7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

[dibateg]

Thank you Kyoki!

I sorted that last bit of conduit to the top lamp. I either lost or used the 'T' casting for the conduit junction. So inspired by DLOS, I soldered some 0.4/0.8 tube in to a handrail knob. Filed the knob flat and drilled the shaft and tube 0.5mm. Not perfect, but close enough, then I was able to add in the conduit. There are that many pipes on this engine.


I couldn't find a live steam injector in my stock that was like the casting supplied, so in the end I went with the kit one. Its actually good quality material and i was able to solder the copper pipes with a cooler iron in to it with out any dramas. The exhaust one is Ragstone. The clevis screw will be replaced with a grub one on final assembly. I didn't like the mounting of the fall plate, it interfered with the body removal, so it sits on a wire goal post, the ends of which you can see poking through the floor above the drag beam.


Sadly, the news came through today that my dear friend DLOS ( isambarduk of this parish ) passed away this morning. I shall miss his friendship, with it's generosity, intelligence, humour and general good company. He truly inspired me to make better models.

 

[Dave Holt]

You're creating a very nice model there, Tony.
As you say, the electrical conduit runs just add to the work required. I can assure you, it's not much easier on the full sized thing (re-built MN, in my case. There's still one particularly awkward section of the AWS conduit we haven't managed to make).
Dave.

 

[Silverystreaks]

Really enjoying following the progress of this build Tony. I recently got hold of a completed and very well built ex Piercy B1 which saved me the bother of building one myself. The only issue I have with it is the size and shape of of the smoke box door an issue which also effects the V3 kit

While I left the original door in the place on the B1. Ive replaced it on the V3 build

I've put this down to the original designers decision to allow the door to be opened to view the contents of the internal detailing. A smaller door allows more room to fit the door strap hinges

Regards
Bob

 

[dibateg]

Thanks Dave, Bob -

The valve gear was the next job and the kit comes with some nicely cast pieces for it. I didn't use the crankpins in the kit, preferring to use a steel 10BA screw and using top hat bearings and brass tube for the big ends. The return cranks are Ragstone as the hole in the kit ones were larger than 10BA. The expansion link is also Ragstone, being a little sharper than the kit one as well. Valve gear pins are a force fit in the forks where possible. The eccentric roller bearing cap and pin was designed to be fitted solid to the return crank. I didn't like that, so I counterbored the outside of the eccentric so the head of a brass pin would fit in there and be soldered to the return crank The part within the eccentric was blackened so that I could solder the cap to the face of the boss, without ( hopefully ) it jamming up the pin.


The union links and lifting links remain to be fitted, I do one section of gear at a time, then test the movement and then on to the next piece. The combination lever was not really the right shape, coming out far too wide for the union link to line up. So that had to be reformed and shortened.


Hopefully DLOS would have approved.

Tony

 

[dibateg]

Well, thats 61264 pretty well done. The rest of the minor jobs will be finished off after painting. One thing I really did like was the cast balance weights - they fitted perfectly and that saved a lot of work filling and filing. She will be off to Paul Moore shortly to be painted.


I had an enjoyable day making up the backhead, assisted by some very good castings, but why are the clacks cast in white metal? The other cab details and seats will be fitted post painting. I did make the reverser work, but the weighshaft is stiff enough to position the gear in which direction and cut off I desire. I wasn't sure about the cab roof, but it will have to do, it's well detailed but lacks the crispness of brass one.

 

[LarryG]

I smiled at the missing bit of lining under the cabside step in the 15th April post. A prototype for everything, I've done it myself at times.

 

[mickoo]

I smiled at the missing bit of lining under the cabside step in the 15th April post. A prototype for everything, I've done it myself at times.

Not missing, just hidden

The lining is on the cab side but is obscured by the fillet that supports the step, I thought it odd at the time hence the detailed photo



The question is, should it also be replicated on the step fillet, probably not as that piece of metal work is technically not the cab side sheet. I suspect in some cases it was duplicated on the fillet but in other cases, remained on the cab side sheet only.

 

[LarryG]

I never knew that. Haymarket took the complete lining around the step. Scotland always was different.

