Brushs Laser Cutting and 3d Printing workbench
- Thread starter BrushType4
- Start date
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Whilst in the position to give orders I managed to get this made today.
It's Chelmsford Goods office, long gone now.
I drew the plans up a couple of weeks ago. I can already see quite a few modifications that will need doing for version 2. I've got the 1mm Rowmark layer to print out now, the door, window, barge boards etc. and will post pictures later. That will mostly complete it apart from the roof slates. I'll try and get the paper for those when I'm next in town.
The roof is removable and I will allow people to fully detail the interior as much as they would like or not.
This takes about 30 minutes to cut out all the parts so would retail about £30 complete. Would any one buy at that level? I noticed a similar building on the Skytrex website also for £30 and I'm sure this would go together easier from my experience of Skytrex resin buildings.
It's Chelmsford Goods office, long gone now.
I drew the plans up a couple of weeks ago. I can already see quite a few modifications that will need doing for version 2. I've got the 1mm Rowmark layer to print out now, the door, window, barge boards etc. and will post pictures later. That will mostly complete it apart from the roof slates. I'll try and get the paper for those when I'm next in town.
The roof is removable and I will allow people to fully detail the interior as much as they would like or not.
This takes about 30 minutes to cut out all the parts so would retail about £30 complete. Would any one buy at that level? I noticed a similar building on the Skytrex website also for £30 and I'm sure this would go together easier from my experience of Skytrex resin buildings.
ZiderHead
Western Thunderer
I would have guessed quicker than that -
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
I need to work with the settings until I've got them where I would like for each substrate.
I managed a short while this evening to try out a finger joint in 7mm.
The camera is cruel and is showing a shadow that you can't see normally.
I'm pretty pleased with it and its a lot better than I'd be able to accomplish with a mitre corner.
I'll glue together and put some paint on it later.
I managed a short while this evening to try out a finger joint in 7mm.
The camera is cruel and is showing a shadow that you can't see normally.
I'm pretty pleased with it and its a lot better than I'd be able to accomplish with a mitre corner.
I'll glue together and put some paint on it later.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
That looks very good Phil.
Rob
Rob
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
It does. Once the brickpaper goes on, you won't see that joint......
Only joking.
Any chance the laser can do a few spalled bricks? Older brickwork always has one or two.
Yes, you can easily with a craft knife pick out the brick faces. The MDF is a good substrate for that type of detail.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Been up and about this morning;
Slates for Heyside
They are actually darker than the colour the camera has captured.
Little weighbridge building is a full kit of parts now.
Door and window detail cut of card.
I've sent it off with John Birch this morning to be built and painted up for pictures later today! Thanks John
Slates for Heyside
They are actually darker than the colour the camera has captured.
Little weighbridge building is a full kit of parts now.
Door and window detail cut of card.
I've sent it off with John Birch this morning to be built and painted up for pictures later today! Thanks John
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
No, not me. I do have commission for some 4mm station valance that I hope to get posted off this week. Will post some pictures of that before I post off.
I think slates are pretty much straight forward. I've got a couple of sizes, Heyside specification and my own specification to Bangor countess size. Both in 7mm but can scale up or down, though I can't change the width of the kerf (cut) between the tiles.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Hello brush Type 4,
a small note on your slates, in the old days the roofing slates tended to start with a slate that was 1 1/2 X the width of the row above or below it. So if row one started with a slate that was 18" wide the one above it would be 27" wide and so on. This worked on gable ends, but if you came to a valley or a step in the roof the slates would have to be cut to suit.
In latter days with the new mass produced "slates" these are normally cut to half the width at the start of a row.
The other point is that the gaps look a bit wide between the slates, most of the time the gap was less that 1/4". But it's hard to judge on your photo as there is no scale to go from.
Glad that your getting some time to have a go with the new M/C.
The above points are only to try and help and in no way meant as a criticism of your work.
I hope that the burn is healing well.
