simond
Western Thunderer
I’m rather pleased with this
The buffer stocks have been seen before, I’ve also done wagon plates before, so they were simply a repeat.
The corner plates are only 0.25 thick with the rivet heads formed in them. The springs may be a little too high to allow the axleboxes to float, they are sprung, so I may have to adjust & re-do them.
Per the previous post I’ve printed the nuts and the straps that hold the buffer planks to the frames - these will also do some other fixing detail on the solebars. They’re utterly tiny! Very small & fiddly and I’ve printed quite a few more than I’ll need. I suspect there may be some naughty words, as it’s a job that wants concentration, peace, quiet & a clear head.
Probably not one for the end of a working day!
The buffer stocks have been seen before, I’ve also done wagon plates before, so they were simply a repeat.
The corner plates are only 0.25 thick with the rivet heads formed in them. The springs may be a little too high to allow the axleboxes to float, they are sprung, so I may have to adjust & re-do them.
Per the previous post I’ve printed the nuts and the straps that hold the buffer planks to the frames - these will also do some other fixing detail on the solebars. They’re utterly tiny! Very small & fiddly and I’ve printed quite a few more than I’ll need. I suspect there may be some naughty words, as it’s a job that wants concentration, peace, quiet & a clear head.
Probably not one for the end of a working day!
simond
Western Thunderer
Nick, thanks.
I pondered over whether they were domed heads - I know you can’t rivet wood - of coach bolts, or the nut end, and concluded from the not very detailed photos available that they were domed. As my old chemistry master used to say in a broad lancashire accent, “eeeh, lad, fifty fifty, and yuh allus gettit wrung!”
yes, easy to do hex or square. I suppose it’s obvious that the dome should be on the inside.
it’s a quick and easy print, indeed, whilst it was a bit fiddly supporting the bits, I was delighted at how well it printed. The nuts and bolt-ends in the first picture in #722 are 1.2 AF, and less than a millimetre high, and I should have printed the “stalk” a little bigger for handling purposes.
the North British axleguards are Ambis from Hobby Holidays. They work, but they could be rather better, as the sliding part was etched with a fold on the wrong side, and the guitar-string wire falls off, which required some remedial work. Three of them are now fine, and one is sticking…. The other wagon not yet modified. I’m part way through doing an etch for myself, but it’s only when you sit down to do it that you realise how much work is involved.
I’m quite taken with the multimedia aspect myself, and John Duffy’s laser-cut ply is nice to work with. Not looking forward to the painting though.
Atb
Simon
I pondered over whether they were domed heads - I know you can’t rivet wood - of coach bolts, or the nut end, and concluded from the not very detailed photos available that they were domed. As my old chemistry master used to say in a broad lancashire accent, “eeeh, lad, fifty fifty, and yuh allus gettit wrung!”
yes, easy to do hex or square. I suppose it’s obvious that the dome should be on the inside.
it’s a quick and easy print, indeed, whilst it was a bit fiddly supporting the bits, I was delighted at how well it printed. The nuts and bolt-ends in the first picture in #722 are 1.2 AF, and less than a millimetre high, and I should have printed the “stalk” a little bigger for handling purposes.
the North British axleguards are Ambis from Hobby Holidays. They work, but they could be rather better, as the sliding part was etched with a fold on the wrong side, and the guitar-string wire falls off, which required some remedial work. Three of them are now fine, and one is sticking…. The other wagon not yet modified. I’m part way through doing an etch for myself, but it’s only when you sit down to do it that you realise how much work is involved.
I’m quite taken with the multimedia aspect myself, and John Duffy’s laser-cut ply is nice to work with. Not looking forward to the painting though.
Atb
Simon
magmouse
Active Member
Thanks, Simon. As far as I know the nuts were always on the outside, presumably to reduce the likelihood of damage to the threads and make disassembly easier for replacing planks, etc. There is bound to be some exception somewhere, though!
Thanks for the info on the Ambis axle guards - I have a set of those but haven't attempted to use them yet, so it's useful to hear your experiences.
From the photo, you have bearings that are hollow all the way through, so you see the ends of the axles. Is that how they come, or did you modify them?
Nick.
Thanks for the info on the Ambis axle guards - I have a set of those but haven't attempted to use them yet, so it's useful to hear your experiences.
From the photo, you have bearings that are hollow all the way through, so you see the ends of the axles. Is that how they come, or did you modify them?
