7mm On Heather's Workbench - three is a magic number
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A quick update on progress.
I've just been up to the paint shop for a quick squirt or two before I have to go out for a couple of hours. The conditions up there are pretty ideal, frankly. The temperature is not too high, the humidity about right, and the paint mix for the crimson about as perfect as you could wish for. Paint is virtually drying as soon as it hits the surface, which means once I've been through the six sides, the first is ready for another coat.
Hopefully they won't need much more crimson and I can get the gloss varnish on this afternoon ready for the transfers.
I'm still not convinced by the colour. It seems a little too close to the later maroon, but then my recollection of the actual colour relies on printed reproduction of colour slides taken at the time. When I compare it to a Bachmann Farish Mk1 BCK I have on my shelf here, it's about the same, so it must be right according to the lights of current accepted knowledge. *shrug*
My mind turns now to the stage that follows painting, which is glazing. I need to work out which compartments were designated non-smoking. The GWR apparently designated smoking compartments with window labels, and I can't quite figure out whether the D94 brake third smoking compartment became a non-smoker under BR. Careful perusal of the available photos will be required, I think.
I've just been up to the paint shop for a quick squirt or two before I have to go out for a couple of hours. The conditions up there are pretty ideal, frankly. The temperature is not too high, the humidity about right, and the paint mix for the crimson about as perfect as you could wish for. Paint is virtually drying as soon as it hits the surface, which means once I've been through the six sides, the first is ready for another coat.
Hopefully they won't need much more crimson and I can get the gloss varnish on this afternoon ready for the transfers.
I'm still not convinced by the colour. It seems a little too close to the later maroon, but then my recollection of the actual colour relies on printed reproduction of colour slides taken at the time. When I compare it to a Bachmann Farish Mk1 BCK I have on my shelf here, it's about the same, so it must be right according to the lights of current accepted knowledge. *shrug*
My mind turns now to the stage that follows painting, which is glazing. I need to work out which compartments were designated non-smoking. The GWR apparently designated smoking compartments with window labels, and I can't quite figure out whether the D94 brake third smoking compartment became a non-smoker under BR. Careful perusal of the available photos will be required, I think.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Well, it's time to test that pudding. Time to see if the masking was adequate, whether the window blanks did their job, and how much retouching is needed before the gloss varnish coat.
It's a good sign when the masking tape comes away cleanly. I like this Tamiya stuff.
And now...
The E127 composite. I managed to let the masking tape droop half a mil on the left hand end of the corridor side.
Otherwise, it's just dealing with a bit of crimson overspray and touching in the cream where required.
The C54 third. Masking tape level this time. Just the overspray and a little retouching.
Finally the D94 brake third. As with the C54, just the overspray and retouching to do.
I'm fairly pleased with the outcome, if I'm honest. The photos here make the crimson look a little brighter than in real life. This evening I will spend some time sorting out the bloopers, and if I'm lucky get a coat of gloss on them to dry overnight. Then it'll be transfer time!
It's a good sign when the masking tape comes away cleanly. I like this Tamiya stuff.
And now...
The E127 composite. I managed to let the masking tape droop half a mil on the left hand end of the corridor side.
Otherwise, it's just dealing with a bit of crimson overspray and touching in the cream where required.The C54 third. Masking tape level this time. Just the overspray and a little retouching.
Finally the D94 brake third. As with the C54, just the overspray and retouching to do.
I'm fairly pleased with the outcome, if I'm honest. The photos here make the crimson look a little brighter than in real life. This evening I will spend some time sorting out the bloopers, and if I'm lucky get a coat of gloss on them to dry overnight. Then it'll be transfer time!
richard carr
Western Thunderer
They are looking great Heather, hopefully you will have them finished soon.
Richard
Richard
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard! Yes, I reckon by the end of the next week they'll be close to completion. Mind you, I keep saying things like that, only to miss such self-imposed deadlines by a country mile!
Since about 10 this morning I have been lining and lettering one side.
Actually, that's not too bad, and it's better to take your time over such things. I'm using Fox waterslide for the lining and lettering. The BR livery lining is deceptively simple, yet takes a deal of time because of the nature of the coaches to which it is applied. Demarcating the cream from crimson is black and gold lining.The gold is on the cream side of the line. Um, gold on the crimson side... 
