Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tony, I notice that the wheels look like Stanier wheels instead of Fowler flat flanges.
Len
Len
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Richard Lambert helpfully pointed out at the weekend that the insulation on the San Cheng Scot is actually at the axle instead of at the wheel rim ( my experience on previous upgrades). That poses an extra challenge during the rebuild as the crankpins are mounted in plastic bushes. For the driving axle I screwed in 8BA screws and used nuts on the inside of the wheel, retaining the original insulating washers. The whole lot was glued with epoxy, so that here is a solid basis for the return crank. Lets hope... The return crank will be on a threaded top hat, which will wind against a length of tube which will act as the bearing for the rods..
I've also started making up the rods and with a little work was able to make up a proper forked join with 3 laminations, using the etches for original square leading boss as well as the round ones suitable for BR days.
I've also started making up the rods and with a little work was able to make up a proper forked join with 3 laminations, using the etches for original square leading boss as well as the round ones suitable for BR days.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
A good improvement on the original I think. The underside of the cab has been populated with Ragstone injectors and associated pipework.
The motion is an all nations mixture of Ragstone, scratch built and spares box. Getting all the dimensions and clearances right was a little challenging. The driving crankpins are 8BA studding, screwed into the plastic bushes with a retaining nut on the rear. Threaded brass tube is then screwed on to the crankpin and tightened against the wheel. The threaded return crank can then be wound against this tube without putting any load on the crankpin/wheel interface. I also had to resolder the sandpipes and replace the cylinder drain pipes. So here we are ready for some paint.
The motion is an all nations mixture of Ragstone, scratch built and spares box. Getting all the dimensions and clearances right was a little challenging. The driving crankpins are 8BA studding, screwed into the plastic bushes with a retaining nut on the rear. Threaded brass tube is then screwed on to the crankpin and tightened against the wheel. The threaded return crank can then be wound against this tube without putting any load on the crankpin/wheel interface. I also had to resolder the sandpipes and replace the cylinder drain pipes. So here we are ready for some paint.
tomstaf
Western Thunderer
Hi Dibatag,
You've done something (I think) that I was considering doing; soldering onto an already painted model. I would imagine you just dabbed the iron on to the stripped back area very quickly to make the joint. Did that mean the surrounding painted area was completely unaffected?
Cheers
Tom
You've done something (I think) that I was considering doing; soldering onto an already painted model. I would imagine you just dabbed the iron on to the stripped back area very quickly to make the joint. Did that mean the surrounding painted area was completely unaffected?
Cheers
Tom
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Tony said
The paint on this model seems pretty robust...
I'll second that statement - having just spent two days - on & off, scraping the painted sides and ends off of a Bachmann 'factory finish' green 121, having failed miserably with the full gambit of so-called paint 'strippers'. Reason - the need to fit the 'refurbed' window frames and therefore not being able to match up the paint, the original looked a few shades too dark. Pictures on my thread later today.
cheers
Mike
The paint on this model seems pretty robust...
I'll second that statement - having just spent two days - on & off, scraping the painted sides and ends off of a Bachmann 'factory finish' green 121, having failed miserably with the full gambit of so-called paint 'strippers'. Reason - the need to fit the 'refurbed' window frames and therefore not being able to match up the paint, the original looked a few shades too dark. Pictures on my thread later today.
cheers
Mike
DJH 9F
dibateg
Western Thunderer
And another 9F in Area 51, I am on the 3 DJH 9Fs. There has been some criticism of DJH kits, at one time they were state of the art, and maybe they are lagging behind in the technology stales. For me, generally they go together well, and I've always found the customer support from DJH excellent. The early 7mm kits such as the Fairburn are weak compared with the later ones, I wonder if they were a toe in the water to test the 7mm market at the time.
I'm aware of some of the minor pitfalls with the 9F after chatting to other builders, so I'll tackle them as I get to 'em..
I decided to start with the tenders, and so far the etches fit together with no problem - it would be nice to have twist tabs ( MOK style ) though! The first mod is to slot the tender chassis centre axle to allow a floating bearing, the original design is for an oversize bearing, but I don't like the thought of the axle windmilling around. I've also drilled the box re-enforcing etchings, I don't like sealed boxes.
I'm aware of some of the minor pitfalls with the 9F after chatting to other builders, so I'll tackle them as I get to 'em..
I decided to start with the tenders, and so far the etches fit together with no problem - it would be nice to have twist tabs ( MOK style ) though! The first mod is to slot the tender chassis centre axle to allow a floating bearing, the original design is for an oversize bearing, but I don't like the thought of the axle windmilling around. I've also drilled the box re-enforcing etchings, I don't like sealed boxes.