OzzyO.
a small note on your slates, in the old days the roofing slates tended to start with a slate that was 1 1/2 X the width of the row above or below it. So if row one started with a slate that was 18" wide the one above it would be 27" wide and so on. This worked on gable ends, but if you came to a valley or a step in the roof the slates would have to be cut to suit.
In latter days with the new mass produced "slates" these are normally cut to half the width at the start of a row.
The other point is that the gaps look a bit wide between the slates, most of the time the gap was less that 1/4". But it's hard to judge on your photo as there is no scale to go from.
Glad that your getting some time to have a go with the new M/C.
The above points are only to try and help and in no way meant as a criticism of your work.
I hope that the burn is healing well.
OzzyO.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
No criticism taken.
I didn't know about the extra width slates, I had assumed that the slates would have been reduced in size to get the overlap required for each row. I hadn't realised that was a relatively modern practice. Do you know when this practice would have lasted until?
One of my concerns was the laser kerf. It is about 0.2 - 0.4mm (3/8in. - 3/4in. In scale) and I'm not sure yet if this gap will look bit wide when modelled. We will have to see.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
I think that the half slate came in just after the 2nd war, so a builder only had to order X number of one size slates and then cut them to size on the job.
But it came into full use when the manufactured "slates" became the norm. Around the 1950s ?
I think that's why you see a lot of new roofs that are on gable ends with the roof blown off, the half "slate" may only have one nail in it, where the full slate and the slate and a half would have had two or three in them.
If you could get the kerf size down to 0.2mm or less I think it would look a lot better. I don't know how you could do that though.
OzzyO.
But it came into full use when the manufactured "slates" became the norm. Around the 1950s ?
I think that's why you see a lot of new roofs that are on gable ends with the roof blown off, the half "slate" may only have one nail in it, where the full slate and the slate and a half would have had two or three in them.
If you could get the kerf size down to 0.2mm or less I think it would look a lot better. I don't know how you could do that though.
OzzyO.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Phil,
In addition to Ozzyo's comment above, traditional practice was to use taller (than "average") slates on the bottom rows and shorter slates against the ridge. Reason? the amount of water flowing over any row is greatest at the bottom so using taller slates reduces the number of rows on that part of the roof which carries the most rainwater. Whilst this feature is not followed much now the practice can be seen across the Costwolds... ok stone rather than slate, principal holds.
regards, Graham
In addition to Ozzyo's comment above, traditional practice was to use taller (than "average") slates on the bottom rows and shorter slates against the ridge. Reason? the amount of water flowing over any row is greatest at the bottom so using taller slates reduces the number of rows on that part of the roof which carries the most rainwater. Whilst this feature is not followed much now the practice can be seen across the Costwolds... ok stone rather than slate, principal holds.
regards, Graham
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Hmm maybe a bit more to think about on the roofing slates. It may just come done to what looks right over being exact. 
Version 3 of our weighbridge has come back with a bit of paint.
The card windows and door was well received but the fingers are a bit short on the joins so I need to lengthen them a bit to take into account the kerf.
So to version 4....
Version 3 of our weighbridge has come back with a bit of paint.
The card windows and door was well received but the fingers are a bit short on the joins so I need to lengthen them a bit to take into account the kerf.
So to version 4....
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Version 4 for such an exquisite prototype? I would not worry... if you go back through the late Cynric's thread on building a model of a brick building you will find that Cynric had several attempts to get an acceptable corner joint.
regards, Graham
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
No criticism taken.
I didn't know about the extra width slates, I had assumed that the slates would have been reduced in size to get the overlap required for each row. I hadn't realised that was a relatively modern practice. Do you know when this practice would have lasted until?
Our first house (built c1936) had tiles which followed the pattern of being wide and standard width at the gable ends, then they were cut in to the valleys. I know that the slates used on the house we live in now (built c1820) had a similar slate pattern but went to half width and full width in 1985 when it was re roofed.
Brian
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham, it is a learning curve.
So Version 4 rolled off my bench today and I've given it a spray of primer.
The bricks match well into the corners now and I'm sure a wash of mortar will hide the join almost completely. To give you an idea of the gaps, the brick height is just 1.75mm.