Dog Star
Western Thunderer
With you working in 1/64th and Mickoo working at 1/43rd... are the waste bins sized to suit the scale?
Last edited:
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
I just tipped out the basket and counted thirty-six bodies.
Jim.
Scrap yard diorama?
simond
Western Thunderer
Curiously, the other body was rather better when I stripped the supports off. Still obviously not perfect, particularly where the supports were on the end, but almost no ripples at all. It must be close to the limits, as they’re the same CAD with the same supports, simply cloned and printed at the same time.
I'm trying a completely different orientation tonight. Its flatter, so it’ll take much less time, but I don’t care, it’ll be done when I get up in the morning.
more news tomorrow or Friday!
I'm trying a completely different orientation tonight. Its flatter, so it’ll take much less time, but I don’t care, it’ll be done when I get up in the morning.
more news tomorrow or Friday!
simond
Western Thunderer
Wagon printed “almost well” in horizontal format, except for “strings” or “ribbons” which seem to trail from the body edge. Additionally, it seems to have partially failed on the sidewalls at floor-top height, possible due to the sudden change in section.
I’ve had white surface deposits on models before, which I now understand to be the results of the strings being washed, sticking to the model and then being cured, so I’ve learned something, but I don’t understand what causes the strings in the first place.
I’d note that even with a tooth brush, they seem quite well attached!
It’s a shame, because otherwise…
I’ve had white surface deposits on models before, which I now understand to be the results of the strings being washed, sticking to the model and then being cured, so I’ve learned something, but I don’t understand what causes the strings in the first place.
I’d note that even with a tooth brush, they seem quite well attached!
It’s a shame, because otherwise…
simond
Western Thunderer
Pleasant morning at the Canterbury Model Railway club show, met a couple of old regulars, enjoyed Cessy en Bois with much less crowd than Uckfield, Met Dawn & saw @ModelRailwayQuest B/W model of Brief Encounter and generally enjoyed myself.
Bought myself a Dapol conflat & Pickford container for impending birthday with MrsD’s approval, found the source of resin moulded dry stone walls I had been searching for for years (DOW Scenics www.debrisofwar.com - doesn’t appear on the website but 28mm high), some 2mm brass rod to make loco pickups and lunch at the Jackdaw on the way home too
One of the benefits of 3DP is you can arrange the parts on a raft for printing, in such a way that they’re easy to paint. Loco shed gutters - 45 x 70mm…
And now I’m looking at the next iterations of print orientations for the N6 coal wagon. Tried one very upright and one at a shallower angle but tilted in two planes
Internal rivets good on both,
The slot at the bottom of the doors is still an issue on the shallow print, there’s some distortion and that ribbon-like “flash”, otherwise pretty good. I might just close the gap up in the hope that the issue goes away - realistically I don’t think it’ll show so maybe an unnecessary detail. In both cases, I took a greater risk of print failure by reducing the number / density of supports, which helps, sort-of.
The other one looks great all round, but the end nearest the build plate is distorted again
I guess cut my losses and close up the door gap, but I’m going to have to follow @Richard Gawler suggestion and create a sacrificial edge to avoid this
It’s frustrating…
On the bright side, Modelu’s 6 month loyalty bonus gave me a few platform staff, which (who?) printed perfectly
Hopefully they’ll look the part of 1930’s staff once I get a coat of paint on them.
Atb
Simon
Bought myself a Dapol conflat & Pickford container for impending birthday with MrsD’s approval, found the source of resin moulded dry stone walls I had been searching for for years (DOW Scenics www.debrisofwar.com - doesn’t appear on the website but 28mm high), some 2mm brass rod to make loco pickups and lunch at the Jackdaw on the way home too
One of the benefits of 3DP is you can arrange the parts on a raft for printing, in such a way that they’re easy to paint. Loco shed gutters - 45 x 70mm…
And now I’m looking at the next iterations of print orientations for the N6 coal wagon. Tried one very upright and one at a shallower angle but tilted in two planes
Internal rivets good on both,
The slot at the bottom of the doors is still an issue on the shallow print, there’s some distortion and that ribbon-like “flash”, otherwise pretty good. I might just close the gap up in the hope that the issue goes away - realistically I don’t think it’ll show so maybe an unnecessary detail. In both cases, I took a greater risk of print failure by reducing the number / density of supports, which helps, sort-of.
The other one looks great all round, but the end nearest the build plate is distorted again
I guess cut my losses and close up the door gap, but I’m going to have to follow @Richard Gawler suggestion and create a sacrificial edge to avoid this
It’s frustrating…
On the bright side, Modelu’s 6 month loyalty bonus gave me a few platform staff, which (who?) printed perfectly
Hopefully they’ll look the part of 1930’s staff once I get a coat of paint on them.
