SimonD’s workbench

[simond]

Thanks to Chris’ suggestion @Pencarrow , 3DP was tried, and either works, or will work with minor tweaks.

This was printed on a Bambu FDM printer with an 0.2 nozzle



whilst the window bars show promise, there is ample evidence that my figure painting is about as hopeful as my figure skating…

well reprint them today with slightly thicker bars, these are 0.2mm so probably about scale, they're not fragile but they’re not quite crisp. There’s some ”blobbing“ at some joints - this seems pretty random - and as they weigh less than nothing, I can print lots, for ha’pennies, and choose the best

atb
Simon

 

[Hayfield1]

Simon

I am slightly confused (which is normal for 3D printing)

I thought resin was printed from a light source in a tank and FDM filament was printed through a heated nozzle ?

 

[simond]

Simon

I am slightly confused (which is normal for 3D printing)

I thought resin was printed from a light source in a tank and FDM filament was printed through a heated nozzle ?

thanks John,

corrected!

SD

 

[Hayfield1]

Thanks to Chris’ suggestion @Pencarrow , 3DP was tried, and either works, or will work with minor tweaks.

This was printed on a Bambu FDM printer with an 0.2 nozzle

View attachment 234754

whilst the window bars show promise, there is ample evidence that my figure painting is about as hopeful as my figure skating…

well reprint them today with slightly thicker bars, these are 0.2mm so probably about scale, they're not fragile but they’re not quite crisp. There’s some ”blobbing“ at some joints - this seems pretty random - and as they weigh less than nothing, I can print lots, for ha’pennies, and choose the best

atb
Simon

Simon

There has been some talk recently regarding the advancements in FDM printers, with the Bambu mine and the ready built Elegoo Centauri printer. Both in the ease of getting started and printing

The other thing we have found is that Sunlu PLA+ is giving us far better printing results than other filaments and recently Martin has found Bambu PLA basic is equally as good. Detail is crisper and far fewer is any at all stringing. And this is with 0.4mm nozzles. Martin is now trying out 0.2mm nozzles on the Bambu mini. But using Elegoo Neptune 4 printers with 0.4 nozzles and Sunlu PLA+ filament we can now print 4mm turnouts and plain track to excellent standards. In short Make and type of filament matter as much as the printers

Still an excellent piece of modelling Simon, well done

John

 

[magmouse]

The other thing we have found is that Sunlu PLA+ is giving us far better printing results than other filaments and recently Martin has found Bambu PLA basic is equally as good.

Interesting - my results on a Bambu A1 Mini have been marginally better with Bambu PLA basic than with the Sunlu PLA+, but not a lot in it. I have mostly been using the 0.4mm nozzle, but have experimented a little with 0.2. I need to do some more experimenting to really dial in settings with the 0.2 for the best results when fine detail is needed.

Nick.

 

[timbowales]

Simon, just a thought that might save you some time and effort.
These bars are going behind glazing? Once the coach has been weathered with slightly grubby windows will anyone actually see the blobs?

 

[Hayfield1]

Interesting - my results on a Bambu A1 Mini have been marginally better with Bambu PLA basic than with the Sunlu PLA+, but not a lot in it. I have mostly been using the 0.4mm nozzle, but have experimented a little with 0.2. I need to do some more experimenting to really dial in settings with the 0.2 for the best results when fine detail is needed.

Nick.

Nick I found both Esun and Anycubic no where near as good as Sunlu which is giving us excellent results, Martin is also very pleased with Bambu PLA basic

John

 

[simond]

Following some tweaking, print run # 4 has been most successful, better that the ones above.

Photos to follow

Behind glazing? Yes.
See the blobs? Probably only in silhouette - which is probably the only time you can actually see the window bars..

I think we have a solution that can be generally applied, which is quick and cheap, and which is far less effort that the soldered versions I made for the last van.

 

[simond]

10x zoom and not properly centred, but good enough, I think, to show the principle. FDP printed grilles. Much, much easier than soldered wire, much cheaper and quicker than etch. And black already.