Here's the workbench setup for transfers. The magnifying lamp is probably the single best investment in modelling tools I've made. Even on a bright day like today, working under the magnifier is the only way I can see what I'm doing! Perhaps I should speak to my optician and get some new specs that let me focus closer than my outstretched arm.
Other tools in use are a fine sable brush, a pencil, some fine tweezers and a scalpel with ready supply of sharp 10A blades.
At the back you can see the jury-rigged water bath. Fox recommend warm water. Not cold, not boiling, but warm. The problem is how the deuce do you keep the water warm while you're working at applying transfers over a period of some hours?
My answer is an aluminium foil try sat over a tea light. The only problem is the water gets hot locally above the flame, and doesn't seem to set up any convection currents to mix it nicely. I stir it occasionally to spread the warmth about a bit.
It's just plain tap water, with a drop of washing-up liquid as recommended by Fox. As you know, the coach sides have been treated to a coat of gloss varnish, also recommended by the manufacturer.
Because the sides are broken up by doors, I opted to trim lengths of the lining transfer to fit each panel. It's easier than trying to bed the transfer down into the gaps. As I completed the first set of lining along the top edge of the corridor side of the C64, I reckoned I could just as easily - and more quickly, to be honest - done the lining with the bow pen. I'll complete this coach with the transfers, because while it takes time it is actually quite relaxing in a funny kind of way. The other two coach I may well line with paint. I'll decide that later.
(The technique would be to line the gold, which would actually be a buff colour as you can't see it's gold anyway. Once that is dry, black would be lined over it to leave the thinner "gold". Sounds simple, and it is really. Also a lot quicker than piecing together fragments of transfer...)
Anyway, having trimmed a section of lining and dunked it for some seconds, I wetted the area where it was to be placed using the brush loaded with water. Picking the transfer paper out of the tray with tweezers, I teased the transfer from its backing onto the model. There followed a little while of persuading the lining to sit where I wanted it.
Once happy with the location, a clean cotton bud is gently pressed over the transfer to soak up excess water. If the gods are with me, the transfer beds down nicely. If they are against me, the transfer comes away with the cotton bud, and I have to start again with a fresh strip. You can't really reseat the things once the gum has soaked away, so it's best to start over.
Fox helpfully provide guidelines attached below each character on their numbering sheets. It's a nice idea, but I found in practice attempting to trim the carrier away ended up with the number moving anyway. I ended up trimming the number out and aligning things by eye - although I stuck a strip of masking tape just below where I thought the baseline ought to be as an aid. I think this running number is a little high, and could be shifted to the right a gnat's to allow for the commode handle on its left. What does the team think?
Once lettering and lining has been done, I shall set each side aside for 24 hours before I try to put the protective satin varnish on top.
Since about 10 this morning I have been lining and lettering one side.
Actually, that's not too bad, and it's better to take your time over such things. I'm using Fox waterslide for the lining and lettering. The BR livery lining is deceptively simple, yet takes a deal of time because of the nature of the coaches to which it is applied. Demarcating the cream from crimson is black and gold lining.
Here's the workbench setup for transfers. The magnifying lamp is probably the single best investment in modelling tools I've made. Even on a bright day like today, working under the magnifier is the only way I can see what I'm doing! Perhaps I should speak to my optician and get some new specs that let me focus closer than my outstretched arm.
Other tools in use are a fine sable brush, a pencil, some fine tweezers and a scalpel with ready supply of sharp 10A blades.
At the back you can see the jury-rigged water bath. Fox recommend warm water. Not cold, not boiling, but warm. The problem is how the deuce do you keep the water warm while you're working at applying transfers over a period of some hours?
My answer is an aluminium foil try sat over a tea light. The only problem is the water gets hot locally above the flame, and doesn't seem to set up any convection currents to mix it nicely. I stir it occasionally to spread the warmth about a bit.
It's just plain tap water, with a drop of washing-up liquid as recommended by Fox. As you know, the coach sides have been treated to a coat of gloss varnish, also recommended by the manufacturer.
