dibateg
Western Thunderer
Being too tight to heat the railway room, I thought I'd embark on the next tank engine for the layout. Originally produced by Wagon and Carriage in 1996,the LNER L1 2-6-4 has been through the hands of Meteor and I believe is now with Gladiator. Peter Dunne did an excellent build a few years ago and kindly supplied me with his construction photos. His original thread on RMweb lost all the pictures after a server crash.
The etch is of it's age, you end up with multiple loose parts when separating principle items from the fret.
First job was to prepare and articulate the coupling rods.
I build all my engines with working hornblocks, but they won't leave much meat in the frames, so I'm considering that path for the moment. The etched springs will be replaced, so that area of strengthening will be lost.
The etch is of it's age, you end up with multiple loose parts when separating principle items from the fret.
First job was to prepare and articulate the coupling rods.
I build all my engines with working hornblocks, but they won't leave much meat in the frames, so I'm considering that path for the moment. The etched springs will be replaced, so that area of strengthening will be lost.
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony, I like these engines and I look forward to seeing made. You do make a really good job of your builds
John
John
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thank you chaps -
I found that I still had some Four Track hornblocks in stock. They require a smaller cut out than the Slaters ones although they are not quite as refined. They won't be seen on this loco, and ther are adjustable!. The etched springs will be replaced with Ragstone ones after the hornblocks are soldered in. The frames are just placed together at the moment.
I found that I still had some Four Track hornblocks in stock. They require a smaller cut out than the Slaters ones although they are not quite as refined. They won't be seen on this loco, and ther are adjustable!. The etched springs will be replaced with Ragstone ones after the hornblocks are soldered in. The frames are just placed together at the moment.
Richard Spoors
Western Thunderer
These, or very similar hornblocks, were being sold by Invertrain. Chris has now transferred ownership to Phoenix Models, although they are not listed on their website yet.
Cheers
Richard
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard -
Getting the cylinders right, has soaked up a few hours. The covers in the kit are on the chassis etch and are 20 thou thick. Forming those to shape would be nigh on impossible, so new ones have been made up from suitably thin brass. The slots in the frames for the cylinders confused me. They don't seem to line up from each side and they are slightly too far forward. I ended up torching off one frame to reposition it by half a mill, but that didn't improve things... So I've opened up the slots and have started up making new frame and mounting spacers so that the cylinders and motion brackets will be removable.
Getting the cylinders right, has soaked up a few hours. The covers in the kit are on the chassis etch and are 20 thou thick. Forming those to shape would be nigh on impossible, so new ones have been made up from suitably thin brass. The slots in the frames for the cylinders confused me. They don't seem to line up from each side and they are slightly too far forward. I ended up torching off one frame to reposition it by half a mill, but that didn't improve things... So I've opened up the slots and have started up making new frame and mounting spacers so that the cylinders and motion brackets will be removable.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
One step forward....two back
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thank you Larry - the 4 foot arms are for Bala, which wasn't Cambrian of course. I don't know why they were different to the others. Excuse the poor quality grab shot, the signals are in the process of being installed.
I don't like areal shots but Geoff has just set the signals out ready for me to connect them. -
Ground level is better, there is still a lot to do...
There are plenty of ground signals at Trevor - they are connected now, but not comissioned yet.
I don't like areal shots but Geoff has just set the signals out ready for me to connect them. -
Ground level is better, there is still a lot to do...
There are plenty of ground signals at Trevor - they are connected now, but not comissioned yet.
Given that the cab floor is quite a bit higher it’s a shame the chassis frames were not just made the same depth right to the back. This I found helpful with the Dave Bradwell 4mm chassis as the bogie wheel cutouts needed enlarging for clearance. I do hope you don’t run into issues here of a similar nature given how little there is to start with.
Bob
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks Bob - Lets see how I get on!
I couldn't live with teh puny etched springs on the A5, so substituted Ragtsone 3'6" LNER ones. The shock absorbers should really splay out to the side more, but I couldn't face cutting all 12 off and repositioning them.
As an aside does anyone know what the inside motion on the A5 looked like?
Ragstone to the rescure with the backhead with a Stanier brake valve and LMS sanding control ( Don't tell Mr Robinson! ) . At least they add to the controls that will only be partly seen within the confines of the cab.
Talking of Ragstone, the almost weekly delivery added to the extra parts for the L1, which will also need a set of the 3'6" springs:-
I couldn't live with teh puny etched springs on the A5, so substituted Ragtsone 3'6" LNER ones. The shock absorbers should really splay out to the side more, but I couldn't face cutting all 12 off and repositioning them.
As an aside does anyone know what the inside motion on the A5 looked like?
Ragstone to the rescure with the backhead with a Stanier brake valve and LMS sanding control ( Don't tell Mr Robinson! ) . At least they add to the controls that will only be partly seen within the confines of the cab.
Talking of Ragstone, the almost weekly delivery added to the extra parts for the L1, which will also need a set of the 3'6" springs:-
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I'm not sure the L1 kit was designed to represent the contract engines. I've spent the morning making a new front platform, frame extensions ( the ones in the kit are too short ) and making up strengthening pieces. The buffer beam is also 2" less in height at 1'4". The buffer beam and the valences are the only parts from the kit.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Grinding progress with the L1. It took almost a day to get the front platform made and installed.
