white lining. :)

Overall, I'm pleased with the idea. If the wrinkles and rough edges (ho ho) can be sorted out, it should work well.

Cheers all.
 

ZiderHead

Western Thunderer
Hi

My first WT post! I'll introduce myself properly when the Flying Squad have changed my forum name to something more appropriate, but in the meantime ...

Thought you might be interested in a technique a friend of mine in the US uses, which you are already close to.

He does some spectacular aircraft modelling and airbrushes everything. He uses tamiya tape for most of his masking, but for really precise work on intricate parts he uses Bare-Metal Foil. This is the incredibly thin self adhesive alloy foil thats usually used for bare metal aircraft finishes (although strangely he prefers to paint his bare metal aircraft).

The advantage is that it can be cut more accurately than plastic tape and because its so thin it forms over surface details really well, giving a really crisp line with no leakage. It is not cheap though, so he cuts strips for the edges and uses wider tamiya tape to mask the rest. It apparently comes off quite easily and cleanly.

Might be worth a try :)

Jon
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
My first WT post! I'll introduce myself properly when the Flying Squad have changed my forum name to something more appropriate, but in the meantime ...
"Bill Lumbergh" seems a fine enough name for a member who uses "Bill Lumbergh" on the profile page... :confused: .
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The advantage is that it can be cut more accurately than plastic tape and because its so thin it forms over surface details really well, giving a really crisp line with no leakage. It is not cheap though, so he cuts strips for the edges and uses wider tamiya tape to mask the rest. It apparently comes off quite easily and cleanly.

Jon, that's a good idea. I wonder if that's where my scheme originated, stored away in the dusty attic of my head because it may come in handy one day.

Oh, and welcome aboard. :thumbs:
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Heather, I have a roll of Sylglas somewhere, that is an aluminium substrate with a sticky surface... actually about 1/4" thick of sticky surface. Last used to weather seal some glazing on a garage.... might be usable to weather seal some glazing on a 7mm model :p .

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
actually about 1/4" thick of sticky surface.

It would certainly do the job, but it may require some care in application. :))

I am contemplating white lines. I am contemplating using designer's gouache instead of enamel. Several reasons for this, the most important being it's a damned sight easier to clean up any cock-ups mistakes as you work.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Before my eyeballs gave out for the night, I managed to get the right mixture of water and gouache so it flowed nicely from a bow pen. Eschewing my normal Bob Moore pen (the gouache didn't like it, sadly), I have actually managed to line all six sides this evening. I'll review them - and photograph them - in the morning for any remedial work, then I need to get some sealing/protective varnish on the sides and ends before I finally get to put the damned things together.

If Richard is reading this, I would hope they will be ready for collection/delivery some time next week. :thumbs:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right, white lines and other bits all as spick and span as I can get them.

IMG_4988.jpg

IMG_4989.jpg

IMG_4990.jpg

Lovely barrelling there on the macro setting.

A quick squirt of satin varnish to seal everything and then - drum roll, please - glazing! By the end of the weekend, I hope I'll have completed coaches.

An interesting aside here. The Mk1 kits use injection moulded parts for the glazing. The Mk2s have laser-cut plastic sheet, and the ventilators are glued on after. I am considering double-sided tape to fix them to the clear part. Watch this space.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The Mk2s have laser-cut plastic sheet, and the ventilators are glued on after. I am considering double-sided tape to fix them to the clear part...
How about the permanent form of Scotch Spraymount? Spray the etch and then apply.... no pfaffing with cutting tape.
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
How about the permanent form of Scotch Spraymount? Spray the etch and then apply.... no pfaffing with cutting tape.

I'd need to acquire some. I think the tape won't be a bother, since the last cut vents need to be separated from their carrier. A quick pass round the edges with a sharp blade should do it.

I must say, I'm looking forward to seeing these beasties in one piece with their roofs on now. :drool:
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I admire your tenacity and application to the task in hand very much Heather, and I think the coaches look very good indeed, even at the cruel enlargements you have shown us:thumbs:

Most impressive.

Simon
 
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