Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Farm animals/livestock are available from Preiser (1:43), Noch (1:43), Woodland Scenics (1:48) and Evemodel (1:48). If you're not too
Farm animals/livestock are available from Preiser (1:43), Noch (1:43), Woodland Scenics (1:48) and Evemodel (1:48). If you're not too
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave,
I’ve already stuck the smaller, single window bars to the smaller windows, but I have spares.
I’ll print the double windows tomorrow, and try your suggestion, and then either replace the single ones, or make the doubles unpainted.
I recall a discussion a while back, @LarryG suggested the bars should perhaps be white if my memory serves.
cheers
Simon
I’ve already stuck the smaller, single window bars to the smaller windows, but I have spares.
I’ll print the double windows tomorrow, and try your suggestion, and then either replace the single ones, or make the doubles unpainted.
I recall a discussion a while back, @LarryG suggested the bars should perhaps be white if my memory serves.
cheers
Simon
Mike W
Western Thunderer
Unfortunately not in 1:22.5 though. And the couple that are, are actually far too big.
Mike
LarryG
Western Thunderer
I'm not sure I said they should be white when they appear to be black-ish in photos of GWR brake coaches. I simply scribe vertical window bars on the glazing.
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Larry, I did try to find the conversation, both on here and on RMW but failed. I recall you talking about scribing them. The vehicle concerned (70’ van) is in a coach box, buried under a mountain of stuff, and I’m disinclined to dig it out.
I’ll try Dave’s suggestion, and see where I go from there.
ta
Simon
paulc
Western Thunderer
Hi Larry and Simon , wouldn't they appear like that due to shadow , dust and general grot that collects on horizontal and vertical surfaces . How does it do that
I have no idea what the original colour was but i would do them in shades of grey .
simond
Western Thunderer
Thingiverse…. There is a cow, and a sheep model, they are noteworthy as they appear to be a Japanese modeller, so I downloaded them, and bunged a few on last night’s print run.
the sheep were printed at 45%, as I looked up the dimensions of a sheep, and Google found a website that provides them, and scaled accordingly! I’m pretty happy with the size. The cows are all different scaling, 100, 95, 90 and 85%, I think any of them are reasonable, but I’m no bovine expert.
I shall add links. I shall search for more. I need a collie or two now…
the sheep were printed at 45%, as I looked up the dimensions of a sheep, and Google found a website that provides them, and scaled accordingly! I’m pretty happy with the size. The cows are all different scaling, 100, 95, 90 and 85%, I think any of them are reasonable, but I’m no bovine expert.
I shall add links. I shall search for more. I need a collie or two now…
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Did you ever think that you'd be looking up the dimensions of a sheep? I have heard of a song by the Wonder stuff: Size of a Cow...
simond
Western Thunderer
3DP is a very useful tool.
Two drilling jigs. Without which, I doubt I could have drilled 32 holes like this without slipping at least once.
if you’re struggling to see them, they’re for the bars that stop the cows‘ noses going out of gauge. 4 long, and 4 short per side. The bars will have their ends flattened, and pinned into the said holes.
Now, I’m quite pleased with this trick, and I’m cursing my lack of foresight - if I had thought to put some kind of slot across the jigs, I could have used them to drill the flattened ends of the bars. As it is, a couple of bits of microstrip will do the same.
The black things are magnetic angle clamps - they work but they’re a bit of a fiddle. The magnets are 5 diameter by 5 long and cost 7 quid for 50.
Two drilling jigs. Without which, I doubt I could have drilled 32 holes like this without slipping at least once.
if you’re struggling to see them, they’re for the bars that stop the cows‘ noses going out of gauge. 4 long, and 4 short per side. The bars will have their ends flattened, and pinned into the said holes.
Now, I’m quite pleased with this trick, and I’m cursing my lack of foresight - if I had thought to put some kind of slot across the jigs, I could have used them to drill the flattened ends of the bars. As it is, a couple of bits of microstrip will do the same.
The black things are magnetic angle clamps - they work but they’re a bit of a fiddle. The magnets are 5 diameter by 5 long and cost 7 quid for 50.
simond
Western Thunderer
20 hour print…. Happily it came out well.
and it fits
Which is a relief
and the girls aren’t complaining, though I very much doubt they’d be allowed any room to move around much in the real world, for their own safety if nothing else. But resin cows are not compliant or compressible!
Next, a chassis!
The sharp eyed amongst the congregation will have noted that I didn’t flatten the bars and drill them, because the picture didn’t show that - I’m sure there was some kind of end fitting but it looked rather like the end was bent over and glued in a hole. So that’s precisely what I did…
and it fits
Which is a relief
and the girls aren’t complaining, though I very much doubt they’d be allowed any room to move around much in the real world, for their own safety if nothing else. But resin cows are not compliant or compressible!
Next, a chassis!
The sharp eyed amongst the congregation will have noted that I didn’t flatten the bars and drill them, because the picture didn’t show that - I’m sure there was some kind of end fitting but it looked rather like the end was bent over and glued in a hole. So that’s precisely what I did…
timbowales
Western Thunderer
That looks very good, Simon
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tim,
I’m pleased with it, the resin mouldings suggest a good master, and I hope I’ve done the maker justice. It’s not a wagon I’d have gone out of my way to make, though entirely reasonable on a GW line in N Wales, and having found the mouldings, I couldn’t resist!
