simond
Western Thunderer
thanks Stephen
I doubt that I can find the same thing again, though it would be nice! The photos in the Russell book show square mesh. I shall try to reproduce that.
cheers
Simon
I doubt that I can find the same thing again, though it would be nice! The photos in the Russell book show square mesh. I shall try to reproduce that.
cheers
Simon
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
As far as the SVR vehcle is concerned, it was probably still in the process of restoration. I bought the Blacksmith etch as I had used one on a B set, and have hopes of another one some day.
simond
Western Thunderer
I discovered today that the SVR vehicle is now a shop at Bewdley. I wonder if the guard’s compartment is still functional.
Meanwhile, I gave up soldering wires and Arduinos, and started on the milk van again. I think I have now finished the metalwork by fitting the footboards. The kit provides a couple of suitably sized strips of brass, but no toe board, and no provision for the cutouts to clear the axleboxes.
I soldered a piece of 0.7mm NS wire down the rear edge of each piece, being careful not to introduce a curl as it cooled, 0.7mm is about an inch and a quarter, and looked nicer than 1mm. I then marked out the cutouts and trimmed them out with a disc in the Proxxon, finishing with needle files.
I had an idea that I could make some hangers from flattened copper wire, and did that using a rolling bar to flatten some mains cable. On finding another photo, after I’d fitted them, obviously, it seems the originals were round bar, not flat. Ho hum, I might change them before I paint it, and then again, I might not. It’s robust. It maybe looks a little heavy but I suspect it won’t show when painted. We’ll see. I’m sure it would have been easier to just use round wire.
Meanwhile, I gave up soldering wires and Arduinos, and started on the milk van again. I think I have now finished the metalwork by fitting the footboards. The kit provides a couple of suitably sized strips of brass, but no toe board, and no provision for the cutouts to clear the axleboxes.
I soldered a piece of 0.7mm NS wire down the rear edge of each piece, being careful not to introduce a curl as it cooled, 0.7mm is about an inch and a quarter, and looked nicer than 1mm. I then marked out the cutouts and trimmed them out with a disc in the Proxxon, finishing with needle files.
I had an idea that I could make some hangers from flattened copper wire, and did that using a rolling bar to flatten some mains cable. On finding another photo, after I’d fitted them, obviously, it seems the originals were round bar, not flat. Ho hum, I might change them before I paint it, and then again, I might not. It’s robust. It maybe looks a little heavy but I suspect it won’t show when painted. We’ll see. I’m sure it would have been easier to just use round wire.
simond
Western Thunderer
Hi Paul, roof here. SimonD’s workbench
3DP, cartridge paper, microstrip & 3DP ventilators. Permanent spray glue to put the cartridge paper on, cyano for the ventilators and to stiffen the paper around the edges, MEK for the microstrip.
and no, nobody would have commented, but I had noticed. I doubt it took half an hour to fix, shame I wasted half an hou doing it wrong in the first place, but on the other hand, I proved that I can make flat bar from copper wire and that it is a useful material, as when it’s been rolled, and stretched, its very hard, thus stiff, and ideal for things like, well, flat bars…
3DP, cartridge paper, microstrip & 3DP ventilators. Permanent spray glue to put the cartridge paper on, cyano for the ventilators and to stiffen the paper around the edges, MEK for the microstrip.
and no, nobody would have commented, but I had noticed. I doubt it took half an hour to fix, shame I wasted half an hou doing it wrong in the first place, but on the other hand, I proved that I can make flat bar from copper wire and that it is a useful material, as when it’s been rolled, and stretched, its very hard, thus stiff, and ideal for things like, well, flat bars…
paulc
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon , when i went back with your link i realised that i had read the cartridge paper part but had blocked out the 3d print . I'm thinking that there may be something to this 3d printing lark but would it get the use to make it viable , the jury's out on that .
simond
Western Thunderer
It is extraordinarily useful, provided you have, or are prepared to acquire, the CAD skills.
Like any versatile tool, it can be tempting to use it when something else would perhaps be better. Resin and FDP are different in their applications. I don’t think FDP is good for model parts that are on-show, but there are all sorts of hidden applications such as signal bases with servo mounts, roofs, brackets for baseboards, etc, for which it is idea. Resin is fantastic for detail, but generally is brittle, and is known to warp if not thoroughly cured. It is also possible to 3DP transparent parts.
Coupled with hobby-accessible laser cutting & cnc machining, we are getting to a point when pretty much anything can be made at / better than a commercial standard.
Like any versatile tool, it can be tempting to use it when something else would perhaps be better. Resin and FDP are different in their applications. I don’t think FDP is good for model parts that are on-show, but there are all sorts of hidden applications such as signal bases with servo mounts, roofs, brackets for baseboards, etc, for which it is idea. Resin is fantastic for detail, but generally is brittle, and is known to warp if not thoroughly cured. It is also possible to 3DP transparent parts.
Coupled with hobby-accessible laser cutting & cnc machining, we are getting to a point when pretty much anything can be made at / better than a commercial standard.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
That's an interesting final point Simon. The difference in viability of home vs commercial printing. If an item takes 10mins to print and you can get a few £s for it then it's viable for both. If it takes many, many hours and with a high failure rate, then it's not going to be commercially viable but not too much of an issue for the person printing at home.
I suppose higher quality settings = more time printing, so again more viable for the home printer than the commercial one. This does however ignore that the commercial printer could well have more expensive, better and faster kit.
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Whilst my resin printing results have been mixed, I have found that its much easier to make things with FDM (filament) printers
Never a 10 min job but once the printer is running you can get on with other things, miss prints are not that common and usually noticed before anything goes too far. And for what I use it for (track building) it slashes the cost of track, whilst giving me a far more detailed model
John
simond
Western Thunderer
Fair point John, FDP does seem to be the bees’ knees for track.
I haven’t got there yet (I’m in no hurry and happy for you to make all the mistakes so I won’t have to
) but for me the jury’s still out between COT and plug track using laser ply timbers. I’ve tried the latter for a short length of plain track and it’s perfectly good. Pointwork may be another story.
I haven’t got there yet (I’m in no hurry and happy for you to make all the mistakes so I won’t have to
) but for me the jury’s still out between COT and plug track using laser ply timbers. I’ve tried the latter for a short length of plain track and it’s perfectly good. Pointwork may be another story.
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
A couple of photos of the SVR vehicle some years ago