I was going to photograph with the roof on but they’re almost invisible. Maybe when the inside is painted and there are some churns..,



And the guard has somewhere to sit, and do his log




If this weather continues, I might get some primer on it over the weekend

 

[simond]

Does anyone recognise the prototype? Resin sides and ends for a cattle truck, provenance unknown.

Nicely cast, and pretty much flat, I think they’ll make up nicely, but I’d like to get a photo to work to. No under frame so I’ll have to make that.

132mm long so 18’10”, and 56mm wide so 8’, I’m guessing the ends go inside the sides.

Any ideas?

Ta
Simon

 

[timbowales]

Simon, the "invisibility" factor was why I questioned worrying about blobs

 

[timbowales]

View attachment 234930Does anyone recognise the prototype? Resin sides and ends for a cattle truck, provenance unknown.

Nicely cast, and pretty much flat, I think they’ll make up nicely, but I’d like to get a photo to work to. No under frame so I’ll have to make that.

132mm long so 18’10”, and 56mm wide so 8’, I’m guessing the ends go inside the sides.

Any ideas?

Ta
Simon

As I've got GWR Wagons open on my lap I've just had a look at cattle wagons, it's definitely not GWR.
Just googled LMS cattle wagons and the planking matches aDia 1661 one

 

[simond]

Thanks Tim,

I guessed LMS / LNWR so that makes sense.

cheers
Simon

 

[daifly]

It has the look of a Meteor Models or Richard de Camin kit. Richard did a lot of the Meteor Models masters.

I don't have a Meteor list but I'm looking!

Dave

 

[simond]

Dia 1661 LMS Cattle van

The LMS built 2050 of these wagons between 1923 and 1926. They lasted in use until the early 1960s. Initially unfitted, some were through piped and some were fitted, later in life.

Found a picture showing wooden underframe, all woodwork pale grey with black ironwork, “LMS” on left of doors, looks like the wagon number is below the L, unfitted/not piped, either side brakes, 3 hole wheels, screw couplings, two metal bars across the gaps at the top. Roof is not clear but looks paler than body paint, so assume dirty white. Other photo shows some strapping across the roof. Assumed 10’ wheelbase.

Probably enough to go on. Need to download some 3D printable cows…

and finish my W Irons etches.

 

[Mike W]

Seriously, downloadable 3D printed cows would be really useful! I cast mine in resin but don't have the experience to get all the details - like legs and tails! - out every time.

Mike

 

[simond]

Hi Mike,

I did find a couple of cows, but only one that was useable, the other looked like a bovine version of Kryten from Red Dwarf.

I’ve found some sheep too, and a couple of horses. I’ll try to find the links and post them.

I hope the efforts to use AI to generate 3DP-able figures bear fruit. There are several people doing it and some results seem quite promising. Others…

There are some in the current EM monthly report.

atb
Simon

 

[paulc]

Hi Mike,

I did find a couple of cows, but only one that was useable, the other looked like a bovine version of Kryten from Red Dwarf.

I’ve found some sheep too, and a couple of horses. I’ll try to find the links and post them.

I hope the efforts to use AI to generate 3DP-able figures bear fruit. There are several people doing it and some results seem quite promising. Others…

There are some in the current EM monthly report.

atb
Simon

Try Modelu Simon , I've yet to fond anything remotely Kryten ish from them .

 

[simond]

Oh, the Modelu figures and animals are quite superb, and pricy.

And having a printer, it would be ideal to throw a couple of sheep, for example, into an empty bit of the build plate.

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Behind glazing? Yes.
See the blobs? Probably only in silhouette - which is probably the only time you can actually see the window bars..

When you look at mesh in reality in certain lighting conditions the cross joins appear blobby due to their construction and the way the light catches them creating shadows.

10x zoom and not properly centred, but good enough, I think, to show the principle. FDP printed grilles. Much, much easier than soldered wire, much cheaper and quicker than etch. And black already.

One thing I would be inclined to do before installation of the mesh/grilles is to lightly drybrush them with a light grey or gunmetal in a downward stroke to simulate the light catching them. They will then become partially visible once the roof is in place.