Geoff Stratford told me that at some stage during the kit's ownership, the 7mm tool has been adjusted so that now the best spacers to use for finescale O are the ones marked 'EM' on the etch. Almost certainly not applicable to Tony's kit!
David
David
I will be watching with interest the maestro conduct this build.
Looking at the photo of the frames I cannot quite work out what is the thickness of the etch. I know that at various times the kit has used 28 thou nickel silver, which is nice for the frames but gives a serious problem for the valance jig which is on the same etch. In 28 thou material the etched fold lines are neither deep enough nor wide enough to make the 90 degree bend in the jig. I had a kit like this to build and ended up taking the valances off the jig and fitting to the running plate as is. It would be possible I think to deepen the fold line with a knife and broaden it with a file (or milling machine???) while the etch is flat.
I try to make sure that I specify 22thou n/s for new kits and the problem goes away.
David
Looking at the photo of the frames I cannot quite work out what is the thickness of the etch. I know that at various times the kit has used 28 thou nickel silver, which is nice for the frames but gives a serious problem for the valance jig which is on the same etch. In 28 thou material the etched fold lines are neither deep enough nor wide enough to make the 90 degree bend in the jig. I had a kit like this to build and ended up taking the valances off the jig and fitting to the running plate as is. It would be possible I think to deepen the fold line with a knife and broaden it with a file (or milling machine???) while the etch is flat.
I try to make sure that I specify 22thou n/s for new kits and the problem goes away.
David
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Hello David - they are 0.9mm thick.
I've been at home to Mickoo's Captain cock up:
Despite my best efforts, I still managed to put the wrong smokebox wrapper on - very neatly I might add. So out with the blowtorch to take it off and put the correct one on! The cradle is etched out of 0.9 nickel silver and there was not enough material in places on one side of the fold line to get it go over at all. So I just did the ends. I didn't use the etched beading in the kit, opting for soft half round jeweller wire. The mud hole doors have been cut out and blanked from behind. Ragstone clamps.
It's all just plonked together at the moment, I've also made an infill for the back of the saddle, but that has to allow for the valves. There are rather too many sections of half etch that have to fold, along and edge where they meet the full thickness brass. That never works well, I shall have to have a think about that.. Actually so far it has fitted together pretty well.
I've been at home to Mickoo's Captain cock up:
Despite my best efforts, I still managed to put the wrong smokebox wrapper on - very neatly I might add. So out with the blowtorch to take it off and put the correct one on! The cradle is etched out of 0.9 nickel silver and there was not enough material in places on one side of the fold line to get it go over at all. So I just did the ends. I didn't use the etched beading in the kit, opting for soft half round jeweller wire. The mud hole doors have been cut out and blanked from behind. Ragstone clamps.
It's all just plonked together at the moment, I've also made an infill for the back of the saddle, but that has to allow for the valves. There are rather too many sections of half etch that have to fold, along and edge where they meet the full thickness brass. That never works well, I shall have to have a think about that.. Actually so far it has fitted together pretty well.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I ended up separating out the front splasher development and attaching the top separately. The front wouldn't fold up tidily, so I replaced that with some brass channel that gives nice sharp edges. Even though the tops were full thickness, the brass is quite soft, so it formed easily.
There was some fettling to get all these various bits of frame and splashers to fit. I shall add detail next before putting the boiler on. Oh dear - look at that untidy soldering on the inside! There are some nice little etched brackets for the splashers that nicely cover the join.
There was some fettling to get all these various bits of frame and splashers to fit. I shall add detail next before putting the boiler on. Oh dear - look at that untidy soldering on the inside! There are some nice little etched brackets for the splashers that nicely cover the join.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Exactly where it should be
Looks good though.He's been tapping at my window with the 4F but I've managed to keep him at bay....just.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks Mick -
The front end wasn't looking quite right as the lower smokebox was too narrow, so I unsoldered the sides, teased ( bent ) it out and inserted two strips of 0.7mm strip behind the lower wrapper to beef it out. I've taken the picture before tidying so it can be seen. It fits snugly now. I've attached the cab to the boiler so that it is all one unit. This helps getting decent fit of the boiler to the cab front, and importantly you can ensure the bottom of the smokebox is in the same plane as the bottom of the cab. I need to do something about the smokebox door ring as that is not represented yet.
I used the etched boiler bands in the kit, they are exactly the same dimensions as Slaters phosphor bronze strip that I normally use.
Sorry it's a bit of a low light shot, I really should be doing something else this morning! Boiler and cab are not yet permanently attached...
The front end wasn't looking quite right as the lower smokebox was too narrow, so I unsoldered the sides, teased ( bent ) it out and inserted two strips of 0.7mm strip behind the lower wrapper to beef it out. I've taken the picture before tidying so it can be seen. It fits snugly now. I've attached the cab to the boiler so that it is all one unit. This helps getting decent fit of the boiler to the cab front, and importantly you can ensure the bottom of the smokebox is in the same plane as the bottom of the cab. I need to do something about the smokebox door ring as that is not represented yet.
I used the etched boiler bands in the kit, they are exactly the same dimensions as Slaters phosphor bronze strip that I normally use.
Sorry it's a bit of a low light shot, I really should be doing something else this morning! Boiler and cab are not yet permanently attached...
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Good morning Tony,
A question if I may?
What have you used for sandbox fillers - yours look round but the ones in the kit are oval.