The CAD time for the roof was truly minutes, maybe less than quarter of an hour, last thing last night, though it took a very long time to print. But then, I was either asleep, or at work, so no worries on that score. To draw up the body sides & ends would be some hours’ work, I think, so having them ready made was a bonus. I’d not have done it otherwise.
cheers
Simon
I’m pleased with it, the resin mouldings suggest a good master, and I hope I’ve done the maker justice. It’s not a wagon I’d have gone out of my way to make, though entirely reasonable on a GW line in N Wales, and having found the mouldings, I couldn’t resist!
The CAD time for the roof was truly minutes, maybe less than quarter of an hour, last thing last night, though it took a very long time to print. But then, I was either asleep, or at work, so no worries on that score. To draw up the body sides & ends would be some hours’ work, I think, so having them ready made was a bonus. I’d not have done it otherwise.
cheers
Simon
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
20 hour print…. Happily it came out well.
View attachment 235355
and it fits
View attachment 235356
Which is a relief
View attachment 235357
and the girls aren’t complaining, though I very much doubt they’d be allowed any room to move around much in the real world, for their own safety if nothing else. But resin cows are not compliant or compressible!
Next, a chassis!
The sharp eyed amongst the congregation will have noted that I didn’t flatten the bars and drill them, because the picture didn’t show that - I’m sure there was some kind of end fitting but it looked rather like the end was bent over and glued in a hole. So that’s precisely what I did…
Simond
A super bit of printing going on
John
simond
Western Thunderer
Being curious (and you may read that as you wish) I obtained a Dapol signal to see if I could interface it to my Arduino-CAN set up.
The signals are not at all bad, and are much cheaper than custom made, and much easier than DIY. I like building signals, but they are a fair task, and so an RTP solution is welcome, at least for the simple stuff.
Being curious, I took it to bits. It would appear that a previous owner had done the same as the screws securing the base to the box were missing.
in simple terms, the signal is spring loaded to the off position (it’s an LMS UQ), don’t know if the GW are spring loaded “up” hence danger, or “off”) and a curved arm on a standard 9g servo pushes the actuating rod to move the arm. There are two circuit boards in the box, one to rectify and regulate the voltage, and one to drive the servo.
The same board, with missing components added, would do a junction signal. There is room for the second servo below the first. There are spring pins to carry current to the lamp. Altogether, a decent job.
The signal is operated by means of an SPCO switch. I will order a few optoisolators, because I’m confident that I can replicate the CO function using the Arduino output, which will turn the optos on or off, and they will, I hope, switch the signal.
The other option is to junk the Dapol control system and simply use the Arduino to drive the servo directly, as I do with DIY signals, but that seems a bit unnecessary, and warranty busting.
I’m still left with the question; why they didn’t design it so the actuator box was screwed to the baseboard, and the signal simply plugged in. I’m sure this would have been more popular as the vulnerable bit could easily be removed for transport, or layout cleaning, rather than being fixed sticking out. I guess this way is very simple, and the footprint above ground is pretty much scale.
More soon.
Simon
The signals are not at all bad, and are much cheaper than custom made, and much easier than DIY. I like building signals, but they are a fair task, and so an RTP solution is welcome, at least for the simple stuff.
Being curious, I took it to bits. It would appear that a previous owner had done the same as the screws securing the base to the box were missing.
in simple terms, the signal is spring loaded to the off position (it’s an LMS UQ), don’t know if the GW are spring loaded “up” hence danger, or “off”) and a curved arm on a standard 9g servo pushes the actuating rod to move the arm. There are two circuit boards in the box, one to rectify and regulate the voltage, and one to drive the servo.
The same board, with missing components added, would do a junction signal. There is room for the second servo below the first. There are spring pins to carry current to the lamp. Altogether, a decent job.
The signal is operated by means of an SPCO switch. I will order a few optoisolators, because I’m confident that I can replicate the CO function using the Arduino output, which will turn the optos on or off, and they will, I hope, switch the signal.
The other option is to junk the Dapol control system and simply use the Arduino to drive the servo directly, as I do with DIY signals, but that seems a bit unnecessary, and warranty busting.
I’m still left with the question; why they didn’t design it so the actuator box was screwed to the baseboard, and the signal simply plugged in. I’m sure this would have been more popular as the vulnerable bit could easily be removed for transport, or layout cleaning, rather than being fixed sticking out. I guess this way is very simple, and the footprint above ground is pretty much scale.
More soon.
Simon
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,
Like yourself I was curious about the Dapol 7mm signals and, when I saw they did a LSWR lattice, I picked one up at Kettering.
General impression was favourable when removed from the box and compared to prototype photos. If anything, the lattice is a little bit coarse compared to an etched brass kit, but I suspect a spot of weathering will help there.
Certainly seems to be good value for a fully working and lit signal. At the very least it's a good placeholder which could be replaced at a much later date.
I've heard some grumbles on line about the early 4mm releases expiring electrically and this being something to do with the supply voltage. Would be interesting to see what you think about the internal gubbins in this respect.
Like yourself I'm not taken by the means of fixing. The signal is effectively bolted to the baseboard top and a heavyish control box is left dangling off the bottom. OK for a home layout but I suspect will end up damaged on an exhibition layout due to transit knocks and vibrations.
I can see why they have done it that way though as enables the signal to be fitted to a wide variety of baseboard thicknesses.
simond
Western Thunderer
I can see no obvious reasons to worry about the internals, but it’s not really my terrain. The boards are clearly made on a high volume automated line, they're neat, clean, properly screened, solder looks good etc, but the design? I’d guess they’re fine.
I could ask a tame electronics Engineer…
I could ask a tame electronics Engineer…