Atb
Simon
Last edited:
timbowales
Western Thunderer
Simon, regarding the “wonky” loco coal wagon prints, how long into their lives are you intending to finish these?
It might be to your advantage if they are going to be modelled when late in their lives?
Just a thought,
Tim T
It might be to your advantage if they are going to be modelled when late in their lives?
Just a thought,
Tim T
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tim,
nice idea, and attractive, when you’ve printed 7 of the damn things, but it’s a bit of a cop-out in my view.
Sure, when they’ve seen some service, they’ll look a bit battered, and certainly rusty internally, but I don’t think it’s reasonable to try to pass off a defective model as an accurate portrayal of a defective prototype - unless you’re absurdly lucky and they are both defective in precisely the same way!
Whist it is very frustrating to not be making progress as I would wish, I suspect I’m learning, and hopefully the efforts will pay off eventually.
A chap on RMW had, by chance, done the same wagon, also in 7mm, by 3DP, he had done his in two halves, which solves a multitude of issues, but of course, leaves a join line to be dealt with.
Richard’s sacrificial strip, and printing in parts, remain options. It would just be better if I could find a way of doing it that doesn’t require “post processing”.
The least-bad of the bodies I’ve printed would certainly pass the “two coach lengths away” test, but I’d like to do better!
cheers
Simon
nice idea, and attractive, when you’ve printed 7 of the damn things, but it’s a bit of a cop-out in my view.
Sure, when they’ve seen some service, they’ll look a bit battered, and certainly rusty internally, but I don’t think it’s reasonable to try to pass off a defective model as an accurate portrayal of a defective prototype - unless you’re absurdly lucky and they are both defective in precisely the same way!
Whist it is very frustrating to not be making progress as I would wish, I suspect I’m learning, and hopefully the efforts will pay off eventually.
A chap on RMW had, by chance, done the same wagon, also in 7mm, by 3DP, he had done his in two halves, which solves a multitude of issues, but of course, leaves a join line to be dealt with.
Richard’s sacrificial strip, and printing in parts, remain options. It would just be better if I could find a way of doing it that doesn’t require “post processing”.
The least-bad of the bodies I’ve printed would certainly pass the “two coach lengths away” test, but I’d like to do better!
cheers
Simon
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
This is where a lump of mild steel and a mallet helped me with the bunker on my MW class F. Some input is to be expected to add defects, maybe a cigarette lighter for a print?
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Simon,
I would still be tempted to thicken up the angle iron flange a tad, you won't notice it on the finished model.
Have you got any holes in the floor to break the suction?
It is incredibly frustrating when you get a print so close but so far. Nature of the beast but still
I would still be tempted to thicken up the angle iron flange a tad, you won't notice it on the finished model.
Have you got any holes in the floor to break the suction?
It is incredibly frustrating when you get a print so close but so far. Nature of the beast but still
adrian
Flying Squad
You appear to be generating a good selection of parts for a scrap yard diorama!!The other one looks great all round, but the end nearest the build plate is distorted again
simond
Western Thunderer
Sad but true.
I think today’s attempt will be a shallow angle with tilt in two planes, and a sacrificial strip or two. I don’t want the post processing but it’ll be cheaper in time & resin than making more “nearly but not quite” models that go in the heap.
Fundamentally, some of the bodies could be reworked, watching what folks on here do to improve RTR, the minor discrepancies & distortion on the ends would be no issue to some. I think I’ll go look at the guy on RMW and his approach too, in case the sacrificial strips don’t work.
Canterbury show yielded some 2mm brass rod, so I can make pickups for Chris’ pannier, I’ve got over 2m of gutter to fit to the loco shed, Tony’s Manor needs the axleboxes modifying, and the drawings finishing for the rods, and I need to get my finger out on the Garratt valve gear & the Hymek bogies. The weather is perfect for modelling, but Sunday morning inertia has not yet evaporated…
I think today’s attempt will be a shallow angle with tilt in two planes, and a sacrificial strip or two. I don’t want the post processing but it’ll be cheaper in time & resin than making more “nearly but not quite” models that go in the heap.
Fundamentally, some of the bodies could be reworked, watching what folks on here do to improve RTR, the minor discrepancies & distortion on the ends would be no issue to some. I think I’ll go look at the guy on RMW and his approach too, in case the sacrificial strips don’t work.
