7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock

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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Too many other house and garden jobs - but as the weather is so crap, I've managed the odd hour to get the inside motion fitted. It's a bit scruffy, so I need to clean up some more. The weighshaft and the bearings are tapped so it will be held in place with grub screws so that the motion can be taken out. The arm to the reversing rod is between the bearing and the frames - that will go in later. I'm assuming forward gear is when the valve rod is using the lower part of the expansion link.. Some of it is quite representational, the casting that includes the valve guides is a lot more complex in real life. That horrible screw for the pony truck will go, I mounted the nut underneath the stretcher, so the screw will go in from underneath.
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Now the brake gear is fitted, the section under the motion is fixed in place with grub screws to allow the inside motion to be fitted/removed... I replaced some of the white metal brake fitting with home made fabrications. The cylinders are glued on, but the valve chest is held in place with screws... I like to be able to take things apart!
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I seem to be going to a lot of trouble for what will be just a working loco on the layout, but I enjoy the challenge of adding as much practical detail as I can..
 
J

J_F_S

Western Thunderer
Dave Holt said:
I'm pretty sure forward gear uses the top portion of the expansion links (Handbook for Locomotive Engine-men). Sorry.
Dave.
Click to expand...

Can't comment on this particular sub-class, but what you say Dave is true if the gear is "Open rods" (ie increasing lead towards mid-gear) but the opposite is true if it is "Crossed rods" (ie decreasing lead towards mid-gear). Almost all locos used open rods as increasing lead at higher speeds - ie at shorter cut-offs - has significant benefits. But then Gorton did not know a lot about valve gear design which is why (eg) the Black Pigs burnt so much coal!

Great work tony!

Best wishes,
Howard

PS just found the drawing ... yes the top rod is fore gear.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I finally got to fit out the frames with the inside and outside motion for 63859. Getting the coupling rods to work was a faff, I needed washers everywhere. The loco is now almost complete..just have to make it go now...
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The inside bit was relatively easy
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I just have to work out how to add pick ups now...

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Dave Holt

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Tony,
I fully sympathise, pickups are a pain.
How about wipers on top of the wheels, inside the splashers? You might have to attach some copper-clad mounting pads inside the top of the frames, hopefully not visible from the outside.
Just a minor point. I believe frames were only painted red in front of the firebox. (According to the official BR painting spec., the insides should be black, but I'm not sure the works complied with that.)
Dave.
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Stick the pickups on the tender?

I try to do that as well as on a few loco axles, but it’s fine to ignore the loco from a pick-up point of view

(unless you’re using fancy DCC controlled automatic signal stops which may lead to the loco spadding..)
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave - yes you are right. I don't know why I did it like that...

I alway fit tender pick ups as a matter of course, wipers inside the splashers is a good idea, I shall have a tinker with that later today...

Cheers
Tony
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Another Great Central tender and you'd think I'd know what i was doing after 3... albeit an ROD one. I still have to refer to drawings and photos.. I can never get those ribs in as etched, the bottom curve always has to be bent to fit the coping. The drawing says they are 8'6 3/8" to the outside of the sheets... so thats what they are. The kit provides for toolboxes on the 'shelf' I don't think many locos has those...
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mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
Another Great Central tender and you'd think I'd know what i was doing after 3... albeit an ROD one. I still have to refer to drawings and photos.. I can never get those ribs in as etched, the bottom curve always has to be bent to fit the coping. The drawing says they are 8'6 3/8" to the outside of the sheets... so thats what they are. The kit provides for toolboxes on the 'shelf' I don't think many locos has those...
View attachment 222960

View attachment 222961
Click to expand...
Most ribs are correct, the problem is there's not enough meat to form the correct flare and have the corners meet at the rear, so you end up with a smaller flare to make the corners meet and ribs that don't fit.
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Most ribs are correct, the problem is there's not enough meat to form the correct flare and have the corners meet at the rear, so you end up with a smaller flare to make the corners meet and ribs that don't fit.
Click to expand...
I know: I just need to find a designer who understands the problem and can draw up a sheet with new rear panel and/or flares so it all goes together. While he was at it, he might be able to change the scoop cover arrangement so it is correct. Wonder where I might find one?

Dave
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Genghis said:
I know: I just need to find a designer who understands the problem and can draw up a sheet with new rear panel and/or flares so it all goes together. While he was at it, he might be able to change the scoop cover arrangement so it is correct. Wonder where I might find one?

Dave
Click to expand...
It's in the pile to do :thumbs: :D

In my defense I had forgotten about it, I'll see if I can whizz something up in the next few days before the show. I'll refresh myself on the scoop cover, something else I've probably forgotten too ;)

I've got a DA ROD 05 here I can work from, I think the design is the same and you only need supplementary side sheet extensions so an easy win and fix.

Addendum, moved this aspect over to my thread to not clutter Tony's.
 
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
No problem guys.. always good to see discussion.

I decided to make the handbrake pull mechanism a bit more three dimensional. So how do you cut a 0.6mm slot in strip of brass? Mick would etch it - I resorted to more traditional methods:-
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Here it is all in place - and I've bent a step!
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It's a bit hidden, but I know it is there.....
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
dibateg said:
No problem guys.. always good to see discussion.

I decided to make the handbrake pull mechanism a bit more three dimensional. So how do you cut a 0.6mm slot in strip of brass? Mick would etch it - I resorted to more traditional methods:-
View attachment 223191

Here it is all in place - and I've bent a step!
View attachment 223192

It's a bit hidden, but I know it is there.....
Click to expand...
I probably would, but have 3D printed some that look okay if a bit fragile.

I'd rather do it your way in all honesty (cost and time) and a mill is getting higher up the tool priority list.

You can actually see these more than you think, they fill the gap between the steps nicely from certain angles.
 
dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
It was good to see people at Guildex - I didn't get as much time to chat as I would have liked as I was on Nafferton duty a lot of the time.

I wanted to more accurately represent the cross shaft mechanism, and Nick had kindly lent me some pictures. So I cut off the etched supports from the inner frames and knocked up some new supports - hey! I'm nearly scratchbuilding! I cut some blocks from square stock to represent the bearings. I saw David ( Mr Gladiator ) at Guildex and he was very helpful with some extra parts that I needed. The brass brake column for starters. He is always very supportive.
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There are enough pull rods in the kit to laminate them and make up the forked ends. Those whitemetal brake blocks were a trial, they are pinned and superglued.
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dibateg

dibateg

Western Thunderer
The etched holes for the buffers are too large, so I cut a suitable section of tube with a piercing saw. Then made a lengthways cut with the same tool. It then fits over the spigot and is a nice fit in da hole... A somewhat cruel enlargement!
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The tender is pretty well complete and I've polished up those buffer castings, they look better. Therear coal plate looked a bit incomplete, so I added flanges to the rear 'L' irons. I've a feeling there should be fire iron hooks on the inside of the left coal plate.
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