SimonD’s workbench

simond

Western Thunderer
Apparently small panniers do haul decently big trains….


Sorry it’s a Facebook link - I don’t have an account but could watch it and smile :)
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Apparently small panniers do haul decently big trains….


Sorry it’s a Facebook link - I don’t have an account but could watch it and smile :)

Just the 4 MK1s? Think we know another one that can pull more than that... :))
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I think this idea had legs but I haven’t quite got there yet

image.jpg

The 3DP frame is simply a template. The window bars are black cotton. Unfortunately the superglue balled up and formed little lumps at the joins rather than wetting the cotton strands nicely

I shall experiment further

image.jpg

So close but no cigar!

Maybe using PVA?
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
I think this idea had legs but I haven’t quite got there yet

View attachment 234314

The 3DP frame is simply a template. The window bars are black cotton. Unfortunately the superglue balled up and formed little lumps at the joins rather than wetting the cotton strands nicely

I shall experiment further

View attachment 234315

So close but no cigar!

Maybe using PVA?

Are you thinking soaking the whole mesh in watered down PVA?
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
Simon.
The question has to be asked - which black cotton? There are apparently lots of options. e.g. button thread may be, or contain, polyester which may affect the result. Try other brands/qualities perhaps? Some threads are waxed.
Dave
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Thanks guys,

I should have perhaps included the mandatory halfpenny, thruppeny bit or sixpence, but I’ve never got the right money.

ruler for scale, along with Jim & Bert.

image.jpg

I‘ll try to find some genuine untampered-with pure cotton, which cyano really likes (to the extent that self-ignition is possible, if there’s enough glue) and have another go. Watered down PVA might work with the thread I have.

I could try Rob’s suggestion, the 3DP will stand soldering temperatures, but the wire will expand, which might mess up the result.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Copper wire and solder it?

Or maybe about 0.3mm Nickel Silver? I've certainly managed to do window bars for a loco with a bunker before now in copper wire (in a smaller scale). In 4mm you can get away with scribing this sort of thing on secondary glazing or the reverse of the the glazing proper, of course.

Adam
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Definitely, printing, no bother. Getting it off the support, on the other hand…

it’ll be too brittle, I think.

Not knowing anything about printing... Is there a flexible material you can print in? Something that could be persuaded to peel off the plate??
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Not knowing anything about printing... Is there a flexible material you can print in? Something that could be persuaded to peel off the plate??
Probably, but the few resins I’ve tried are brittle.

actually, that does raise a suggestion, I wonder if the 0.2 nozzles on the Bambu FDM printer at work might do it.

I think the bars will end up curved on one side and flat on the other, but curved side to the glass might look ok….

thanks!
S
 

magmouse

Western Thunderer
That could work - print a frame to attach the bars to the inside of the body, which will also keep the bars straight and taught.

I'm interested to see how well this works -

Nick.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
That could work - print a frame to attach the bars to the inside of the body, which will also keep the bars straight and taught.

I'm interested to see how well this works -

Nick.
You and me both!

btw, progress made on etches yesterday. Mojo has been lacking after last attempt, but this seems to be progressing…

(Health Warning - DO NOT HOLD YOUR BREATH)

:)
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
His Simon

I’m wondering whether this might work as it seems to avoid the globule-ness of superglue:

IMG_2662.jpegIt’s fine nozzle applicator dispenses minimal amounts of glue when it makes contact with the surface of the material.

The only drawback is……… it sticks 3D resin pieces …….for which I use it specifically for gluing said printed resin pieces (like the balustrade in my recent post) to say styrene. I don’t own a printer or have any knowledge of resin or even how I’d go about making anything in the material, as I say, it’s just for adhering the odd part I buy from retailers.

Perhaps it might work in your case if, for instance, you brush a thin lining of say olive oil over the ‘mould’ you’ve made before inserting the cotton or whatever, to stop the glue from sticking the work to the mould?

Just a thought.

Jon
 

smgee

Active Member
Thanks guys,

I should have perhaps included the mandatory halfpenny, thruppeny bit or sixpence, but I’ve never got the right money.

ruler for scale, along with Jim & Bert.

View attachment 234339

I‘ll try to find some genuine untampered-with pure cotton, which cyano really likes (to the extent that self-ignition is possible, if there’s enough glue) and have another go. Watered down PVA might work with the thread I have.

I could try Rob’s suggestion, the 3DP will stand soldering temperatures, but the wire will expand, which might mess up the result.

Simon

I recommend getting some low-viscosity cyano. Can't guarantee it'll work with cotton, but the silk thread I was using (see post 14 here) soaked it up like a sponge. Obviously there are various brands, but I was using this stuff:

IMG_4970.jpeg

The silk cord is available in a range of thicknesses and colours, e.g. Griffin Silk Thread UK | The Curious Gem
 
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