Nick.
simond
Western Thunderer
As promised
Ambis axleguard as originally modified. The lug pointing towards the camera on the right hand axlebox was trimmed back. I’m not at all clear how it was supposed to go, as it would not pass through the slot inboard of the axleguard, though it looked like it probably should. I think the fold line was etched on the wrong side, anyway, but maybe I didn’t RTBM well enough. And the spring wire (11 thou guitar string, probably a heavy E or a B) slid off the pedestal, and then the suspension doesn’t. When it does, they ride very smoothly. I am tending more and more towards fitting suspension to my rolling stock.
I cut the lug off and soldered a loop of 0.45 NS wire on. This makes it a highly irritating job to thread the springs but they are then trapped, and so are the wheels. They can be extracted of course. You can just see the loop and the spring wire through the window on the right.
The spring wire is held by a touch of solder. I need to check the ride height, because at present the springs & axleboxes touch, so the suspension doesn’t (again) but I think they're sitting about a millimetre low, and that might just give enough clearance for it all to work.
I found, entirely by accident, a couple of photos on the HMRS website, one of which provides some insight into the bolster beam, which is not a whacking big chunk of timber, but a timber-clad compound girder. I think that might require more 3DP and coffee stirrers…
Ambis axleguard as originally modified. The lug pointing towards the camera on the right hand axlebox was trimmed back. I’m not at all clear how it was supposed to go, as it would not pass through the slot inboard of the axleguard, though it looked like it probably should. I think the fold line was etched on the wrong side, anyway, but maybe I didn’t RTBM well enough. And the spring wire (11 thou guitar string, probably a heavy E or a B) slid off the pedestal, and then the suspension doesn’t. When it does, they ride very smoothly. I am tending more and more towards fitting suspension to my rolling stock.
I cut the lug off and soldered a loop of 0.45 NS wire on. This makes it a highly irritating job to thread the springs but they are then trapped, and so are the wheels. They can be extracted of course. You can just see the loop and the spring wire through the window on the right.
The spring wire is held by a touch of solder. I need to check the ride height, because at present the springs & axleboxes touch, so the suspension doesn’t (again) but I think they're sitting about a millimetre low, and that might just give enough clearance for it all to work.
I found, entirely by accident, a couple of photos on the HMRS website, one of which provides some insight into the bolster beam, which is not a whacking big chunk of timber, but a timber-clad compound girder. I think that might require more 3DP and coffee stirrers…
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JimG
Western Thunderer
Simon,
Are these just nuts stuck on the end of vertical supports? In the past I've used the CNC machine to cut nuts and bolts heads from styrene which has worked quite well but I'd maybe like to try a bit of 3D printing to make them.
Jim.
Brian McKenzie
Western Thunderer
I'm thinking the bolts may have mirrored correctly - but without any nuts. Were the nuts also selected for that action - or - 'merged' or 'combined' with the bolts before mirroring?
-Brian McK.
simond
Western Thunderer
Brian,
no, I don't think so. The nut with washer, and bolt end, has a "stalk" which would be the shank of the bolt.
I imported one part, and cloned it to do one end of one buffer beam and then mirrored it to the other end, and then mirrored both to the other side. It appears to have translated rather than mirrored, and I don't know why. It doesn't matter, of course, but it is a little weird. Particularly as it is correct on one diagonal and inerted on the other. I think it's an oops in the program.
BTW if ayone thinks I got the corner plate nuts wrong, please shout before I print them!
ta
Simon
no, I don't think so. The nut with washer, and bolt end, has a "stalk" which would be the shank of the bolt.
I imported one part, and cloned it to do one end of one buffer beam and then mirrored it to the other end, and then mirrored both to the other side. It appears to have translated rather than mirrored, and I don't know why. It doesn't matter, of course, but it is a little weird. Particularly as it is correct on one diagonal and inerted on the other. I think it's an oops in the program.
BTW if ayone thinks I got the corner plate nuts wrong, please shout before I print them!
ta
Simon
magmouse
Active Member
Only that they are often seen neatly aligned with the edges all vertical and horizontal. If you have photographic evidence they are higgledy piggledy on your prototype, then obviously go with that.
Nick.
JimG
Western Thunderer
Simon,
I've read the same about flats on nuts on rolling stock - that they were lined up to be square, with square nuts, and with flats in line for hex nuts - a bit like cabinet makers getting their screw slots in line.
Jim.
michael080
Western Thunderer
All slots of all screws need to have the same orientation was very common until Philips screws were invented. Probably the same spirit of folks doing that work.
Michael
Michael