Canterbury show yielded some 2mm brass rod, so I can make pickups for Chris’ pannier, I’ve got over 2m of gutter to fit to the loco shed, Tony’s Manor needs the axleboxes modifying, and the drawings finishing for the rods, and I need to get my finger out on the Garratt valve gear & the Hymek bogies. The weather is perfect for modelling, but Sunday morning inertia has not yet evaporated…
michael080
Western Thunderer
Simon,
you could taper the flanges a little bit. I assume the distortion at the flanges comes from swelling of the cured resin. A broader base of the flanges cold reduce the effect without being too visible.
Michael
you could taper the flanges a little bit. I assume the distortion at the flanges comes from swelling of the cured resin. A broader base of the flanges cold reduce the effect without being too visible.
Michael
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Michael, already done!
the key issue in this photo is the distortion of the edge above the solebar, this coincides with the location of the supports. I suspect the wobbles in the solebar flange are also generated by the supports, and this is accentuated by the supports slowing the resin draining away after each layer is printed. I note that the other side of the wagonnis pretty much perfect.
The resin draining is probably made worse by the temperature, I checked yesterday, and the utility room is 19C, though it probably drops during the night. I think the advice is to get up to mid twenties, so I’ll look for a small terrarium heater and install that in the printer hood, but that won’t be today, of course. I think a thin web, right on the edge, will be easy to clean and if I can design it so, will not make the resin flow worse. I’ll crank up the CAD after brekkie…
cheers
Simon
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Simon,
That bottom edge (and the solebar) to me, is crying out for lots of fine supports (in addition to your existing medium/heavy supports) to give it an edge to start printing from.
If you look closely, the bottom edge is ok just where the support is (was), the unsupported section doesn't print in the right place, or rather it prints and then is pulled/floats away when the build plate lifts until it gradually builds across from the top of the solebar. The bits that float away may eventually get trapped between the plate and the FEP unless you frequetly drain and filter your resin. - not good.
Have fun.
Rob
That bottom edge (and the solebar) to me, is crying out for lots of fine supports (in addition to your existing medium/heavy supports) to give it an edge to start printing from.
If you look closely, the bottom edge is ok just where the support is (was), the unsupported section doesn't print in the right place, or rather it prints and then is pulled/floats away when the build plate lifts until it gradually builds across from the top of the solebar. The bits that float away may eventually get trapped between the plate and the FEP unless you frequetly drain and filter your resin. - not good.
Have fun.
Rob
simond
Western Thunderer
Thanks Rob,
it seems like a two-edged sword, if you put more supports, it prevents free egress of the resin and it ends up all fluffy & horrid, and if you don’t put enough, you end up with humps and hollows.
I'm very keen on not wrecking my FEP (and screen!) so I filter my resin every print!
I’ve ordered a 10W reptile heater. Inside the print hood, I think that’ll do a pretty good job of warming it.
I‘ll have a go at designing a sacrificial edge; do I try it today, or wait ‘til the heater arrives.…?
I think I’ve done all the DXFs for the Hymek and Manor, haven’t touched the Garratt, but I think it’s time for glue, paint and milling machines…
it seems like a two-edged sword, if you put more supports, it prevents free egress of the resin and it ends up all fluffy & horrid, and if you don’t put enough, you end up with humps and hollows.
I'm very keen on not wrecking my FEP (and screen!) so I filter my resin every print!
I’ve ordered a 10W reptile heater. Inside the print hood, I think that’ll do a pretty good job of warming it.
I‘ll have a go at designing a sacrificial edge; do I try it today, or wait ‘til the heater arrives.…?
I think I’ve done all the DXFs for the Hymek and Manor, haven’t touched the Garratt, but I think it’s time for glue, paint and milling machines…
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Possibly the same with the angle irons. The good end is printing up from the main body. The wavy end is starting in mid air...
Rob R
Western Thunderer
Simon,
The latest iteration of my GNR 4 plank.
OK, it's smaller and hasn't got a floor but this is now printing fairly reliably now.
If I was doing your iron open (in 1/64) with the top angle iron, I would take the floor out and try printing it upside down, possibly with a small sacrificial ridge around the top which could easily be removed by rubbing on some sandpaper flat on the workbench.
Horses for courses and may not work for your printer/resin set up.
Have you got a bigger bin yet?
Rob
The latest iteration of my GNR 4 plank.
OK, it's smaller and hasn't got a floor but this is now printing fairly reliably now.
If I was doing your iron open (in 1/64) with the top angle iron, I would take the floor out and try printing it upside down, possibly with a small sacrificial ridge around the top which could easily be removed by rubbing on some sandpaper flat on the workbench.
Horses for courses and may not work for your printer/resin set up.
Have you got a bigger bin yet?
Rob