7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I have a rule in 7mm, if you see it and want it, buy it if you can. Its a small market and products come and go. I never thought JLTRT would finish though.. Its a pity, I've have done 5 or so kits this year from them and enjoy doing them..

I might have my end frames, someone might have some spares.. fingers crossed!
 

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
I have a rule in 7mm, if you see it and want it, buy it if you can. Its a small market and products come and go. I never thought JLTRT would finish though.. Its a pity, I've have done 5 or so kits this year from them and enjoy doing them..

I might have my end frames, someone might have some spares.. fingers crossed!

I wanted a JLTRT Class 47 and flogged some stuff at Telford last year to finance it. I've been sitting on the cash ever since waiting for the Clayton boilered variant to appear, but sadly, well, you know the rest! I've now ordered a Little Loco Company Class 22. :thumbs:


Regards

Dan
 

bogusman

Western Thunderer
I do find it sad that these models will not be available now and hope for you who model 7mm that somehow they will become available again in the future. From my own modeling scale it will be interesting if the 4mm the locomotives from David Geen will still be available in the future

Pete
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I do find it sad that these models will not be available now and hope for you who model 7mm that somehow they will become available again in the future. From my own modeling scale it will be interesting if the 4mm the locomotives from David Geen will still be available in the future

Pete

Pete,
I understood that David was retiring so their availability in 4mm was looking pretty doubtful anyway from what I can tell.
Like you, in either scale I hope they continue to be available.

Steph
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I might have located some end frames, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The generosity of fellow modellers can be remarkable.

10001 had a different hornblock lubrication system on one of the bogies at the end, so I wanted to replicate this. I chopped off the nicely moulded little boxes and made up the pipework. I also added the spring protectors. The steps were in the wrong place, so I've taken them off and put them back on again.
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The roof vent was changed from a grill to a set of louvers at the No1 end, so this is a test piece made up from plasticard.
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
Yes - I like the loco in plain black.
I do like making the JLTRT diesels, one thing I don't like though is the reliance on butt mounting some of the detail components. In my experience, these items quickly get knocked off, I'm as ham fisted as anyone, superglue is just too brittle for the task. I usually make a spigot of some sort. In this case 0.6mm wire for the bogie front steps, the wire is glued into holes drilled into the bogie frame. Once mounted up - you can't see it. You can see the hole for the lower step drilled in front of the sand box.
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
D602 is heading off for a new home on Friday - I've grown rather fond of it!
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Meanwhile - progress on 10001 bogies. Delrin chain drive - the sprocket next to the gearbox has to be cut down. Slaters plunger pick ups. There will be wiper pick ups on the driven axle. Tube soldered to middle axle bearing to stop it rotating ( thanks Nick Dunhill ) for the spring. Sitting on rusty accommodation wheels at the moment...
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
I've been pretty busy catching up with weathering and spray jobs, now that we have had a good few days. Also a trip to the York show and East Yorkshire.

There is a job I've been putting off on the roof of 10001. The No2 end changed to accommodate the Spanner train heating boiler. This meant carving off the second vent with big files and fitting the white metal cover. Also moving the riveted strip. As usual mucking around with resin creates an unholy mess. The vacuum was on standby...
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It was also time ( after cleaning the dust off ) to deploy the little used cross slid on the riveting tool. One of those tools that is little used, but great when you need it.
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And there we are, there is another vent to add, and it will all look better once painted... I hope.
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
Yes - I did Dave, copied Heather. Strips of square plastic strip glued to a sheet, then scraped down to shape..

Cheers
Tony
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
It would be nice if these builds all went perfectly, that's the impression readers might get, but there are days when things go horribly wrong. I thought it might be a good idea to get the sides attached to the roof, and when I did my Class 24 a few years ago I used the thinnest Rocket superglue. I should have remembered how uncontrollable that was. It all started off reasonably well and this thin stuff grabs quite quickly and I re-enforced that with some medium along the join. But then matching up to the cabs again, one end had splayed.... and was solid..... Then followed a tense half hour ( with colourful language ) trying to get the joint apart. I managed to break free some of the side, the boiler end was stuck fast. The only way was to attack it with a razor saw from the inside before the medium glue went off. This ended up with the saw, me and anything else I handled covered.. Anyway eventually I cut far enough through from the back to break the side free without any visible exterior damage. I cleaned up with big files and managed to salvage the tongue and groove at the radiator end and fixed in place the side with 5 minute epoxy. The rest was left free and will be fixed when I attach the No2 cab.
There endeth the nightmare.. So lessons: 1. Don't use thin superglue, it goes off too quickly 2. Screw the sides to the floor to align them when glueing the roof. I did that last time but not this... why? Who knows...
Sometimes sh*t happens, the answer is to plan a way out and don't panic.

Sharp eyed viewers will notice the side has sprung in slightly, that will line up when the cab is attached as it's not glued this end. I made up the little brackets that attach the water pick overflows to the roof, they looked a bit plain otherwise. One has pinged off during the wrestling match.
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
There's been a bit of a gap, for various reasons, one of which was getting poked in the eye hacking out brambles at the bottom of our garden. No damage fortunately, but I wasn't able to do any close up work for a few days. The dangers of gardening...
I've spent the odd hour on 10001 and she is ready for a track test at last. There has been quite a lot of extra detailing.
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The engine print arrived, but is not fitted yet and there are various parts that will be fitted after painting, including the cab handrails, which will be pinned. I've seen a few of these models with these missing!
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The good weather has taken me outside either on the bike or catching up on outside projects. I've had the odd moment to make a start on my 3rd and probably final ever JLTRT diesel - the magnificent class 40. It's shame that we probably won't see these again. There was less work to do on the body than 10001 and so progress has been pretty quick and it is almost ready for the paintshop.
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I'm using ABC power bogies and there will be some pretty hefty carving to do on the chassis moulding. The fan is mounted on an old tape drive motor of some sort. I have drawers of old stuff like that, that might come in useful one day
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dibateg

Western Thunderer
Four Horseboxes
This is an LNE Diag 5 D&S kit. I suspect it was blown up from 4mm, however, the castings are pretty tidy. The construction diagram is printed in reverse, so it has to be held up to the light to see it from the other side! The kits are a little basic and lack some detail. The underframe makes up ok, but lacks any of the rodding detail which has been scratched up. I've simplified the cranks that are hidden behind the wheels. The half diamond brake stretchers are made from scrap etch strip, the rest from scrap etch. Tidy and safety loops still to add as well as the springs.
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I'm in the process of putting the roof ( which was oversize ) on. I added some brass strip to the top of the body side as the roof fits closely to that with pretty well no overhang. I've added Griffen lamp irons, drop door bumps, interior partitions. The top door latch was representational, it's been modified. The resistance solderer has come in to it's own!
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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Looking good Tony, are all four D&S kit's? - You can never have too many horseboxes according to a friend of mine.
 
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