Because the sides are broken up by doors, I opted to trim lengths of the lining transfer to fit each panel. It's easier than trying to bed the transfer down into the gaps. As I completed the first set of lining along the top edge of the corridor side of the C64, I reckoned I could just as easily - and more quickly, to be honest - done the lining with the bow pen. I'll complete this coach with the transfers, because while it takes time it is actually quite relaxing in a funny kind of way. The other two coach I may well line with paint. I'll decide that later.
(The technique would be to line the gold, which would actually be a buff colour as you can't see it's gold anyway. Once that is dry, black would be lined over it to leave the thinner "gold". Sounds simple, and it is really. Also a lot quicker than piecing together fragments of transfer...)
Anyway, having trimmed a section of lining and dunked it for some seconds, I wetted the area where it was to be placed using the brush loaded with water. Picking the transfer paper out of the tray with tweezers, I teased the transfer from its backing onto the model. There followed a little while of persuading the lining to sit where I wanted it.
Once happy with the location, a clean cotton bud is gently pressed over the transfer to soak up excess water. If the gods are with me, the transfer beds down nicely. If they are against me, the transfer comes away with the cotton bud, and I have to start again with a fresh strip. You can't really reseat the things once the gum has soaked away, so it's best to start over.
Fox helpfully provide guidelines attached below each character on their numbering sheets. It's a nice idea, but I found in practice attempting to trim the carrier away ended up with the number moving anyway. I ended up trimming the number out and aligning things by eye - although I stuck a strip of masking tape just below where I thought the baseline ought to be as an aid. I think this running number is a little high, and could be shifted to the right a gnat's to allow for the commode handle on its left. What does the team think?
Once lettering and lining has been done, I shall set each side aside for 24 hours before I try to put the protective satin varnish on top.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Heather, would you mind sharing what make/model of magnifier that is? It looks so much better than the one that I have that I don't use because the lens is only about 3" in diameter making it very difficult to see what you are working on.
The sides look good
- I too would have used a bow pen but I do know what you mean about some jobs like appying transfers being relaxing.
The sides look good
- I too would have used a bow pen but I do know what you mean about some jobs like appying transfers being relaxing.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob.
If memory serves we bought it from an outfit called Chronos, over in Luton.
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/s...aft_Lamps__Magnifiers___Optical.html#aPLA8069
Not cheap, but quality never is.
Having reviewed the prototype photos - again! - my number was too high, though being bunched up to the commode handle was right! I've redone the number, centred vertically on the door bumpers, and with a bit more space between the Ws and the number. It looks much better now.
I might just get the other side done today!
If memory serves we bought it from an outfit called Chronos, over in Luton.
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/s...aft_Lamps__Magnifiers___Optical.html#aPLA8069
Not cheap, but quality never is.
Having reviewed the prototype photos - again! - my number was too high, though being bunched up to the commode handle was right! I've redone the number, centred vertically on the door bumpers, and with a bit more space between the Ws and the number. It looks much better now.
I might just get the other side done today!
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Thanks Heather
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Phew! I've done better than I thought I would manage. I've got one pair of sides left to line and letter, and I'm going to do that tomorrow.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Heather,
Have you checked the lining colours against a period photo? 'Cos I always thought it was the black that went next to the cream...
I'd be very happy to be wrong though!
Steph
Have you checked the lining colours against a period photo? 'Cos I always thought it was the black that went next to the cream...
I'd be very happy to be wrong though!
Steph
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
You are not wrong.
I misread the text in Haresnape's book. It was going so well, too.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I am now more or less back to where I was this time yesterday - only this time with the lining the right way up. I can be a prize plank sometimes. 
Of course, I'm now in danger of running out of lining sheet, so I've ordered in new supplies which will hopefully arrive in the next day or two. I could jump ahead and satin coat the sides I've done so at least I can begin glazing operations.
I find this with projects like this. You get so close to completion, but little niggly things prevent you from finishing as soon as you'd like. It's a bit like wandering round a maze, being able to spy the finish but never quite finding the way through.
