7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

Reader mode
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Tony

I'm not entirely sure about the use of brass tube to hold the coupling rods together - in terms of the long-term wear. There's not much bearing surface for the inside laminations to act on, though I guess there will not be too much movement.

Can I remind you that you have a lathe, and you could have turned some nice nickel silver pins up!

Cheers

Richard
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard -
yes I did consider the wear factor, I was more worried about the strength of the outside laminations after they were opened up by .2mm. There will only be limited rotational movement if the 8F encounters any undulating track.. . The hole in the inner lamination was obviously opened up and presents a smooth surface to the brass bearing. But I get your point, my 4mm A1 after running at a good number of shows on Stoke Summit managed to cut through the Romford brass cranks. I suspect the holes in the nickle-silver coupling rods had not been cleaned up fully and there was still some cusp present..

You are right - must get that lathe fired up - when its a bit warmer!

Cheers

Tony
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
That nice Mr Griffin also does some superb lost wax cast nickle silver coupling rod knuckle pins...

Steph (wondering how much, if anything, of that sentance should have been hyphenated... :confused:)
 
daifly

daifly

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
That nice Mr Griffin also does some superb lost wax cast nickle silver coupling rod knuckle pins...

Steph (wondering how much, if anything, of that sentance should have been hyphenated... :confused:)
Click to expand...

Or spelled correctly - 'sentence', 'nickel'!
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I've been playing around with the injectors for a few days. Bending the exhaust steam pipe to shape was a pain, but now I have started to populate the chassis with the other pipes. There are plenty under there. It helps to have the 8F profile book as the pipe and rod drawing gives a good indication of where they all go.
I think I need to make up the running plate next as I wish to add the vacuum pipe whch snakes it's way froward, in and out of therames - more to follow...
wt_194.JPG
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
That's lovely Tony, nice job. Is this an exhaust injector? I only ask as if it's the same fitted to some black fives I could add it to my castings wish list. Next question is it an MOK one or from elsewhere?

Cheers Mick
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick -
the casting is an MOK one, but if I recall correctly one of the Heyside team used Laurie Griffin parts to detail his Sang Cheng Black 5. That would be my first port of call..

Regards

Tony
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I hope I'm not boring anyone, but it's one of the best kits I have built. There are minor errors, but these are mentioned in the instructions, presumably these are being re-worked whilst the kit is off the market. So here are the accumalating sub-assemblies after a work on Sunday and this evening:- Front platform, cab, and cab underfloor, which no one will ever see again! The tabs do help keep everything square and nickel-silver solders so nicely.
And a new piece of ex-window frame hardwood to work on, my previous one was 20 years old and with too many holes in it now.
Oh yes and sorry Mick - yes it is an exhaust steam injector...

I also blame this keyboard for any spelling mistakes, it is very clunky!


wt_199.JPG
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
adrian said:
Not at all - very interested to see how you get on with it as this kit is probably top of my wish list at the moment.
Click to expand...

Tony, Adrian,

I'm in the same boat, but will find it hard to justify on the Western Section of the Southern, even in 1950. Yes, I know they made it to Feltham, but only at night...

The kit's due to be re-released at Kettering, IIRC.

Steph
 
welshwizard

welshwizard

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
I hope I'm not boring anyone, but it's one of the best kits I have built. There are minor errors, but these are mentioned in the instructions, presumably these are being re-worked whilst the kit is off the market. So here are the accumalating sub-assemblies after a work on Sunday and this evening:- Front platform, cab, and cab underfloor, which no one will ever see again! The tabs do help keep everything square and nickel-silver solders so nicely.
And a new piece of ex-window frame hardwood to work on, my previous one was 20 years old and with too many holes in it now.
Oh yes and sorry Mick - yes it is an exhaust steam injector...

I also blame this keyboard for any spelling mistakes, it is very clunky!


View attachment 9369
Click to expand...
Tony.
I agree with you they are super kits and to my mind worth that bit extra cash, which in my experience is usually spent on extras to update all the others, i have two to weather in the workshop now. will enjoy your progress.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The cab makes up nicely, I've not done one with so many working parts! Working seats, doors and cinder guards. Laminating the overlays to the basic cab was done by tinning them lightly, then using safety flux to sweat them together from the outside with a hot iron - but no solder. I was able to carefully run around the edges to finish with flux and the tiniest amount of solder. Ive also added Hobbyhorse cinder guards, I'm pretty sure all 8Fs had them fitted. The cab doors are cleverly designed in two parts so that the hinges come together to form a hole for the hinge wire to pass through. Very tidy and discrete. I'm now embarking on the backhead.
I've never built any kit straight from the box, I always make mods to suit my tastes. You have to be realistic about what a kit manufacturer can reasonably do for the cost..

Dikitriki has kindly lent me his 8F to copy - usefull as it is not painted yet!

wt_208.JPG
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The backhead is completed, I made one or two changes as the manifold seemed to be for a RHD engine, so I cut that up with a piercing saw and re assembled. I also made the brackets for the gauges out of thin brass. The only omission is the steam brake, I couldn't find a casting for that, so I'll see if I can get one from Kettering. I omitted the sand gun as it was removed in the 50s I believe. The other addition made was the driver heat sheild, made up from scrap. The valve on the right was made up from offcuts of the manifold...
wt_228.JPG

The weighshaft bracket seemed a bit plain and I had some spare Griffin Ivatt ones, they are not quite correct, but look better than a plain N/S etching:-
wt_231.JPG

On to the smokebox and boiler next, proper engineering!
 
Reader mode
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top