I then prepared the body sides. The cab beading positions for the cab dor handrails were far too inboard, they should be just inside the bodyside. The holes in the running plate for them were in completely the wrong place! Holes have been cut in the running plate for the expansion links. The cab bulkheads had to be trimmed slightly to fit between the sides.. It's just tacked together at the moment until I'm sure everything is in the right place. Sleep on it and check the next day....
The next step is to tackle the bunker - the etching is 4'9" in width, it should actually be 5'6"!
I always knew this was going to be a tricky build...
I then prepared the body sides. The cab beading positions for the cab dor handrails were far too inboard, they should be just inside the bodyside. The holes in the running plate for them were in completely the wrong place! Holes have been cut in the running plate for the expansion links. The cab bulkheads had to be trimmed slightly to fit between the sides.. It's just tacked together at the moment until I'm sure everything is in the right place. Sleep on it and check the next day....
The next step is to tackle the bunker - the etching is 4'9" in width, it should actually be 5'6"!
I always knew this was going to be a tricky build...
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Glad to see WT is back - thanks guys!
So new back and and sides for the hopper have been fabricated from 12 thou brass.
The wider bunker looks better and I've used half round beading wire at the top. Using one piece of brass for the side platform and bunker side allows the whole bunker to remain open rather than forming a sealed box. Still a few bits of tidying to do.
I think all the class had limousine doors fitted by the end of the '50s. So to create a door entrance return and form blanking plates for the cut out I use 1 x4mm 'L' section. The beading on the inside was filed off to allow the trims to fit flush. The cab floor will need modifying to accomodate the inset.
So new back and and sides for the hopper have been fabricated from 12 thou brass.
The wider bunker looks better and I've used half round beading wire at the top. Using one piece of brass for the side platform and bunker side allows the whole bunker to remain open rather than forming a sealed box. Still a few bits of tidying to do.
I think all the class had limousine doors fitted by the end of the '50s. So to create a door entrance return and form blanking plates for the cut out I use 1 x4mm 'L' section. The beading on the inside was filed off to allow the trims to fit flush. The cab floor will need modifying to accomodate the inset.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
The cab floor is too long... or too short.. It was easier to reduce the height of the rear shelf unit and that just drops down neatly in to the slot formed between the door returns and the rear bulkhead. the front of the locker unit is plain and I remember PAD added some detail to it's face. Without any prototype evidence I shall copy that.
I made four doors before I was happy, and that seems to be the story of this build, I end up remaking items.. The dooray looks much different with the door installed. I've drilled holes for the multiple cinder guards. fortunately I managed to obtain a job lot of them from Hobbyhorse before the business finished.
I made four doors before I was happy, and that seems to be the story of this build, I end up remaking items.. The dooray looks much different with the door installed. I've drilled holes for the multiple cinder guards. fortunately I managed to obtain a job lot of them from Hobbyhorse before the business finished.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Its really one step forward and three back. To form the larger diameter smoke box, the instructions suggest making up a 'tin lid ' with the front plate and a packing ring. I don't think my skills are up to making a neat lid and it slip happily on to boiler. So I used copper wire to tighten the rings on to the boiler and soldered them on, adding the front disk afterwards. I was then able to file that rounded edge. I don't like sealed boilers, so cut a larger hole in the rear disk so the a speaker or anything else can be passed in to the boiler. The rear disk doesn't need to be flush with the end section of the full boiler. Setting it in a few mil allows a good soldered joint to be created.
For the rear set of spacer rings, I measured measured measured - and scribed a line for the rear most rings position on the boiler. For the ring just inside the wrapper, I tacked that to the inside of the wrapper, so that I could accurately ( or not ) control it's potrusion of just under a mill. After tinning the outside of the rings and then clamping the smokebox in position with copper wire hoops, I attempted to use the resistance solderer to fuse the whole lot together... It seems to be in place. I had to sleep on that one to work out how to do it...
After a trial fit of the boiler, I then found that the forward part of the running plate was 2mm too long.. So off with the front platfrom ( again ) and I used the piercing saw to shorten it... I struggled with the saddle, trying to solder 6 components together and keep them square was a challenge! I still ended up with a gap at the front, that might need to be filled in as the next task is to get the boiler to sit level.....
For the rear set of spacer rings, I measured measured measured - and scribed a line for the rear most rings position on the boiler. For the ring just inside the wrapper, I tacked that to the inside of the wrapper, so that I could accurately ( or not ) control it's potrusion of just under a mill. After tinning the outside of the rings and then clamping the smokebox in position with copper wire hoops, I attempted to use the resistance solderer to fuse the whole lot together... It seems to be in place. I had to sleep on that one to work out how to do it...
After a trial fit of the boiler, I then found that the forward part of the running plate was 2mm too long.. So off with the front platfrom ( again ) and I used the piercing saw to shorten it... I struggled with the saddle, trying to solder 6 components together and keep them square was a challenge! I still ended up with a gap at the front, that might need to be filled in as the next task is to get the boiler to sit level.....
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Might be a bit late now, but this might help.
Cab rear wall.
Cad side and door openings.
I'd love an L1 for myself but I've heard this one is a chore and your comments seem to back that up.
I'm only a couple of drawings missing to work something up, just need to find the time to visit NRM again. Actually, I think we need to organize another beer and curry night out in York
Cab rear wall.
Cad side and door openings.
I'd love an L1 for myself but I've heard this one is a chore and your comments seem to back that up.
I'm only a couple of drawings missing to work something up, just need to find the time to visit NRM again. Actually, I think we need to organize another beer and curry night out in York