Of course, I'm now in danger of running out of lining sheet, so I've ordered in new supplies which will hopefully arrive in the next day or two. I could jump ahead and satin coat the sides I've done so at least I can begin glazing operations.
I find this with projects like this. You get so close to completion, but little niggly things prevent you from finishing as soon as you'd like. It's a bit like wandering round a maze, being able to spy the finish but never quite finding the way through.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Well done for recognising what needed to be done and getting on with it, most impressive
More imperative than impressive, I'd say. It was annoyingly silly mistake, and one easy to rectify at the stage I'd reached.
Tuesday was a day of two steps forward, one step back. I completed the lining and lettering on the last coach sides in the morning, and left things to dry and set for a spell before risking a top coat of satin varnish.
The varnish went on later, all looked well. Only under closer inspection, some serious grollies had made their way onto the surface. I couldn't live with that. So, I got out the wet'n'dry and fibreglass scratch brush and set about smoothing things down. Trying my hardest to avoid too much base coat damage, sadly it became clear one or two pesky dust spots had settled below the crimson paint. Rubbing them down left a tiny primer spot showing through.
Anyway, I retouched things as best I could, and left things for the night. Later today I am going to apply a gloss varnish coat, which I hope will return the depth of colour I've sanded away.
Then a final satin coat will be the last job. The temptation is to rush headlong, but getting the finish right is something that must be lingered over. Patience, I am told, is a virtue.
I am currently considering a drift of plain black over the underframes. I finished them in grot brown, to client request, but I now think they'll look very wrong with the pristine bodies on top. If I tone things down a bit with some black, they'll look a bit more in keeping.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The gloss coat went on yesterday. On inspection this morning, tiny fibres had found their way onto the surface again. Serious consideration about how I can make a budget clean room environment for this kind of work will follow. It might make an interesting thread.
A quick light rub with some fine wet'n'dry, and I've decided to accept some grollies in the paintwork are inevitable and put the satin coat on. If needed, I'll do a second coat later, just for safety and hard-wearingness.
I drifted some black over the underframes as well. They look a little better than the pure dark brown of before. I think the bogies will need the same treatment to keep things consistent.
Now, the waiting game while the varnish dries hard. Perhaps I should entertain myself with another project or two. There's a pair on LNWR coaches that need reviewing, a 9F, and not forgetting the Ivatt 2MT.
A quick light rub with some fine wet'n'dry, and I've decided to accept some grollies in the paintwork are inevitable and put the satin coat on. If needed, I'll do a second coat later, just for safety and hard-wearingness.
I drifted some black over the underframes as well. They look a little better than the pure dark brown of before. I think the bogies will need the same treatment to keep things consistent.
Now, the waiting game while the varnish dries hard. Perhaps I should entertain myself with another project or two. There's a pair on LNWR coaches that need reviewing, a 9F, and not forgetting the Ivatt 2MT.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I may well be picking your brains about castings and things suitable for it. Be warned.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
With patience - and care, only managing to scratch one side once - I have applied the brasswork details to the sides.
The brass castings for the commode handles were barely close to the correct shape for the real thing. I believe the preformed holes are also too close to the door, so forming the right shape meant the handle would overlap the door. The tee-handle holes are also too close to the edge...
The guard's handles are better mouldings, but the holes are way off. You can see a spare hole just below the tee-handle. I had to drill holes for the bottom of the S-shaped handle, and the top of the C-shaped handle. Of course, handles being one of the last things to be added meant I didn't spot these errors earlier in the construction process.
Anyway, scuffed varnish aside, I am now breaking glass. Glazing may take some time.
- I have applied the brasswork details to the sides.The brass castings for the commode handles were barely close to the correct shape for the real thing. I believe the preformed holes are also too close to the door, so forming the right shape meant the handle would overlap the door. The tee-handle holes are also too close to the edge...
The guard's handles are better mouldings, but the holes are way off. You can see a spare hole just below the tee-handle. I had to drill holes for the bottom of the S-shaped handle, and the top of the C-shaped handle.
Of course, handles being one of the last things to be added meant I didn't spot these errors earlier in the construction process. Anyway, scuffed varnish aside, I am now breaking glass. Glazing may take some time.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Looks great Heather 