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony
I've made one of the DJH 9Fs. It was as Evening Star (yawn!) And reworked the chassis of another. I don't remember any horror stories. The cab was a bit awkward to fold up, and the firebox was a bit reluctant to mate with the spectacle plate (although that might have been my cack-handedness.)
The chassis was a bit narrow, presumably to allow for end float that is not really required, and the brake gear a bit flat-packy 2D. But really I remember it going together well. I'm sure the new MOK kit will be superior but a lot more expensive. It would be interesting to compare the cost of a DJH kit plus all the castings you are going to buy to update it vs. cost of MOK kit.
I look forward to watching you tackle all the plumbing but at least it will be an easy paint job. Everything is black I am told.
Nick
I've made one of the DJH 9Fs. It was as Evening Star (yawn!) And reworked the chassis of another. I don't remember any horror stories. The cab was a bit awkward to fold up, and the firebox was a bit reluctant to mate with the spectacle plate (although that might have been my cack-handedness.)
The chassis was a bit narrow, presumably to allow for end float that is not really required, and the brake gear a bit flat-packy 2D. But really I remember it going together well. I'm sure the new MOK kit will be superior but a lot more expensive. It would be interesting to compare the cost of a DJH kit plus all the castings you are going to buy to update it vs. cost of MOK kit.
I look forward to watching you tackle all the plumbing but at least it will be an easy paint job. Everything is black I am told.
Nick
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I did one a few years ago when they first came out, again I don't recall any significant issues with them. The chassis is the correct scale width, 9fs, Brits (and probably Clans) all had narrow frames but with outside hornblocks, the kit doesn't do the horn blocks but I used Martin Finney ones, put in the wrong way round and they look ok.
They make a very nice model I still have another one to do at some point.
Richard
They make a very nice model I still have another one to do at some point.
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Richard, correct, frame width is much narrow than traditional frames, this is one of the concepts the BR board carried over from the Bullied Pacifics, however, the hornblocks are not truly outside, they're both inside and outside, the hornblock sits right in the middle of the frame.
BR Bullied BoB
BR Britannia
Copyright unknown but crop from original for indication purposes.
Both of these show a welded arch to which the brass guides are fitted, on the 9F it's slightly different in that there is a very thin traditional hornguided bolted to the outside, but also a thin one on the inside with the guides sitting mid frame.
A view between wheel and frame, wheel to the left.
Interior view showing internal hornguide (circled), interestingly, that does not look like the axle running across the loco, it's dia looks too large, the flared ends and what look like sealed ends are all indications of a canon box to which roller bearings are fitted, I don't think 9F's had roller bearings?
Britannia canon box with roller bearings...an evolution from the last BR built black fives I believe
Copyright unknown but crop from original for indication purposes.
I will have to check this and get better photos next time I'm at York NRM.
Anyway, from the outside this is what you see and yes, visually it appears to only have outside hornguides but we know this is technically not so
Despite the boiler being high and there being plenty of free space above the frames the BR chassis design with its long flat cross members and distinctive triangular lightening holes means that almost nothing of the inside bearings is seen.
Rear intermediate axle bearing circled, to the upper left is the fire box throat plate support bracket.
Of course rule #1 applies in how much you model or what ever your comfortable with
I have a Seven models Crosti 9F (to be built in Ex Crosti format) to build in the near future, it'll be interesting to see how that muscles up and what castings will be required. One thing the DJH models do win on is the lower firebox shape at the front, there's a distinctive kick in the sheeting around the front lower mud hole door, not often present on other kits....Seven models included....one area I already know will require reworking on the 9F and Brit I have.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks guys, so numbers for those interested, 92204 ( 1G tender ) and 92031 and 92069, both Annesley with 1F tenders.
I remember examining Evening Star at first a while back and being intrigued by the distance between the back of wheels and the frames.
The MOK kit would be nice, but I already have these kits to do. There is also the cost and time to consider.
Regards
Tony
I remember examining Evening Star at first a while back and being intrigued by the distance between the back of wheels and the frames.
The MOK kit would be nice, but I already have these kits to do. There is also the cost and time to consider.
Regards
Tony
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
BR 9F frames and hornguides - the reason for the arrangement on these engines (and Brits) is given as "to ensure that loading of frames through springs and boxes is vertical" (my words... such an arrangement ensures no twist in the spring gear and no side forces on frames / boxes when static). As to why this arrangement was not included in the design of the other BR standards.... no idea why.
Brass in the boxes? think not as the metal is too soft / and can split. More likely to be managanese bronze as used by Swindon for many years.
Brass in the boxes? think not as the metal is too soft / and can split. More likely to be managanese bronze as used by Swindon for many years.