Brushs Laser Cutting and 3d Printing workbench

[lancer1027]

Yes please mate. although i will double check the radius etc and get back to you.

Rob

 

[lancer1027]

Hi Phil,

The radius to the outer edge is 1 3/4"

What size beading did you do?

Rob

 

[BrushType4]

The size was scaled down as its not full size, so I halved the width of the foot of the T and Y. It looked right so I went with it.

 

[BrushType4]

Looking at a small engine shed, I thought I'd share where I am with the windows. The rule is a 7mm scale so the window bars are more or less a scale half inch. I've used 1mm MDF and it's surprisingly robust.

 

[iploffy]

Impressive. You really are getting the hang of this arnt you. Have you ever thought of doing Bridge abutments and Bridge holes particularly the later newer types ie the ones with steel girders under them.

 

[BrushType4]

Impressive. You really are getting the hang of this arnt you. Have you ever thought of doing Bridge abutments and Bridge holes particularly the later newer types ie the ones with steel girders under them.

I've got a few ideas, have you got a picture of what you mean?

 

[adrian]

The rule is a 7mm scale so the window bars are more or less a scale half inch. I've used 1mm MDF and it's surprisingly robust.

That is very impressive work - I'm really surprised that the windows bars didn't warp. That they have remained straight and true is outstanding.

 

[BrushType4]

Not railway related but railway inspired, a 1/48th dolls house for my mum.

 

[40126]

Hi Phil

Watching your small engine shed with interest.

I want, in the future, PINZA Nameplate. & How about 40012 AUREOL ?, with crest ?



Steve

 

[Osgood]

Impressive. You really are getting the hang of this arnt you. Have you ever thought of doing Bridge abutments and Bridge holes particularly the later newer types ie the ones with steel girders under them.

If you built yourself a big tunnel, then Phil could make you a pair of bricked-up ends with a locked steel pedestrian door, and you could hide all your blue engines in - like a sort of BB Strategic Reserve?

 

[Osgood]

...How about 40012 AUREOL ?, with crest ?...

I hadn't realised until your pic of Aureol that these modern plates have virtually no radiused corners between flat and raised parts, so the fabricated lasered plates become very realistic - unlike the old kettle plates where the absence of radius is very noticeable

 

[mickoo]

I hadn't realised until your pic of Aureol that these modern plates have virtually no radiused corners between flat and raised parts, so the fabricated lasered plates become very realistic - unlike the old kettle plates where the absence of radius is very noticeable

Not so, just depends on who made the original master, steam name plates can have bevelled edges or sharp edges and some diesels also have bevelled edges though generally they are more sharper.

Sharp edges


Though this may be a more modern replica so may be sharper than the original.



This I believe is an original as are all the ones below.


Note Queen Mary is very sharp edged.

A traditional old school GWR with bevelled edges.


Now, the real hard part to find is whether the letter sides are base metal or painted, many are the same colour as the backing colour, slap a load of paint on then then just polish the letter face, but those where time has been taken will have the paint removed from the sides and polished too, that takes a lot of effort.

 

[Osgood]

Not so, just depends on who made the original master, steam name plates can have bevelled edges or sharp edges and some diesels also have bevelled edges though generally they are more sharper…..

Thanks Mick, that was an eye-opener! I was sure all steamer plates were radiused!

 

[mickoo]

Thanks Mick, that was an eye-opener! I was sure all steamer plates were radiused!

To be fair, most steam engine plates do have even a small radius and Aureol is exceptionally sharp, so it does stand at one end of the spectrum and is perhaps a little misleading But yes, as always, it pays to check reference material if you can.

As an aside, here's a snippet from Brighton works drawing W8185 (Battle of Britain nameplates) for another project I'm working on...slowly.


Note it gives a 3/16th radii to the edge of the plate but nothing on the letters, which matches the image above of 605 Sqn

 

[BrushType4]

My mum has started to add the slates and paint her new dolls house

 

[BrushType4]

Watching your small engine shed with interest.

Steve

Just for you Steve a picture or three of the engine shed.

GER Thaxted shed

Modular parts to extend


Buttress brick detail.

 

[Osgood]

I can't help but notice the introduction of a feature not seen before on your superb brickwork - the mortar appears to have been cut out in preparation for renewal by an over-enthusiastic builder's mate on a re-pointing chisel gun

To what extent this is a problem with a finished painted building I have no idea. Maybe none. Is the cause something to do with excessive speed of lasering causing over-run or oscillation of the laser head at end of travel? Is there an easy fix?

Other than that the job looks great!

 

[BrushType4]

I can't help but notice the introduction of a feature not seen before on your superb brickwork - the mortar appears to have been cut out in preparation for renewal by an over-enthusiastic builder's mate on a re-pointing chisel gun

To what extent this is a problem with a finished painted building I have no idea. Maybe none. Is the cause something to do with excessive speed of lasering causing over-run or oscillation of the laser head at end of travel? Is there an easy fix?

Other than that the job looks great!

View attachment 36677

It's a setting on the laser thankfully, but it doesn't show up when painted. The overrun is a feature to ensure all the lines join up, however here it was set too high. 0.01mm actually.

 

[ZiderHead]

Could that be avoided by the laser head running left<->right rather than up<->down ?

 

[Osgood]

That's good!

For us who know nothing about lasering - does the machine cut all the X axis and then all the Y axis, or does it do a blend of the lot as it travels over the workpiece?