 

[mickoo]

I never knew that. Haymarket took the complete lining around the step. Scotland always was different.

As you say, I suspect there were local arrangements. I seem to recall another ER class where the BR lining varied in much the same area due to the footplate curvature, it was a freight engine in BR black but that's all I can recall.

 

[dibateg]

Thanks Mick - and look at that mucky old pipe under the running plate!

 

[Dave Holt]

Yes, indeed. There are some wonderfully weathered models about, but I'm not sure any of us is brave enough to try to replicate the texture of the grot and grime that accumulates on the unloved bits of steam locos - under the running plate, between the frames and underneath, generally - myself included.
Dave.

 

[dibateg]

I finally got around to stripping the J6 for painting, one thing that bugged me was seeing the backs of the wheels underneath the boiler. They should be hidden by the top parts of the frames. It's a bit tricky resolving this as the frames are set narrower than they should be. So adding anything might add a 'double' frame look from the top. Anyway I made up these extensions and we'll see how they look once its all painted and re-assembled.

 

[Dave Holt]

Tony, I wholeheartedly agree about seeing the backs of wheels on models, so I hope your frame extensions achieve their purpose. I wonder if the top of the frames is below the top of the wheel flange, if the splashers might have a back to them, so the tops of the wheels?
Dave.

 

[dibateg]

I think it worked out Dave -
It will look a lot better once it is weathered, but I like locos, once they have their numbers and identity. The upper frame extensions are quite effective and hide the backs of the wheels.


The J6 grinds along in the background on it's way to completion. There is still more cab detail to add yet. Those wires are just temporarily tucked away at the moment.

 

[Dave Holt]

Very neat and purposeful looking. As you say, the frame extensions are just the job, as seen in the upper photo.
The sort of mundane, work-a-day loco that would be heavily weathered, I expect?
Dave.

 

[dibateg]

Gosh - I've been away from the workbench for nearly two months! I've been enjoying the good weather, doing work outside, and some on the layout.

The J6's didn't seem to be universally filthy Dave, they went quite early, so maybe there were still a few cleaners around...

On dull days I've been trying to round up outstanding jobs to clear the shelves. So there were some weathering jobs to go through. I don't know why, but I seem to be less tolerant of the paint fumes these days, so the window by the work bench has to be open.

The J6 is in the process of being toned down.


The Clayton has been dirtied up a little. It's a great model, but just looks a little plasticy when it is too clean. Brian Daniels checks the controls...


The excellent Dapol conflats and containers benefit from a little dirt. The door to door is a little late for my period, but I do have a memory of them and couldn't resist.


This Connoisseur bolster has been sitting on the shelves for months. I finally got around to the lettering - its not perfect, I've not got my eye back in yet...


Another excellent Dapol product - I am significantly short of brakevans, so these really help.

 

[dibateg]

Well, it's been a while!

I miss being at the workbench building locos, Basford North is absorbing a lot of time of course. But I wanted to start a new project so dug the J11 kit out of the cupboard - I fancy doing another vintage 0-6-0. It will do on days when it is so cold it takes an all out effort to warm up the railway room.

It will be fitted with inside working motion and the leading two axles will run in hornblocks with a rigid rear axle - a departure from my normal all axles floating method. I found this ABC motor in the motors box, I think that will do.


I use the Hobby Holiday jig to set up the hornblocks, so the coupling rods are made up first.


I find it necessary to keep the jig axles well oiled as any steel rusts like an Austin 1100 at the whiff of any flux.


We are on our way, it does take ages to tidy up those spring laminations... The hornblocks have all been thinned on the inside to clear inside motion.

 

[Dog Star]

Tony,

Where possible please list the suppliers of additional parts, for example:- horn guides and internal motion.

Thank you, Graham

 

[adrian]

Looks interesting

I found this ABC motor in the motors box, I think that will do.

How do you just "find" an ABC motor and gearbox in the motors box?

 

[Dave Holt]

Can I ask why you opted for a fixed rear axle on this loco if it is not your normal arrangement?
Dave.