Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
You only need to get one nice. I bet the inner courses are not quite so neat except for the ends.
Brushs Laser Cutting and 3d Printing workbench
- Thread starter BrushType4
- Start date
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
One of the reasons why it's very difficultto do a structural assessment on a masonry arch bridge - you have very little clue what's behind the course you can see.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
So thanks to Chris Pencarrow, I've had to redo the bricks under the arch, but at least its correct now. The glued up version will remain as is!
Anyway its all bridges just now and I'm working on a GWR bridge. It has the added complication of curved courses above the arch. A real hump back bridge I expect.
Outline drawing so far.
Anyway its all bridges just now and I'm working on a GWR bridge. It has the added complication of curved courses above the arch. A real hump back bridge I expect.
Outline drawing so far.
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Osgood
Western Thunderer
Before leaving the subject of skew bridges, this skew arch bridge is kind of fascinating and worth taking a look at:
Hereford Road Skew Bridge - Wikipedia
In fact it wouldn't create much of a problem to model using Phil's methods.
Hereford Road Skew Bridge - Wikipedia
In fact it wouldn't create much of a problem to model using Phil's methods.
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Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Now you definitely don't see ones like that modelled. Extreme arch brick laying!
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
To complement the Intentio Shipston-On-Stour Weighbridge Hut kit, a batch of Shipston-On-Stour Engine Sheds kits are going through the workshop and will be ready in for dispatch in 4-6 weeks.
Some history around this building can be found Here
This is a particularly nice engine shed for me because of its distinctive use of red and blue bricks. I'll build one of these over the next coming weeks.
Edit.
I just wanted to add that this building is only possible due to the research and truly beautiful technical drawings (that are works of art) by the late A.Haynes.
Some history around this building can be found Here
This is a particularly nice engine shed for me because of its distinctive use of red and blue bricks. I'll build one of these over the next coming weeks.
Edit.
I just wanted to add that this building is only possible due to the research and truly beautiful technical drawings (that are works of art) by the late A.Haynes.
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BrushType4
Western Thunderer
ok, parts have been cut and the test build of the Shipston-On-Stour shed begins...
The inside parts, laid out.
Just use white PVA glue, no need for expensive stuff.
Squeeze together. The parts are designed to be tight.
Glue all sides
Careful not to glue to base, the base can be used to help hold the parts square. Use elastic bands if you want to help pull the sides together tight.
Now is a good time to paint the inside. I’m going to move to the next stage without painting.
The inside parts, laid out.
Just use white PVA glue, no need for expensive stuff.
Squeeze together. The parts are designed to be tight.
Glue all sides
Careful not to glue to base, the base can be used to help hold the parts square. Use elastic bands if you want to help pull the sides together tight.
Now is a good time to paint the inside. I’m going to move to the next stage without painting.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
I forgot to say that I do a dry fit first to check for any errors.
Not many errors, and nothing that forced a recut. I updated the drawings and carried on.
Not many errors, and nothing that forced a recut. I updated the drawings and carried on.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
ideal for the modelling table!
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Exterior walls laid out.
Again, use plenty of white glue along both sides of the toothed edge.
Press together. This will be a tight fit and squeeze the glue out.
Wipe away. I just use my finger.
Once dry. Use a fine wet and dry to dress the join if required. This is important to make the corners perfect. If you miss this step, the toothed edge joins can be visible once painted.
Complete all round and again, use the base as a jig being careful not to glue together.
More soon.
Again, use plenty of white glue along both sides of the toothed edge.
Press together. This will be a tight fit and squeeze the glue out.
Wipe away. I just use my finger.
Once dry. Use a fine wet and dry to dress the join if required. This is important to make the corners perfect. If you miss this step, the toothed edge joins can be visible once painted.
Complete all round and again, use the base as a jig being careful not to glue together.
More soon.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Tonight, the back wall is fitted.
Again a good amount of glue is applied.
Then using the base as a jig, fit the wall.
Once it’s square, use clamps to hold in place until dry.
Again a good amount of glue is applied.
Then using the base as a jig, fit the wall.
Once it’s square, use clamps to hold in place until dry.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Today I’m building and fitting the windows.
First off, using any PVA glue, fix the frames together and clamp to ensure all is square.
Then fix windows to the wall pieces. There are engraved lines to use as a guide but care still needs to be taken to ensure all lines up. By the way I’m using card windows due to not painting the model and wanting a little contrast.
Then fix the sills. Normally, you’d paint these first. They are a press fit, but use glue as well to ensure nothing moves later.
Do all round and then relax.
More soon.
First off, using any PVA glue, fix the frames together and clamp to ensure all is square.
Then fix windows to the wall pieces. There are engraved lines to use as a guide but care still needs to be taken to ensure all lines up. By the way I’m using card windows due to not painting the model and wanting a little contrast.
Then fix the sills. Normally, you’d paint these first. They are a press fit, but use glue as well to ensure nothing moves later.
Do all round and then relax.
More soon.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Doh! I forgot to add tabs to the internal walls so they will need to be aligned by eye. Drawing updated.
So using the base as a jig, slot in the inner and outer walls.
Then add glue to the outward facing side only and slide in the window wall. The kit will be tabbed to ensure line up but I’ve done this by eye here.
Checking all round, remove walls from base and it’s then good to clamp up until the glue dries.
So using the base as a jig, slot in the inner and outer walls.
Then add glue to the outward facing side only and slide in the window wall. The kit will be tabbed to ensure line up but I’ve done this by eye here.
Checking all round, remove walls from base and it’s then good to clamp up until the glue dries.
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Adding a few details, the lower walling needs a a slight update on the brick spacing but I'll continue with test build and just change the drawing.
Vent above doors.
The laser cut door hinges are being fitted.
Next the long part of the hinge will be fitted to the doors.
The doors dry fitted and hang closed and open. All is well so I’ll glue up with PVA. I will use a drop of superglue to fix the Romark hinge to the building and the doors.
Vent above doors.
The laser cut door hinges are being fitted.
Next the long part of the hinge will be fitted to the doors.
The doors dry fitted and hang closed and open. All is well so I’ll glue up with PVA. I will use a drop of superglue to fix the Romark hinge to the building and the doors.
cbrailways
Western Thunderer
Excellent modelling. I'm thinking of having two side by side as a Goods Warehouse (with internal platform inbetween). What is the overall width and length please?
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
310mm long by 140mm wide.
cbrailways
Western Thunderer
Thanks. Will fit perfectly. I will obviously need to do a bit of surgery where the two internal walls will be......
BrushType4
Western Thunderer
Send me a message and I'm sure I might be able to help keep the scalpel work to a minimumThanks. Will fit perfectly. I will obviously need to do a bit of surgery where the two internal walls will be......