Thanks in advance
A question if I may?
What have you used for sandbox fillers - yours look round but the ones in the kit are oval.
Thanks in advance
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Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony,
I have answered my own question - those on the GA are oval so I will go with that.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Good idea JB, I've not looked through my stash of old etches yet, I'm sure I have one that I can use.
Rob, yes, the sand fillers are castings from the spares box - no idea of the source. I thought they were round, so I'll have to check those photos more carefully!
Regards
Tony
Rob, yes, the sand fillers are castings from the spares box - no idea of the source. I thought they were round, so I'll have to check those photos more carefully!
Regards
Tony
dibateg
Western Thunderer
DLOS look away now! After a little break, I've been tinkering with odd bits of the J6, and I wanted to create the smokebox door ring. A hunt through the scrap etch drawer turned up one on a Sans Perail Standard 5 etch. It needed a mm taking off it, but how to do that consistently when it has a big hole etched in the middle - too small to go on the outside of the chuck jaws. So I came up with this Heath Robinson arrangement - clamping it between two old Peco wagon wheel on some 6BA studding! However - it worked...
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Hi Tony
I did a similar thing with the smokebox door/ring casting on my MOK Ivatt 2-6-0, though in my case, I just tightened an appropriately sized BA screw & nut through the centre dart hole, then clamped the back of the casting hard against the jaws of the chuck. I took very light cuts and checked frequently, to ensure I ended up with the required end diameter and I’m pleased to say it worked a treat.
Regards
Dan
I did a similar thing with the smokebox door/ring casting on my MOK Ivatt 2-6-0, though in my case, I just tightened an appropriately sized BA screw & nut through the centre dart hole, then clamped the back of the casting hard against the jaws of the chuck. I took very light cuts and checked frequently, to ensure I ended up with the required end diameter and I’m pleased to say it worked a treat.
Regards
Dan
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Nothing wrong with that, I frequently turn up thin plate for boiler formers, splasher fronts and smokebox doors. A screwed mandrel is good to turn a stack of discs for boiler formers but a brass tube soldered on the back is best for splashers and smokebox doors where the face needs profiling.
The lathe is just another tool, so if it does the job you are using it properly. Just remember to use it safely both for your self and the life of the machine.
Ian.
Isambarduk
Western Thunderer
As Ian says, the lathe is just a tool and if you've found a safe way that works, it's fine - and, for some of us, it gives a bounus of pleasure and satisfaction as well.
David
aka DLOS
dibateg
Western Thunderer
There seemed to be all sorts of lubricators fitted to the J6, the closest I could find was a Ragstone one with it's drive arm. As is the snifting valve, I need to put a plate under that.. Rob keeps finding me things to do.. The brass chimney was solid, so I drilled that out on the lathe. Washout covers are Finney7. The smokebox ring is now in place and since this picture I've drilled the chimney for the bolts.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Pretty well all the boiler work is complete now, I just have to tidy the handrails ( and represent that fitting that goes behind the handrail on the side of the smokebox ) and tackle that panel on the cab roof. Safety valves inset, the snifter panel was made from thin brass with 0.6mm wire to represent the bolts. There are several variations of ejector pipe, the position of mine was dictated by the washout covers. The chimney will be fixed on last of all, once it is sitting on it's wheels.
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Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Good morning Tony,
That snifter panel looks so much better than mine. I will definitely be revisiting it. I haven't made much progress this week I have had one of those weeks where everything I touch has gone pear shaped so I have left the modelling alone.
That snifter panel looks so much better than mine. I will definitely be revisiting it. I haven't made much progress this week I have had one of those weeks where everything I touch has gone pear shaped so I have left the modelling alone.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Good idea Rob - it happens to all of us, sometimes our fingers turn to all thumbs...
I've now carved the loco body off the frame jig, it was etched from some pretty hefty brass. Cab and boiler are now firmly attached. Details include little crank ( sanders? ), Griffin GNR lamp irons. and bolt heads on the cab roof. Buffers are from Gladiator, I shortened them slightly and reduced the diameter of the base. That was drilled and and I've added 0.8mm bolts from GHW-Modellbauversand ( Germany ), they look a bit too plain otherwise. Jaunty chimney not attached. Those rain guards were well tricky!
The frames needed some attention, I could not find any photos of the leading lightening gap, and in some photos there is a hint of it being blanked out. So that's what I've done. The ashpan was a solid fill in those rear frame gaps, so they were chain drilled and filed out. It looks better, more solid at the front and lighter at the back.
Front cover is in place, a flange was also added at the bottom.
I've now carved the loco body off the frame jig, it was etched from some pretty hefty brass. Cab and boiler are now firmly attached. Details include little crank ( sanders? ), Griffin GNR lamp irons. and bolt heads on the cab roof. Buffers are from Gladiator, I shortened them slightly and reduced the diameter of the base. That was drilled and and I've added 0.8mm bolts from GHW-Modellbauversand ( Germany ), they look a bit too plain otherwise. Jaunty chimney not attached. Those rain guards were well tricky!
The frames needed some attention, I could not find any photos of the leading lightening gap, and in some photos there is a hint of it being blanked out. So that's what I've done. The ashpan was a solid fill in those rear frame gaps, so they were chain drilled and filed out. It looks better, more solid at the front and lighter at the back.
Front cover is in place, a flange was also added at the bottom.