7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Now fixed up and back on it's wheels, with a little tidying remaining:-

View attachment 14122

And... straight on to the next project, a David Andrews 2P kit , which is going together very nicely:-
View attachment 14123

That looks pretty similar to David's SECR E1 kit (as might be expected I guess). But I think your kit is probably a later design than the E1, so seems rather more 'evolved'. I also note you've gone for springing rather than compensation and I'm guessing no inside motion in this one?

Looks good too - so it'll be interesting to see where the similarities with the E1 are.

Steph
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,
When I'm flicking through books looking for pics I often mistake the E1 for a 2p! They do seem very similar. Yes, I decided to spring, so I will be just putting the kit dummy inside motion in this time.
Regards
Tony
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I'm hitting some similar issues as Mike Baker did in the Guild Gazette. There seems to be some slight discrepancy between body and chassis. Mike relocated the fixing points, but trimming about 2mm off the rear off the chassis and positioning it back by that amount resolves a few minor issues: a:The front fixing holes line up. b:There is more room for the front guard irons c:The drivers are in a more balanced position between the splashers. Ah well, time will tell if I am right or wrong. Maybe I should have located some drawings first, as it is an engine I am not too familiar with...but - I'm enjoying the build.

Anyway plenty of bits needed annealing to form the cab and splashers. So apart from nearly setting fire to myself when the mini torch blew back, here is progress so far:-

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dibateg

Western Thunderer
So here's the dilemma, the firebox fits nicely between the splashers, with the cut out for the sand filler neatly over the hole in the running plate. The cab sits perfectly over the cutout for the rear drivers, but the lower part of the cab is too short and leaves a gap where the upturn in the running plate is. Easy enough to resolve, but in the absence of a drawing can I find a broadside shot of a 2P in the millions of magazines in the cupboard? No I can't...
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Dikitriki

Flying Squad
My 2P from the same angle.

P1010698a.jpg

I would suggest that the cab is located pretty much in the right place in Tony's picture, and that there is some remedial work needed under the cab. I'm surprised at this actually, that's not like David Andrews.

Richard
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard, I did a quick measure up, if I leave the cab in the position it is in my pic the distance from footplate turn down to the rear edge of the side sheet is pretty well the same as yours - 16.5mm. So there it will stay!

Regards
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Yes - fortnately, there is an etch which include 3 different rivet patterns for the cab side. I can chop those up to make up a larger piece and it should cover the gap.
 

Simon

Flying Squad
The 8F had had it's first pass with the airbrush, and is now awaiting further detailing from a weathering point of view.
View attachment 14431

I particularly like your 2P, one of my favourite locos and your work (on the firebox especially) looks very good indeed.

One day I'll do 40634 in unlined black as it was at Green Park...

Handsome engines.

Simon
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
So now I am making progress, I wasn't happy with the join between the firebox and boiler and had to torch it apart and redo the join. The front face of the boiler was not vertical - I should have checked more thoroughly. I also had to cut the front of the smoke box out to fit the forward washout plugs. The cab is now attached and fortunately, there are 3 different beading etches in the kit. I cut and shut to make up the difference and now I am on to the other cab parts and detailing:-

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dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Rob -
the latest joy, is preparing the lubricators. These can be quite difficult to work, withthe hardness of the brass casting and the risk of the drill bursting through the sides of the outlets, or breaking. I replaced the 6 way ones in the kit with Griffin 4 way ones. I always struggle with these, but this time it went better than expected. Just for interest ( someone might want to know ) this is what I did. I left the sprue on to aid handling, then removed and cleaned up afterwards:
  • Gently file the tops of the outlets flat
  • Use a scriber to mark the centre
  • By hand start the hole with a .6mm turbo shank drill
  • Using spit to lubricate, drill with a new 0.5mm turbo shank drill, medium speed, just a little at the time. You dont want the tip of the drill to overheat, it will go blunt. I worked my way around the outlets one after the other, it took 3 or 4 circuits before they all went right through.
  • I use B&Q picture wire to form the feed pipes, it can be unwound and stretched straight in the vice. It's softer than the straight wire and doesn't fracture, but not so soft as copper, which always seems to go all over the place.
  • the wires can then be passed right through the lubricator body and soldered from the inside.
I managed to do it with out breaking the drill bit ! That's a first.

The castings retain heat of course, so the mounting plate is attached to the frames with 179 solder.

Just needs some tidying now:-

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